IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Photographic 

Sciences 
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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  HS80 

(716)  872-4503 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  c 
to  th( 


The  institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


/I    Coloured  covers/ 
^1    Couverture  de  couleur 


D 
D 
D 


Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommagde 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurie  et/ou  pelliculAe 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  g6ographiques  en  couleur 


□    Coloured  init  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

□    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

□    Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reiii  avec  d'autres  documents 


□ 


D 


D 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serrde  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intArieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouties 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte. 
mais,  iorsque  cela  Atait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  film6es. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  supplimentaires; 


L'Institut  a  microfilm*  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  d6tails 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mdthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


I — I   Coloured  pages/ 


D 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagies 

Pages  restored  and/o( 

Pages  restaur^es  et/ou  pellicul6es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxe( 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachet6es  ou  piqu6es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d6tach6es 


I — I  Pages  damaged/ 

I — I  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

p~l  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I      I  Pages  detached/ 


Thei 
possi 
of  thi 
filmii 


Origi 
begir 
the  li 
sion, 
othe^ 
first  I 
sion, 
or  Mil 


I      I    Showthrough/ 


Transparence 


□    Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Quality  in6gale  de  I'impression 

I      I    Includes  supplementary  material/ 


Comprend  du  materiel  supplAmentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Mition  disponible 


The  I 
shall 
TINl 
whic 

Map! 
diffe 
entii' 
begii 
right 
requ 
meth 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc..  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelurc, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  filmies  A  nouveau  de  fanon  d 
obtenir  fa  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  t9  luction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film*  au  taux  de  reduction  indiquA  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


30X 


y 


12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of : 

University  of  British  Columbia  Library 


L'exemplaire  film6  fut  reproduit  grdce  A  la 
gin^rositA  de: 

University  of  British  Columbia  Library 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  be^t  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Les  images  suivantas  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  netteti  de  l'exemplaire  film6,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
othfY  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  ^«»-  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED "),  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END  "), 
whichever  applies. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimde  sont  filmds  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmds  en  commenpant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  ie 
cas:  le  symbole  — ♦-  signifio  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symboie  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
film6s  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  ciich6,  il  est  filmd  A  partir 
de  Tangle  supdrieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


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!  . 


THE  LIBRARY 


THE  UNIVERSITY  OF 
BRITISH  COLUMBIA 

TheF.  W'.Uoway 

and  R.  L.  Reid 

Collection  of  Canad'uma 


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REIVISRD    RDn:"ION 


GUIDE 


To   THK 


YUKON  GOLD  FIELDS 


Will-RH  TIIHV  ARH  A\l)  HOW  TO  REACH  TllHM 


Bv    \'.    WILSON 


WITH  MAP  AND  ILLUSTRATIONS 


SEATTLE 
The  Caiakkt  Company 

I  Syr 


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Copyright,  1S95,  hv  V.  Wilson. 


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CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Where  and  What  to  Buy  for  an  Outfit i? 

List  of  Provisions i8 

The  Start 20 

Lake  Lindeman 20 

Whip-sawing 21 

Lake  Bennett   22 

Tagish  Lake 22 

Caribou  Crossing 23 

Windy  Arm 23 

Tagish  House 24 

Lake  Marsh 25 

Martins'  Nests 25 

Salmon 25 

Grand  Canyon 26 

White  Horse  Rapids 28 

Proposed  Tramway  Route 29 

Tahkeena  River 3" 

Lake  Labarge 3° 

Hootalinqua  River 3^ 

Big  Salmon  River ._ 3^ 

Little  Salmon  River 32 

Five  I'Mngers 32 

Rink  Rapids 33 

Old  Fort  Selkirk 33 

White  River 34 

Volcanic  Ash  Deposits 35 

Stewart  River 35 

Sixty  RUle  Creek 3^ 

Indian  i."reek 3" 

Klondyke  River 3^ 

Forty  Mile  Creek 37 

Miller  Creek 38 

Freighting 3° 

Glacier  Creek 39 

Prospecting  and  Mining 39 

Bedrock  Creek 4o 

Bald  Hills 4t> 

Forty  Mile  Post 4i 

Dogs 42 

Fort  Cudahy 43 

Coal  Creek 43 

Circle  City 44 


m 


CONTENTS 


itn 

If: 


Birch  Creek 45 

Preacher  Creek 46 

Yukon  Flats 46 

Fossils 47 

Lower  Ramparts 48 

Muklukyeto  City 48 

Koyukuk  River 49 

Lower  River  Natives 49 

St.  Michael's  Island 50 

Navigation  on  the  Yukon 51 

Taku  Route    52 

White  Pass 52 

Chilkoot  Pass 53 

Chilkat  Pass 53 

Possible  Railroad  Route 54 

Resources 54 

Copper 54 

Iron  and  Coal 55 

Platinum 55 

Game 55 

Moose 55 

Caribou 55 

Barren  Land  Caribou 56 

Arctic  Reindeer 56 

Bear 57 

Mountain  Goat 57 

Mountain  Sheep 58 

Lynx  58 

Wolves  58 

Wolverine 58 

Fish 59 

Discovery  of  Gold  in  the  Yukon  Basin 59 

Source  of  the  Yukon 61 

Climate 62 

Winter  Clothes 62 

New  Discovery  at  Cook  Inlet 63 

The  Yukon  River 64 

Indians  Along  the  Yukon 65 

Purchase  of  Alaska 67 

Area  and  Extent 68 

Juneau 68 

Douglass  Island 70 

Dawson  City 70 

Gold  Dust   70 

Sale  on  Bedrock 71 

Miners'  Laws 71 

Mining  Regulations  of  the  Yukon 73 

Nature  and  Size  of  Claims 73 

• 


JH  ! 


ii^l 


I 


CONTENTS 


45 
46 

46 
47 
48 
48 

49 

49 

50 

51 

52 

52 

53 

53 

54 

54 

54 

55 
55 
55 
55 
55 
56 
56 
57 
57 
58 
58 
58 
58 
59 
59 
61 
62 
62 

63 
64 
65 
67 
68 
68 
70 
70 
70 
71 
71 
73 
73 


Affidavit  of  Application — Form  H 77 

IC  €1  II  II  J 77 

II         1-1  II  «'    J 78 

Ogilvie's  Reports— Extracts  of 79 

Latest  Route 83 

White  Pass  opened  up. 83 

Chilkoot  Route 84 

Stickeen  Route 85 

Other  Routes 85 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

FACING   PAGE 

Dawson  City ^ 

Portage  Head  of  Lake  Bennett 3 

Midnight  at  Lake  Bennett 8 

Boat  Building ^8 

Camp  Life ^8 

Whip-sawing ^8 

Map 20 

Lake  Labarge 24 

Lake  Lindeman 24 

Wrecked  at  Windy  Arm 24 

Looking  Down  Grand  Canyon 26 

White  Horse  Rapids 28 

Shooting  Grand  Canyon 28 

Head  of  White  Horse  Rapids 28 

Five  F'inger  Rapids  of  the  Yukon 32 

Sixty  Mile  'Post 36 

Towin.              \  .»  .-uugh  Forty  Mile  Creek  Canyon 38 

Forty  Mile  Post 42 

First  Supplies  at  Circle  City 44 

Fort  Cudahy 46 

Steamer  P.  B.  Weare 5° 

Frank  Cromier's  Claim,  Miller  Creek 52 

Steamer  Arctic 56 

Group  of  Miners,  Forty  Mile  Creek ' 60 

Group  of  Miners,  Ruby  Sands  Mine 62 

Glacier.  Head  of  Litauya  Bay  at  the  Right 64 

Scho       r  Sea  Gull,  and  Fairweather  Alps  in  Distance 68 

City  of  Juneau 7° 


TABLE  OF  DISTANCES. 


The  following  distances  from  Juneau  are  taken  from  Ogilvie's  survey  as 
far  as  it  has  been  made;  the  others  are  according  to  the  best  authorities  to 
be  found. 

MII,BS 

Haines  Mission .  80 

Tai  ya 100 

Head  of  Canoe  Navigation,  Taiya  River 106 

Summit  Chilkoot  Pass 114^4^ 

Head  of  Lake  Lindeman , 123^ 

Foot  of  Lake  Lindeman ...      127J4 

Head  of  Lake  Bennett  128^ 

Foot  of  Lake  Bennett I53^ 

Caribou  Crossing 156^ 

Foot  of  Tagish  Lake I73/^ 

Head  of  Lake  Marsh 178^ 

Foot  of  Lake  Marsh I97X 

Head  of  Canyon 223 

Foot  of  Canyon 223^^ 

Head  of  White  Horse  Rapids 225^ 

Tahkeena  River 240 

Head  of  Lake  Labarge   252 

Foot  of  Lake  Labarge 284 

Hootalinqua  River 316 

Big  Salmon  River 349 

Little  Salmon  River SSsJ/i 

Five  Finger  Rapids 444 

Rink  Rapids 450 

Pelly  River 503^2' 

White  River 599 ,'4 

Stew^art  River 609 

Sixty  Mile  Post. 629 

Fort  Reliance 682>^ 

Forty  Mile  Post    728 

Fort  Cudahy 728^ 

Moose  Creek  on  Forty  Mile  River 754 

Head  of  Miller  Creek 788 


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PREFACE. 


The  much  felt  want  of  definite  information  concerning  the  Yu- 
kon gold  fields  and  how  to  reach  them,  and  the  almost  total  ab- 
sence of  anything  like  a  good  guide  book  to  that  region,  at  a  time 
when  the  eyes  of  nearly  the  entire  mining  world  are  turned  in  that 
direction,  have  prompted  the  author  to  place  before  the  public 
the  many  facts  he  has  learned  by  personal  observation  and  dili- 
gent inquiry  of  those  who  have  spent  many  years  in  that  region. 
No  attempt  has  been  made  to  put  forth  a  literary  production.  A 
statement  of  facts  in  simple  language  has  been  followed.  It  has 
been  left  to  some  tourist  of  the  future  to  give  to  the  public  a  vol- 
ume embellished  with  rhetorical  figure  and  lofty  description. 
This  volume  is  intended  for  a  hand-book  to  be  used  by  everyone  — 
tourist,  pro.spector  and  miner  —  for  ready  reference,  telling  how  to 
get  into  the  Yukon  basin,  how  to  get  out  of  it,  and  what  has  been 
found  there. 

It  is  not  only  the  purpose  of  the.se  pages  to  give  such  informa- 
tion as  will  prove  of  benefit  to  those  who  may  undertake  the  trip, 
but  also  to  di.scourage  those  unfit  to  encounter  the  hardships,  and 
correctly  to  inform  those  who  have  been  led  to  believe  that  nug- 
gets could  be  gathered  from  the  beds  of  streams  like  pebbles. 

The  illustrations  are  from  photographs,  and  are  the  only  ones 
ever  saccessfull}'  taken  of  the  upper  river  and  mines,  while  the 
map  is  drawn  from  personal  observation  and  information  given  by 
miners. 

In  concluding  these  prefatory  remarks  I  wish  to  acknowledge 
with  gratitude  my  indebtedness  to  Billy  Lloyd,  Frank  Knight, 
Frank  Densmore,  Mr.  Cornell  and  others,  as  well  as  to  Pither,  an 
Indian,  who  has  traveled  exten.sively  through  the  Yukon  basin, 

V.  W. 


MEMOIR. 


Soon  after  the  notes  from  which  this  work  was  compiled  were 
handed  to  the  publisher,  the  author  was  tp.ken  seriou.sly  ill,  and 
just  at  the  hour  the  book  comes  from  the  press  there  comes  also 
the  sad  news  of  the  author's  death.     "Strange,  indeed,''  one 


\f>-^\ 


il' 


PREPACK 

would  say,  "  that  a  man  of  such  a  strong  phj'sique,  possessed  of 
an  iron  will,  should  give  way  to  the  ravages  of  fever."  But  not 
so  strange  to  one  who  knew  the  suffering  and  hardships  encoun- 
tered and  endured  by  Mr.  Wilson  during  his  voyage  of  explora- 
tion the  past  year  in  Alaska.  I  met  him  on  the  morning  of  June 
15th  at  the  head  waters  of  the  Yukon  river,  and  was  with  him 
during  the  greater  part  of  the  four  thousand  mile  journey.  While 
scarcely  thirty  years  of  age,  he  was  a  natural  explorer,  and  always 
seemed  as  much  at  home  with  the  Indians  among  rocky  fastnes.ses 
of  the  North  as  he  would  he  in  the  midst  of  the  aesthetic  sur- 
roundings of  his  father's  home  in  Maine.  He  could  transform 
hardships  into  pleasures;  in  the  presence  of  danger,  always  calm 
and  deliberate,  a  keen  observer,  joyful  spirited,  never  littering  a 
murmur  about  the  heavy  pack  upon  his  back  while  making  long 
journeys  across  the  mountains,  but  would  revel  in  the  beauty  and 
grandeur  of  his  surroundings.  He  was  a  man  of  fine  abilities,  a 
good  conversationalist  with  pleasing  manner,  a  strong  personality, 
very  kind  and  genial  under  all  circumstances,  making  friends  _ 
wherever  he  went. 

His  life  has  been  sacrificed  to  gain  and  give  to  the  world  the 
valuable  information  contained  in  the  following  pages,  and  in  this 
sense  it  has  been  sacrificed  for  others.  Having  travelled  the  same 
route  as  the  author,  I  can  confidently  s?y  that  this  guide  will 
prove  invaluable  to  anyone  going  to  Alaska,  and  in  the  memory 
of  those  who  follow  its  directions  will  be  erected  an  enduring 
monument  to  him  who  died  in  the  hope  of  a  life  everlasting  be- 
yond the  confines  of  mortality. 

J.  O.  H  EST  WOOD. 

Seattle,  January  5,  1895. 


'■'  1 


INTRODUCTORY. 


The  rush  to  the  Yukon  last  spring  saw  many  prospectors  in  the 
field  with  the  most  promising  results.  Many  new  creeks  were 
discovered  of  great  extent  and  richness,  and  all  the  old  mines 
yielded  better  results  than  ever  before. 

No  creek  in  the  entire  basin  whicli  was  prospected  with  any 
degree  of  precision  failed  to  show  at  least  a  color. 

The  estimated  amount  of  gold  taken  out  of  the  country  last 
year  has  been  placed  as  high  as  one  million  dollars,  and  while  this 
is  highly  improbable,  the  many  who  have  returned  with  amounts 
varying  from  five  to  thirty-five  thousand  dollars  prove  beyond  a 
doubt  that  the  country  is  one  of  great  richness. 

With  these  facts  fresh  before  the  public,  at  a  tini  when  the 
brawn  and  muscle  of  our  great  nation  is  almost  at  a  standstill,  it 
may  reasonably  be  expected  that  many  will  turn  their  attention  in 
this  direction,  and  it  is  therefore  the  purpo.se  of  these  pages  to 
give  such  information  as  will  be  of  benefit  to  those  who  undertake 
the  trip. 

*The  Chilkoot  pass  is  the  only  route  used  to  any  extent  at 
pre.sent  by  the  miners  and  is  the  shortest  portage  from  .salt  water 
to  the  navigable  waters  of  the  Yukon.  This  route  leads  over  the 
Chilkoot  pass  down  the  lakes  to  Lewis  river,  thence  down  the  Yu- 
kon to  the  mines  at  different  points  on  that  river. 

The  trip  is  one  of  difficulties  which  will  tax  the  endurance  and 
nerve  of  the  most  hardy,  and  only  such  men  can  reasonably  expect 
to  .succeed,  for  only  with  the  most  incessant  toil,  such  as  packing 
provisions  over  pathless  mountains,  towing  a  heavy  boat  against 
a  five  to  an  eight-mile  current  over  battered  boulders,  digging  in 
the  bottomless  frost,  sleeping  where  night  overtakes,  fighting  gnats 
and  rao.squitoes  by  the  million,  shooting  seething  canyons  and 
rapids,  and  enduring  for  .seven  long  months  a  relentless  cold  which 
never  rises  above  zero  and  frequently  falls  to  80  below,  any  man 
phy.sically  endowed  to  overcome  these  obstacles,  who  will  go  there 
for  a  few  years,  can,  by  strict  attention  to  business,  make  a  good 
.stake,  with  the  possibilities  of  a  fortune. 

The  climate  is  one  unequalled  for  health,  the  .summer  months 

♦  See  later  in  formation  in  regard  to  other  passe.s. 


INTRODUCTORY 


are  delightful,  game  is  plenty  in  season,  and  the  winters,  while 
cold,  are  healthy  and  help  to  recuperate  the  lost  vitality  from  the 
incessant  toil  of  summer. 

The  next  few  years  will  see  wagon  roads  and  trails  through  the 
Coast  range,  steamers  on  the  lakes  and  upper  river,  and  the  whole 
of  the  vast  upper  country  will  be  made  accessible  to  the  miner. 
Then  hundreds  will  flock  there,  and  ten  years  will  .see  a  population 
of  one  hundred  thousand  people  in  the  Yukon  basin. 

Then  its  vast  richness  will  become  the  by-word  of  the  world, 
for  it  is  a  poor  man's  country —  nature  has  stored  her  treasure  in 
a  safe  of  ice  with  a  time-lock  which  only  opens  in  the  long  sunny 
day.s  of  sunnner. 

Hydraulic  mining  is  made  impossible,  owing  to  lack  of  water, 
for  only  the  glacial  drip  of  the  hills  is  accessible  in  the  gulches 
which  carry  the  most  gold.  This  will  make  its  period  of  produc- 
tivene.ss  much  greater,  while  capital  will  find  lucrative  investments 
in  the  rich  lodes  of  gold,  iron,  coal  and  copper,  and  in  the  bars  of 
the  rivers  which  have  become  no  longer  useful  to  the  pan  or  cradle 
in  the  hands  of  the  miner.  All  along  the  whole  route,  from  the 
Coast  range  down  to  old  Fort  Yukon,  the  close  observer  can  see 
vast  treasures  in  the  mountains  — coal,  marble  and  copper  —  only 
waiting  for  the  country  to  develop  to  such  an  extent  a»  to  bring 
them  within  reach  of  the  outside  world. 

The  country  south  of  the  Pelly  river  is  quite  well  timbered.  It 
is  a  good  grazing  country,  all  the  hardy  vegetables  grow  well,  and 
even  wheat  ripens. 

It  is  a  fine  game  and  fish  country.  Bear  of  several  varieties, 
moose,  caribou,  wolves  ami  many  tur-bearing  animals  abound.  It 
is  doubtless  the  greatest  country  in  the  world  for  the  silver  and 
the  black  fox.  The  rivers  and  lakes  are  teeming  with  many 
varieties  of  fish,  while  grou.se  and  rabl)its  are  numerous  along  the 
shore.  Water  foul  of  many  kinds  are  plentiful  and  their  long  so- 
journing in  these  inland  waters  gives  to  their  flesh  a  flavor  which, 
although  high  and  gamey,  never  acquires  that  repulsive  fishy 
taste  so  universal  to  the  fowls  of  this  coast. 

When  once  this  country  is  made  accessible  from  the  Sound 
points  by  proper  transportation  facilities  it  can  be  reached  in  ten 
days.     Then  it  will  become  one  of  the  greatest  tourist  countries  of 
the  world,  for  where  is  grander  .scenery,  a  more  beautiful  climate,  or  ' 
a  more  favored  spot  than  is  this  lake  country  during  three  months 


INTRODUCTORY • 

in  summer?  The  shores  are  bordered  by  strips  of  green  meadow, 
bedecked  with  wild  roses  and  an  endless  variety  of  flowers  of  the 
most  delicate  tints,  while  terraced,  open  and  timbered  slopes 
stretch  away  to  high  mountains,  which  in  turn  are  backed  by 
snow-capped  peaks. 

During  the  whole  summer  scarcely  any  rain  falls,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  an  occasional  thunder-shower;  the  sun  is  seldom  lost 
sight  of  except  for  a  brief  period  at  night. 

Within  three  years  it  will  be  po.ssible  to  leave  vSeattle  in  spring, 
work  in  the  mines  all  summer  and  return  in  the  fall.  Then  the 
importance  of  these  vast  gold  fields  will  come  to  be  realized,  and 
in  the  near  future  the  word  Yukon  will  a.s.sociate  itself  so  closely 
with  that  of  gold,  that  its  mere  mention  will  convey  impressions 
of  an  Eldorado,  rivaling  that  of  fable. 


THE  GUIDE  BOOK 


TO 


THE   GOLD-FIELDS   OF  THE  YUKON 


WHKRE  AND  WHAT  TO  BUY  FOR  AN  OUTFIT. 


In  deciding  to  make  the  trip,  the  greatest  considerations  areliow 
long  it  is  necessary  to  stay,  how  much  money  is  needed  and  the 
results  to  be  attained.  The  answer  to  the  last  question,  here  as 
in  all  other  countries,  depends  entirely  on  the  man. 

The  country  is  of  such  extent  and  richness  that  the  possibilities 
are  unlimited,  and  a  good  rustler  cannot  tail  to  make  a  good 
round  sum  if  he  will  stay  at  least  three  years.  Little  can  be 
accomplished  in  less  time  than  that,  unless  one  is  indeed  lucky. 

A  good  part  of  the  first  season  will  be  consumed  in  reaching 
the  mines  ;  then,  if  a  claim  is  located,  only  the  preliminary  work 
can  be  done.  The  second  year  it  can  be  well  opened  up  and  in 
all  probability  some  money  made.  The  third  year  usually  gives 
the  promised  results.  I  would  advise  no  man  to  start  with  le.ss 
than  four  hundred  dollars,  as  the  expense  of  reaching  the  mines 
is  considerable  and  the  companies  doing  business  there  refuse 
absolutely  to  give  credit,  as  they  can  sell  all  their  goods  for  ready 
ca.sh.  Some  men  who  wanted  to  remain  w  _  obliged  to  leave 
the  country  la.st  year  on  that  account. 

The  companies  doing  business  there  have  in  the  past  helped 

such  men  out  of  the  country,   bur  in  the  future,  owing  to  this 
1 


18 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


fact  becoming  generally  known,  they  will  refuse  to  give  any 
assistance  whatever.  This  decision,  I  understand,  they  will  ad- 
vertise extensively  this  coming  spring. 

Having  decided  to  make  the  trip  the  outfit  needed  for  the  long 
journey  down  the  river  to  the  mines  is  of  the  greatest  considera- 
tion. The  actual  necessities  for  the  trip  are  given  in  a  list  below. 
The  supply  of  clothes  should  be  governed  by  one's  needs,  taste 
and  purse.  It  is  also  desirable  to  take  along  a  .small,  well-filled 
medicine  chest. 

The  outfit  proper  can  be  bought  to  better  advantage  in  Seattle 
than  elsewhere,  for  the  large  outfitting  establishments  there  have 
learned  from  long  experience  what  is  most  needed  and  their  prices 
will  compare  favorably  with  prices  on  the  Pacific  Coast.  One  may 
be  sure  of  getting  just  what  is  needed  without  any  extra  weight, 
which  is  of  the  greatest  importance,  as  many  hard  portages  are  to 
be  encountered  on  the  trip. 

LIST   OP   PROVISIONS    FOR   ONE    MAN   ONE    MONTH: 


Twenty  pounds  of  flour  with 

baking  powder 
12  pounds  of  bacon 
6  pounds  of  beans 
5  pounds  of  dried  fruit 

3  pounds  of  dessicated  vegetables 

4  pounds  of  butter 

5  pounds  of  sugar 

4  cans  of  milk 

1  pound  of  tea 

3  pounds  of  coffee 

2  pounds  of  salt 

5  pounds  of  corn  nieal 
Pepper 

Matches  ' 

Mustard 

Cooking  utensils  and  dishes 

1  frying  pan 

1  water  kettle 
Tent 
Yukon  stove 

2  pair  good  blankets 
I  rubber  blanket 


1  bean  pot 

2  plates 

I  drinking  cup 

I  tea  pot 

I  knife  and  fork 

I  large  and  I  small  cooking  pan 

TOOI.S   FOR    BO.\T   BUILDING. 

I  jack  plane 

r  whip  saw 

I  hand  saw 

I  rip  saw 

I  draw  knife 

I  ax 

I  hatchet 

I  pocket  rule 

6  pounds  of  assorted  nails 

3  pounds  of  oakum 
5  pounds  of  pitch 
50  feet  of  )4  rope 
Mosquito  netting 

1  pair  crag-proof  hip  boots 

Snow-glasses 

Medicines 


1^1       !! 


The  above  is  the  list  of  provisions  general  y  taken  by  miners, 
and  is  sufficient  for  one  man  for  one  month.    The  length  of  the  trip, 


iS 


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1 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


19 


will  be  regulated  by  the  season  of  starting  and  the  amount  neces- 
sar3'  tor  the  entire  trip  easil}'  ascertained. 

That  is,  if  parties  desire  to  do  their  own  transporting  over  the 
divide  they  should  start  not  later  than  the  first  of  April  —  better 
by  the  middle  of  March  —  then  thej'  cm  sleigh  their  outfit  over 
the  suniniit  and  down  the  lakes  to  where  suitable  boat  timber  can 
be  found.  If  the  start  is  made  by  the  middle  of  March,  the  whole 
distance  of  the  lakes  can  be  accomplished  by  sleigh,  a  beat  built 
and  the  start  made  down  the  river  as  soon  as  it  breaks  up,  A^^hich 
is  much  earlier  Jian  on  the  lakes.  By  doing  this  the  mines  may 
be  reached  four  weeks  earlier  than  by  building  the  boat  at  the 
head  of  the  lakes  and  waiting  for  the  ice  to  leave. 

The  trip  down  the  lakes  by  sleigh  is  usually  exciting;  a  large 
sail  is  fixed  to  the  sleigh  and  long  distances  are  made  in  a  .single 
day  over  the  hard  snow  and  ice.  If  the  start  is  made  later  than 
the  la.st  of  April  it  is  customary  to  hire  the  packing  done  b}'  the 
Indians,  who  pack  to  Lake  Lindenian,  a  distance  of  twenty-four 
miles,  for  fourteen  dollar.^  per  hundred.  There  is  no  timber  on 
the  lake  suitable  for  boat  building,  and  a  raft  will  have  to  be  made 
to  take  the  outfit  to  where  better  timber  can  be  found. 

A  good  rifle  of  large  calibre  should  be  taken  along,  as  large 
game  is  plenty.  Also  a  trout  line  for  grayling,  which  can  be 
caught  with  a  small  black  Ry  at  the  mouth  of  small  streams  and 
at  the  foot  of  rapids  all  along  below  the  lakes.  A  good  pair  of 
snow  glasses  should  not  be  overlooked,  as  attacks  of  snow  blind- 
ness are  only  thus  prevented  in  crossing  the  stimmit,  and  nothing 
proves  more  painful.  In  several  cases  it  has  actually  driven 
miners  insane,  and  often  delays  those  not  thus  provided  for  days 
and  even  weeks.  E.  Valentine,  of  Juneau,  keeps  a  special  gla.ss, 
al  a  small  cost,  adapted  to  the  trip.  It  is  ctLStomary  to  take  min- 
ing tools  from  Juneau  for  pro.specting  along  the  trip  or  for  any 
stop  that  might  be  made  on  the  way  down  the  river. 

One  man  should  not  attempt  to  make  the  trip  alone,  and  where 
four  or  five  go  in  one  party  one  tent,  stove  and  set  of  tools  will  do 
for  all,  thus  making  the  outfit  of  each  lighter  and  also  lessening 
the  cost.  One  of  each  party  should  have  some  knowledge  of  boat 
building;  the  boats  mo.stly  in  use  are  the  long,  double-end  bateau, 
but  for  a  party  of  five  or  six  a  scow  of  good  depth  will  be  found 
convenient  and  roomy,  will  rnn  bad  water  and  is  easily  built. 


'f 


20 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


THE  START. 


&i,V. 

'^^i 

g 

i 

OVER  THE  SUMMIT  AND   DOWN   LAKE   UNDEMAN. 

At  *Taiya  the  actual  journey  begins.  If  the  trip  is  made  by 
sleighs  the  parties  usually  do  their  own  work,  but  if  the  snow  and 
ice  have  left  the  canyon  then  the  outfit  will  have  to  be  packed  to 
Lake  Lindenian.  Indian  packers  can  be  found  without  much 
difficulty  to  pack  for  the  regulation  price,  fourteen  dollars  per 
hundred  pounds,  the  distance  being  about  twenty-four  miles. 
Canoes  can  be  used  for  some  six  miles  up  the  Taiya  river  to  the 
canyon  where  the  trail  leads  up  the  rugged  sides  along  a  timbered 
shelf  overlooking  the  canyon  until  Sheep  Camp  is  reached;  this  is 
practically  the  timber  line,  and  from  here  to  the  summit  the  trail 
leads  up  a  narrow  and  precipitous  defile.  The  summit  is  fifteen, 
miles  distant  and  thirty-five  hundred  feet  above  tide  water. 

Many  glaciers  are  passed  in  the  fifteen  miles.  After  leaving 
the  summit  there  is  a  sheer  descent  of  five  hundred  feet  to  the  bed 
of  Crater  lake.  This  lake  retains  snow  and  ice  all  the  year  and 
undoubtedly  occupies  an  extinct  crater.  The  water  has  cut  a 
small  canyon  down  the  mountain  side,  which  should  be  followed 
to  Lake  Linderaan. 

LAKE  LINDEMAN. 


THE   FIRST  NAVIGABLE  WATERS    RUNNING   INTO  THE  YUKON. 

Around  the  lake  the  timber  is  nearly  all  burned  off,  there  being 
none  suitable  for  boat  building.  Here  a  raft  should  be  made,  with 
a  deck  of  small  poles  some  foot  or  more  above  the  body,  thus  pre- 
venting the  waves  from  wetting  the  outfit,  which  should  be  pro- 
tected by  water-tight  sacks,  either  of  oilskin  or  canvas.  Tlie  dried 
timber  makes  good  material  for  rafts,  but  as  it  is  small  a  great 
deal  will  necessarily  have  to  be  u&ed.  Lake  Lindenian  occupies  the 
terminus  of  the  same  valley  occupied  by  Lake  Bennett,  and  is  sepa- 
rated from  the  latter  by  a  short  portage  of  three-fourths  of  a  mile, 
the  fall  in  thisi  distance  beir;g  about  twenty  feet.  The  stream  con- 
necting the  two  is  crooked  and  very  rocky,  making  it  highly  un- 
.safe  for  a  boat.  The  landing  at  Lindenian  is  on  the  right  and 
there  is  a  good  Indian  trail  over  the  sandy  soil. 

♦  Spelled  Dvea  by  the  white  inhabitants.  See  Inter  information  in  regard  to  other  passes. 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


21 


The  formation  of  the  Lake  Litideman  country  is  granite,  like  that 
of  the  Coast  range;  the  mountains  are  high  and  precipitous  on  all 
sides,  forming  a  scene  of  wildness  and  grandeur  unequalled.  Two 
small  streams  enter  Liudeman  at  the  head,  one  occupying  the 
canyon  followed  by  the  trail  from  CraLer  lake,  the  other  run- 
ning from  the  west  and  connecting  two  small  lakes  with  Linde- 
man. 

The  lower  end  of  this  lake  is  shallow  and  filled  with  boulders, 
the  portage  being  only  a  pile  of  moraine  caused  by  glacial  action 
through  which  the  outlet  passes.  Lake  Lindeman  is  about  six 
miles  long  with  an  average  width  of  one  mile,  and  opens  up 
from  May  15th  to  June  loth.  After  reaching  Lake  Bemiett  the 
journey  may  be  continued  by  raft,  or  by  going  up  a  small  river, 
which  enters  the  head  of  the  lake  from  the  west,  a  distance  of 
one  mile,  where  good  boat  timber  may  be  found.  This  river  comes 
tearing  down  the  mountain  side,  forming  a  succession  of  rapids 
and  bringing  material  that  has  shoaled  the  head  of  Lake  Bennett 
for  some  distance. 


WHIP  SAWING. 


*  If  it  is  decided  to  build  the  boat  at  that  point  the  timber  will 
have  to  be  packed  from  where  it  is  sawed  to  navigable  water. 
The  only  timber  here  used  in  the  construction  of  boats  is  spruce 
or  Norway  pine.  After  locating  the  timber  the  first  thing  >:ec- 
e.ssary  is  the  construction  of  a  saw-pit.  This  is  done  by  finding 
trees  .so  arranged  as  to  support  the  cross  pieces  which  are  notched 
to  fit  the  stump  that  has  been  cut  the  proper  distance  from  the 

I  ground.     If  four  trees  cannot  be  found  to   act  as  supports,  the 

saw-pit  may  be  built  by  cutting  small  trees  into  short  pieces  and 
building  up  to  the  proper  height.  Often  a  good  axman  will  be 
able  to  fell  the  tree  to  be  .sawed  into  the  pit,  thus  saving  the  time 
and  trouble  of  .skidding  up  and  rolling  the  log  in  place,  which 
sometimes  proves  a  very  difficult  task.  The  greatest  care  should 
always  be  taken  that  the  cross  pieces  are  firmly  in  place  and  not 
liable  to  slip,  or  accidents  may  occur.  An  accompanying  cut  will 
give  some  idea  of  the  manner  in  which  the  pit  should  be  built, 
showing  the  log  blocked  in  place  so  as  to  rest  firmly  on  the  cross 
pieces. 

•  I.iimber  is  now  shipped  from  Seattle  and  taken  over  the  summit  by  pack  horses. 


22 


GUIDK  TO  THE  YUKON 


It  should  first  be  slabbed  after  ascertaining  how  wide  a  board  it 
will  make.  The  ends  are  squared  and  a  plumb  line  made  down 
the  center  of  each  end,  then  half  the  width  of  the  board  to  be 
sawed  will  be  laid  off  each  side  of  this  center  line  and  a  line  struck 
from  end  to  end  on  top,  the  log  turned  over  and  lined  on  the  un- 
der side.  This  will  bring  the  lumber  sawed  as  nearly  out  of  the 
center  as  possible.  Then  turn  it  back  in  place  and  the  top  line 
will  be  found  directly  above  the  bottom  one.  After  the  slabs  are 
taken  off  and  the  log  turned  so  the  slabbed  side  will  rest  on  the 
cross  pieces,  make  a  plumb-line  again  at  right  angles  with  the 
slab,  then  mark  off  as  many  boards  each  side  of  this  line  as  the 
log  will  make  and  line  them  top  and  bottom.  The  ends  may  be 
all  sawed  up  to  the  cross  pieces  and  the  log  moved  one  way  or  the 
other  until  the  scarf  will  admit  the  saw. 

After  the  lumber  is  sawed  it  will  probably  need  some  dressing. 
The  slabs  will  answer  for  oars  and  timbers  for  the  boat,  which 
will  be  built  according  to  the  needs  of  the  party. 


LAKE  BENNETT  AND  TAGISH  LAKE. 

Lake  Bennett  has  an  average  breadth  of  one  mile  with  an  ex- 
treme breadth  of  five,  and  is  twenty-si^;  miles  long.  In  running 
this  lake  on  raft  or  in  boat  much  care  .should  be  taken,  as  strong 
winds  are  sure  to  be  encountered.  These  are  noticed  most  at  the 
upper  end  of  the  lake,  which  occupies  virtually  a  large  canyon. 
The  winds  are  always  in  the  south  and  are  caused  by  the  hot  air 
of  the  inland  valleys,  which  in  turn  is  supplemented  by  the 
cooler  air  of  the  coast,  rushing  inland  over  the  low  passes  and 
down  the  lakes.  High  mountains  rise  abruptly  on  either  side, 
making  it  exceedingly  difficult  to  find  a  landing  for  some  miles 
down  the  lake. 

Lake  Bennett  thus  forms  a  funnel  for  the  Chilkoot  pass,  while 
Windy  Arm  is  continually  swept  by  the  currents  of  the  White 
pass.  These  winds  die  out  in  the  latter  part  of  the  night  and 
early  morning,  but  as  the  sun's  warm  rays  heat  the  inland  val- 
leys their  force  increases  until  they  reach  the  dignity  of  a  high 
gale,  which  sometimes  delays  the  boatmen  for  days.  Few  have 
ever  crossed  the  Windy  Arm  without  having  good  cause  to  re- 
member it. 


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GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


28 


A  large  arm  comes  into  Heniiett  from  the  west  wliicli  Schwatka 
called  Whceton  river.  Lake  Iknnett  is  surroutuled  \)y  lofty 
mountains,  some  reaching  a  height  of  eight  thousand  teet. 

About  five  miles  down  the  lake  the  formation  changes  from  the 
Coast  range  granite  to  that  of  limestone,  the  change  forming  a 
definite  line  which  crosses  the  lake  obliquely  and  can  be  followed 
for  miles.  The  formation  for  miles  north  of  this  is  carboniferous 
with  croppings  of  coal  and  iron.  Volcanic  material  is  found  here 
as  well  as  along  the  entire  length  of  the  route.  The  lower  end  of 
Bennett  broadens  out  into  a  beautiful  valley  which  stretches  away 
to  the  north.  It  proved  a  great  disappointment  when  we  learned 
that  our  course  turned  abruptly  around  the  mountain  to  the  east 
instead  of  following  this  inviting  looking  country,  which  we  had 
felt  .sure  was  the  course  of  the  river. 

Low-terraced,  grassy  and  open-timbered  slopes  here  skirt  the 
lakes  and  foothills  of  the  higher  mountains,  as  well  as  all  the 
lakes  below.  The  climate  is  quite  dry,  and  little  rain  falls  except 
an  occasional  thunder  shower.  The  sun  is  warm  and  the  clouds 
fleecy,  but  the  snow-capped  peaks  always  give  the  air  those  cool, 
bracing  propensities  which  prove  so  disastrous  to  the  bacon  and 
beans. 

CARIBOU  CROSSING. 


The  connecting  waters  between  Lake  Bennett  and  Tagish  lake 
constitute  what  is  called  Caribou  crossing.  Here  there  is  a  slight 
current,  while  the  channel  is  very  crooked  and  shallo-.-,  This  is 
one  of  the  crossings  u.sed  by  the  bands  of  barren-lanu  caribou  in 
their  migration  south  in  the  fall  and  return  in  the  .spring. 


WINDY  ARM, 


Two  miles  from  Caribou  crossing  the  Windy  Arm  enters  Tagish 
lake.  There  are  three  islands  at  its  mouth,  while  beyond  are  high 
mountains  of  limestone  and  marble.  The  marble  is  of  a  fine 
quality  and  curiously  marked  with  gray  and  black,  which  would 
undoubtedly  give  a  beautiful  effect  when  polished.  Beyond  these 
cliffs  a  dome-shaped  mountain  can  be  seen  standing  out  alone  and 


24 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


of  very  defined  form;  it  appears  to  he  of  massive  limestone.  On 
the  west  the  country  becomes  better  timbered,  and  a  few  miles 
further  the  lake  arm  comes  in  from  the  southeast.  Tiiis  a])pears 
to  be  the  main  lake,  it  beiiij;-  much  the  larj^er,  occupyinjj;  a  larije, 
broad  valley  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach. 

I  was  informed  by  an  Indian  that  it  runs  back  three  days'  jour- 
ney, or  forty  miles,  also  that  other  lakes  lie  beyond,  and  that  the 
connections  have  no  currents;  thus  it  becomes  impossible  to  tell 
the  extent  of  navigable  waters  of  this  wonderful  lake  system,  they 
not  having  been  explored.  These  lakes  lie  at  an  elevation  of  about 
twenty-two  hvindred  feet  above  sea  level  and  represent  hundreds 
of  miles  of  navigable  waters  surroiuided  by  a  good  grazing  country, 
rich  in  minerals  and  good  timber,  while  all  the  hardy  •  -getables 
grow  well.     A  large  fish  of  symmetrical  lines  is  foui  re  that 

ri.ses  readily  to  a  troll  and  has  every  appearance  of  th'  ocked 

.salmon.  It  is  of  .salmon  color,  but  turns  white  as  .soon  as  placed 
on  the  fire  and  is  almo.st  tasteless  when  cooked. 

Tagi.sh  lake  is  connected  with  Lake  Mansh  by  a  wide  reach  of 
river  with  a  sluggish  current.  The  banks  are  bordered  l)y  ter- 
raced and  open  wooded  slopes  and  the  valley  is  broad,  especially 
to  the  west. 

The  timber  here  is  mostly  cottonwood  and  white  spruce.  This 
piece  of  river  is  five  miles  long  and  in  some  places  very  shallow, 
like  the  lower  end  of  Tagish  lake.  The  water  in  this  lake  is 
clear  and  covers  the  hard,  gravelly  bottom  to  a  depth  of  four  or 
five  feet  for  nearly  its  entire  lower  end,  which  is  three  miles  wide 
and  five  miles  long. 


TAGISH  HOUvSE. 


On  this  piece  of  river  is  located  the  famous  Tagish  house,  where 
councils  of  war  and  the  yearly  festivals  are  held.  The.se  build- 
ings are  the  only  permanent  buildings  .seen  in  all  the  country 
above  Pelly  river. 

It  was  here  war  was  declared  years  ago  on  the  Coa.st  Indians, 
which  resulted  .so  disastrously  to  the  Sticks.  The.se  houses  are 
kept  up  by  annual  renovation.  Here  also  is  one  of  their  burying 
grounds  and  crematories. 


one,  On 
few  miles 
is  appears 
g  a  large, 

lays'  jour- 

[1  that  the 

ble  to  tell 

stem,  they 

in  of  about 

hundreds 

g  country, 

•   'getables 

■re  that 

.ocked 

1  as  placed 

le  reach  of 
red  by  ter- 
,  especially 

Uce.  This 
y  shallow, 
lis  lake  is 
of  four  or 
miles  wide 


luse,  where 
lese  build- 
le  country 

st  Indians, 
houses  are 
Mr  burying 


I 

a 

3 


?,\ 


; 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


25 


LAKE  MARSH. 


Lake  Marsh  is  twenty  miles  in  length,  with  an  average  width 
of  more  than  two  miles.  It  occupies  a  notably  broad  valley,  while 
to  the  east  a  high  and  well  defined  range  of  mountains  stands  out 
prominently.  To  the  west  the  country  is  rolling,  except  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  lake,  which  is  bordered  by  meadows.  Many  wild 
fowl  were  seen  here.  Away  to  the  west  a  broken  range  of  moun- 
tains reaches  a  greater  height  than  tho.se  to  the  east.  Here  we 
saw  the  first  snow  since  the  high  peaks  about  Bennett  disappeared 
from  view. 

At  the  lower  end  of  the  lake  a  large  island  stands  just  above  the 
outlet  and  the  McClintock  river  enters  here,  draining  a  broad 
valley  to  the  east.  This  river  cannot  be  of  any  considerable  size 
as  the  Hootalinqua  is  at  no  great  distance. 

Here  huge  piles  of  driftwood,  the  first  of  any  great  .size,  are 
encountered.  The  formations  here  are  of  volcanic  materials,  while 
some  have  a  decided  sandstone  appearance,  and  farther  up  the 
lake  are  clearly  defined  exposures  of  a  slaty  formation,  cut  by 
many  quartz  veins.  The  river  from  here  to  the  canyon  has  about 
a  three  mile  current,  and  occupies  a  valley  of  some  extent.  The 
banks  are  low  and  even  marshy  in  many  places,  bordered  with 
much  good  timber,  with  sloughs  filled  with  duck  and  muskrat,  not 
to  mention  the  swarms  of  mosquitoes. 

CUT  BANKS  AND  MART  NS'   NESTS. 


A  few  miles  further  we  come  t.j  the  first  high  cut  banks 
which  become  so  general  farther  down.  These  are  completely 
honey-combed  by  martin,  that  come  all  this  great  distance  to 
rear  their  young.  Mile  after  mile  of  the.se  banks,  furnishing 
homes  for  millions  of  these  playful  little  birds,  is  pas.sed. 


SALMON. 


This  stretch  of  the  river  is  the  limit  of  the  salmon's  travels, 
few  ever  reaching  Lake  Marsh.  The  mighty  waters  of  the 
canyon  sap  the  remaining  strength  after  their  long  journey  and 
it  seems  strange  how  this  beautiful  fish  must  laboi   for  months 


26 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


against  the  current,  only  to  die  after  depositing  their  spawn.  The 
sahnon  here  are  the  finest  in  the  workl  and  will  average  forty 
pounds  each.  They  run  in  pairs,  the  male  keeping  close  to  the 
female,  and  when  the  spawn  has  become  ripe  enough  to  be 
squeezed  out  by  some  friendly  rock,  he  is  always  on  hand  to 
cover  the  whole  with  a  milky  substance  essential  to  insure  the 
arrival  of  the  hundreds  of  little  lives  which  find  their  way  to  the 
mother  sea  only  to  return  as  did  their  progenitors  and  furnish 
food  for  bruin,  for  after  spawning  they  soon  die. 

The  bear  all  come  down  from  their  homes  in  the  mountains  to 
dine  and  fatten  on  this  fish,  a  part  of  the  head  being  their  favorite 
morsel.  In  the  month  of  August  dozens  of  bear  can  be  seen  any 
day  along  the  river. 

Many  smooth  and  grassy  hills  border  the  river,  and  a  few  miles 
above  the  canyon  Silver  creek  enters  among  a  confusion  of  dome- 
like, sandy  hills.  The  current  becomes  stronger  and  the  roar  of 
many  riffles  keeps  the  canyon  constantly  in  mind.  This  will  be 
known,  however,  by  a  friendly  sign  on  the  right  hand  side  reading: 
"Danger,  Stop."  The  right  side  should  be  followed  closely  here 
and  as  soon  as  the  sign  is  passed  a  friendly  eddy  can  be  easily 
made  just  at  the  entrance  of  the  grand  canyon. 


GRAND  CANYON  AND  WHITE  HORSE  RAPIDS. 


;l 


On  the  right  and  at  the  entrance  to  the  canyon  there  is  a  good 
skidway  used  by  the  miners  for  transporting  their  boats. 

The  canyon  proper  is  five-eighths  of  a  mile  long,  but  the  distance 
to  portage  is  nearer  one  mile,  while  that  run  by  the  boats  is  three 
fourths  of  a  mile.  The  canyon  is  cut  through  a  horizontal  basalt 
bed  and  the  walls  range  in  height  from  fiity  to  one  hundred  and 
twenty  feet,  and  are  worn  into  all  kinds  of  fantastic  shapes.  The 
canyon  has  an  average  width  of  about  one  hundred  feet  and  the 
force  of  the  water  of  this  mighty  river,  crowded  and  piled  up  in 
this  small  space,  can  hardly  be  realized.  The  river  above  has  an 
average  width  of  250  yards  and  the  water  of  the  canycm  must 
necessarily  be  deep.  I  heard  of  a  huge  rock  just  within  its  en- 
trance, but  could  see  no  signs  of  it  either  from  the  walls  or  from 
the  boat  as  I  passed  through.  I  believe  there  is  little  danger  in 
shootitig  this  canyon  with  a  good  boat,  unless  the  steersman  should 
lo.se  his  head.     The  water  is  crowded  up  to  a  crest  in  the  center 


awn.  The 
rage  forty 
3se  to  the 
igh  to  be 
11  hand  to 
insure  the 
way  to  the 
nd  furnish 

juntains  to 
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a  few  miles 
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the  roar  of 
'his  will  be 
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:losely  here 
n  be  easily 


lPIDS. 

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thin  its  ui- 

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GUIDE  TO  THK  YUKON 


27 


fully  four  feet  higher  than  at  the  walls,  and  little  difficulty  will  be 
found  in  keeping  the  boat  on  this  crest  if  it  is  kept  under  control. 
But  once  over  the  crest  there  is  danger  of  striknig  the  wall,  and 
little  would  be  left  of  boat  or  cargo  in  this  case.  My  boat  made 
the  distance  of  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  two  minutes  and  twenty 
seconds,  and  the  experience  is  surely  an  exciting  one  and  not  to 
be  forgotten. 

Mj'  boat  was  strongly  built  of  five-eighth  boards,  twenty-two 
feet  long  and  well  braced  with  one  and  three-quarter  inch  timbers 
nailed  and  clinched  with  wire  nails.  It  carried  about  nine  hun- 
dred pounds  of  outfit  besides  ourselves.  We  removed  the  camera, 
plates,  a  bag  of  cooked  provisions  and  our  guns,  stored  the  rest 
close  and  lashed  everything  tight,  covering  all  with  a  tarpaulin, 
thus  preventing  its  filling  as  it  stuck  its  nose  through  the  crest  of 
the  heavy  combers.  When  we  emerged  from  the  dark  walls  and 
entered  the  eddy  on  the  right  at  the  foot,  our  boat  was  leaking 
badly  and  nearly  every  nail  was  started;  this  was  caused  mostly 
from  being  overloaded,  which  nece.ssarilj^  made  the  strain  greater. 
Perhaps  an  attempted  descripti(jn  of  this  short  journey  will  not  be 
out  of  place,  and  while  it  may  satisfy  those  who  never  make  it, 
its  feebleness  will  be  apparent  to  those  fortunate  enough  to  ex- 
perience the  satisfaction  of  gazing  on  this  hell  of  seething  waters 
after  successfuUj'  shooting  through  the  dark  aby.ss. 

We  arranged  everything  .satisfactorily  in  the  boat,  tried  the  steer- 
ing sweep's  strength,  discarded  all  possible  clothing  even  to  our 
heavy  boots,  took  our  respective  places  and  pulled  far  out  into  the 
eddy.  My  partner  strained  ever}'  muscle  at  the  oars  to  give  steer- 
age way  that  we  might  enter  straight.  The  ever  increasing  cur- 
rent caught  VIS  and  our  boat  seemed  fairly  to  shoot  into  the  dark 
shadows  of  tho.se  grotesque  and  weird  walls  until  it  was  caught 
by  the  recoil  of  the  first  great  breaker;  here  it  almost  stopped  and 
fairly  trembled  as  if  in  fear  to  proceed,  but  only  for  a  moment, 
then  dashed  on  to  its  crest  and  with  one  mighty  bound  tried  to 
make  the  next  high  place,  but  it  was  too  heavily  loaded  and  fell 
far  short,  shooting  through  instead,  drenching  us  most  thoroughly. 
As  it  raised  up  the  water  poured  off  of  the  canvas  c(iver  and  we 
were  rushing  on  to  the  next  with  clouds  of  spray  da.shing  in  blind- 
ing sheets  against  our  faces.  In  the  first  stretch  this  was  repeated 
.several  times  until  we  reached  the  basin  about  halfway  through, 
which  forms  an  eddj'  and   is  comparatively  .smooth.     Here  we 


P^PB 


r 


28 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


] 


B 


began  to  breathe  again,  having  held  our  breath  for  just  one  minute 
and  eight  seconds,  and  prepared  for  the  second  and  home  stretch. 
This  proved  to  be  the  worst,  as  at  the  last  pitch  the  canyon  makes 
a  turn  and  the  force  of  the  water  as  it  strikes  the  wall  and  turns 
back  is  irresistible;  but  it  is  all  over  so  quickly  there  is  no  time 
to  turn  pale  or  even  to  remember  just  how  things  were  managed. 
I  had  my  camera  on  the  walls  overlooking  the  canyon  and  focused 
it  on  a  high  comber,  and  Mr.  Bramer  was  kind  enough  to  work 
the  pneinnatic  shutter,  giving  instantaneous  exposure. 

The  contrast  between  those  foaming  waters  and  the  dark  walls 
of  the  canyon  rendered  it  a  hard  object  to  photograph,  but  the  re- 
sult can  be  seen  on  the  opposite  page,  which  will  convey  some  idea 
of  the  canyon  as  seen  from  the  walls  above. 

The  distance  of  three-fourths  of  a  mile  was  made  in  two  min- 
utes and  twenty  seconds,  which  is  the  gait  of  a  good  trotting  horse 
on  a  smooth  track.  Imagine  a  boat  loaded  with  two  men  and 
nine  hundred  pounds  dashing  alongside  of  a  light  pneumatic 
sulky  drawn  by  a  good  trotting  hor.se,  and  some  idea  of  the  trip 
will  be  had. 


! 
■! 


WHITE  HORSE  RAPIDS. 


The  White  Horse  rapids  are  about  two  miles  below  the  canyon, 
and  being  filled  with  rapids  and  sunken  boulders  this  part  of  the 
trip  .should  be  well  looked  out  before  starting.  There  is  one  short 
place  where  most  of  the  miners  portage.  The  skidway  is  on  the 
east  side  and  not  more  than  one  hundred  yards  long.  By  keep- 
ing the  west  bank,  little  trouble  will  be  found  running  the  whole 
di.stance  to  the  head  of  White  Horse,  if  the  boat  is  under  complete 
control.  But  if  it  is  unweildy  the  portage  is  preferable,  Just 
before  reaching  the  White  Horse  there  is  a  comparatively  smooth 
stretch  of  river,  giving  an  opportunity  to  land  on  the  long  point 
just  above  the  great  bend. 

The  boat  can  be  dropped  from  here  down  to  the  eddy,  where 
everything  will  have  to  be  portaged.  The  portage  here  is  on  the 
west  side.  The  river  is  confined  between  low  basalt  walls,  and  the 
last  pitch  is  .scarcely  ninety  feet  wide.  Here  the  water  presents  a 
formidable  spectacle,  and  is  seldom  run,  yet  the  be.st  boat  Vv'ith 
good  boatmen  will,  I  believe,  come  through  all  right.     The  boats 


stone  minute 
lorae  stretch, 
canyon  makes 
all  and  turns 
re  is  no  time 
ere  managed, 
n  and  focused 
ough  to  work 
e. 

he  dark  walls 
h,  but  the  re- 
vey  some  idea 

in  two  min- 
trotting  horse 
two  men  and 
at  pneumatic 
ia  of  the  trip 


■) 


w the  canyon, 
is  part  of  the 
'e  is  one  short 
way  is  on  the 
g.  By  keep- 
ing the  whole 
iider  complete 
ferable.  Just 
tively  smooth 
he  long  point 

s  eddy,  where 
lere  is  on  the 
walls,  and  the 
ter  presents  a 
e.st  boat  vv'ith 
t.     The  boats 


m 


/:  .. 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


can  be  lowered  by  long  ropes  down  to  the  last  pitch,  where  a  short 
portage  of  a  hundred  feet  will  be  made.  From  the  eiifrance  of 
the  canyon  to  the  foot  of  White  Horse  rapids  is  about  three  miles, 
which  can  never  be  made  navigable  for  river  steamers. 


PROPOSED  TRAMWAY  ROUTE. 


There  is  to  the  east  a  long  level  valley  which  runs  to  the  head 
of  White  Horse  rapids,  where  a  tramway  could  be  easily  built 
and  operated;  while  from  the  head  to  the  foot  of  the  White 
Horse  a  slightly  elevated  shelf  forms  a  natural  roadbed.  This 
occupies  the  even  flov.'  of  the  volcanic  bed,  and  only  where  the 
river  makes  the  turn  at  the  head  would  any  work  be  necessary  for 
the  entire  length.  Power  for  such  a  tramway  could  easily  be 
procured  from  the  falls.  The  lake  boats  could  connect  with  this 
above  the  canyon,  while  the  river  boats  could  run  up  to  its  lower 
terminus. 

Here  the  country  shows  great  evidence  of  the  glacial  period, 
and  the  low  grassy-terraced  hills  of  the  east  would  furnish  fine 
grazing,  while  to  the  west  they  are  more  abrupt,  and  further  away 
are  fine  forests  of  spruce  and  pine.  Many  boats  were  lost  in  these 
three  miles  of  river  last  spring;  some  were  turned  loose  and  went 
to  pieces  on  the  rocks,  while  others  were  swamped  in  lowering. 

An  interesting  story  was  told  me  of  two  Swedes  who  came  down 
the  river  last  spring  and  were  carried  into  the  canyon  by  accident. 
There  were  many  miners  at  the  portage  at  the  time,  and  no  sooner 
did  the  boat  strike  the  rough  water  than  the  Swedes  threw  up 
their  hands  and  crouched  in  the  bottom  of  their  boat.  It  was  a 
good  one  and  rode  the  waters  well  until  the  eddy  was  reached, 
when,  having  no  guiding  hand,  it  shot  into  the  eddy  instead  of 
passing  on  down  the  lower  stretch.  The  current  of  this  eddj'  is 
very  strong  and  the  walls  are  about  150  feet  high.  With  all  their 
efforts  they  could  not  induce  the  boat  to  leave  the  circle,  and*  they 
soon  gave  up  the  task  and  lay  down  in  the  boat  perfectly  resigned 
to  their  fate.  The}'  were  entirely  out  of  reach  of  any  assistance 
from  the  banks,  and  after  about  six  hours  of  this  circling  the  boat 
left  the  eddy  by  one  of  those  unaccountable  freaks  of  such  places, 
and  they  were  soon  safely  landed  below. 


!     '  ;':  Sis? 


30 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


TAHKEKNA  RIVER. 


This  river  is  a  good  sized  stream.  The  current  is  not  so  swift 
as  tliat  of  the  Lewis  river,  which  joins  about  fifteen  miles  below 
the  White  Horse  rapids.  It  is  probably  little  more  than  half  as 
lar^e  as  the  Lewis  river  and  is  bordered  by  high  hills,  which  to 
the  westward  reach  thedignity  of  mountains,  apparently  of  granite. 
The  Tahkeena  is  said  to  drain  a  large  lake  to  the  west  some 
.seventy  miles,  and  is  the  inland  waterway  used  in  connection  with 
the  Chilkat  pass,  which  is  made  accessible  by  the  west  arm  of 
Lynn  canal.  This  pass,  while  low,  is  long  and  less  used  than 
formerly  by  the  Indians,  and  never  by  the  miners.  This  river  has 
no  rapids  of  any  note,  making  it  easy  to  ascend. 

LAKE  LAHARGE. 


Lake  Labarge  is  about  twelve  miles  below  the  Tahkeena  river. 
These  twehe  miles  of  river,  the  most  of  the  distance,  run  through 
a  large  valley,  much  of  which  is  flat  and  low,  scarcely  higher  than 
the  lake  to  the  ea.st,  terminating  in  the  Sandstone  range  bordering 
the  lake.  The  river  has  cut  many  channels  through  the  bank  of 
sand  and  clay,  and  some  of  these  save  miles  by  cutting  across. 
Lake  Labarge  is  about  thirty-one  miles  long,  with  an  average 
breadth  of  five  miles,  and  in  some  places  it  is  much  wider. 
This  lake  gets  very  rough  and  is  one  of  the  windiest  of  the  whole 
.sy.stem.  The  formations  about  this  lake  are  very  marked  and  sin- 
gular— mostly  of  limestone  to  the  east — and  rise  abruptly  from  the 
water  in  .some  places,  while  beyond  the.se  still  higher  mountains 
rise  which  separate  the  Hootalinqua  from  the  waters  running  into 
the  Lewis.  There  are  many  beautiful  little  lakes  in  these  mount- 
nins  .some  five  or  six  hundred  feet  above  the  surface  of  Lake  La- 
barge, which  has  an  elevation  of  2, 100  feet.  To  the  west  the  hills 
are  wooded  more  or  less.  At  the  soutliwest  end  a  small  stream 
enters  through  a  broad,  level  valley,  while  another  enters  from 
the  west,  near  its  northern  end.  The  outlet  here  turns  to  the 
east  and  cuts  through  the  hills  instead  of  following  the  broad,  low 
valley  which  we  had  suppo.sed  it  would  follow.  The  lake  lies 
nearly  north  and  south  and  seems  to  be  very  deep,  e.specially  along 
its  eastern  shore.  After  Jeaving  this,  the  la.st  of  the  lakes,  the 
current  of  the  river  soon  increases  to  five  and  six  miles  per  hour. 


m^ 


GUIDlv  TO  THE  YUKON 


31 


tiot  so  swift 
miles  below 
than  half  as 
Is,  which  to 
y  of  granite. 
;  west  some 
nection  with 
west  arm  of 
s  used  than 
'his  river  has 


ikeena  river, 
run  through 
'  higher  than 
ige  bordering 
I  the  bank  of 
tting  across. 
1  an  average 
much   wider, 
of  the  whole 
irked  and  sin- 
iptly  from  the 
er  mountains 
running  into 
these  monnt- 

of  Lake  La- 
west  the  hills 
small  stream 

enters  from 
turns  to  the 
:he  broad,  low 
The  lake  lies 
pecially  along 
the  lakes,  the 
iles  per  hour. 


The  river  has  cut  its  way  among  the  jumble  of  hills,  leaving  it 
very  crooked,  many  times  nearly  doubling  on  itself  The  bed  is 
filled  with  boulders  and  would  probably  need  some  work  to  make 
it  safe  for  river  steamers.  While  boats  could  undoubtedly  ascend 
it  would  be  impassible  to  descend  with  any  degree  of  safety  while 
forced  along  by  the  strong  current.  The  hills  come  down  to  the 
water's  edgt  inl  in  some  ])laces  are  well  timbered.  The  cnit  clay 
banks  are  c  ..u  'non  bom  here  on  to  the  Pelly  river. 

HOOTALINOr.V  RIVKR. 


About  twent  eight  miles  from  Lake  Labarge  the  IIootalin{|ua 
river  enters  t-  'in  the  east  and  at  its  confluence  with  the  Lewis 
seems  quite  av  urge.  The  current  is  much  milder  and  therefore 
carries  a  sniaUvr  quantity  of  water.  While  this  river  is  known  to 
the  miners  as  the  Hootalinqua,  Dawson  calls  it  after  its  Lulian 
name,  "Tesliutoo."  Schwatka  called  it  "Newberry,"  and  the 
original  coast  survey  "Wasathan."  This  custom  of  namc- 
iiangiiig  has  been  carried  on  to  such  an  extent  that  it  becomes 
conflicting;  and  as  the  miners  are  the  men  who  open  up  tli(  •  >un- 
try  tliey  are  the  authority  ihat  should  be  followed.  Thi^  iver 
has  never  been  explored  to  any  great  extent,  but  it  is  certar  that 
it  is  fe^l  ?y  an  enormous  lake  known  as  Teslin,  and  this  ii  urn 
by  many  nvers  of  considerable  size.  This  is  luidoubtedly  a  lact, 
as  it  dmins  a  dry  country  lying  beyond  the  snow  and  ice  of  the 
Coast  range  and  its  volume  of  water  woidd  indicate  the  exteir  of 
the  country  to  l)e  considerable.  Much  flour  gold  has  been  f^uuul 
along  this  river  on  all  the  bars,  and  only  the  lack  of  supplies  pre- 
vents ricli  discoveries.  This  will  u^idoubtedly  be  overcome  in 
the  near  future,  as  Captain  Healey  toid  me  he  would  establi.sh  a 
trading  post  there  this  coming  season.  The  bars  for  miles  below 
the  Hootalinqua  have  furnished  much  gold,  that  of  the  Cassiar 
being  far  the  richest.  The  river  has  a  good  five-mile  current  and 
js  bordered  by  hills  of  considerable  height. 

BIG  SALMON  RIVER. 


Thirty-one  miles  from  the  Hootalinqua  the  Big  Salmon  enters 
from  the  same  side  and  is  a  large  river.  Little  definite  informa- 
tion could  be  obtained  concerning  this  river,  except  that  its  bars 


''W 

'  I'.  '< 

i   i 
1 

i 


32 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


carry  some  K"!*'  ''H"!  that  its  source  lies  alxiut  two  hundred  miles 
to  the  south  and  east,  and  like  all  other  rivers  of  the  country  flows 
from  a  number  of  lakes.  It  has  been  little  prospected,  but  all 
who  have  prospected  it  report  ji;old  everywhere.  This  river,  as 
its  name  would  indicate,  is  a  j^reat  salmon  stream  and  many  In- 
dians spend  the  summer  months  liere  preparing  their  winter 
salmon.  The  current  is  mild  compared  with  the  Lewis,  and  the 
water  much  clearer,  as  are  all  the  waters  flowing  from  the  ea;  1., 
while  tho.se  from  the  west  .show  signs  of  glacial  action  and  vol- 
canic depasits.  Helow  the  Big  Salmon  the  hills  are  high  and 
rounded,  many  wooded  to  the  summits.  Some  bars  have  been 
worked  here. 

I^ITTLK  SALMON  RIVKR. 

Thirty-five  miles  farther  down,  the  Little  Salmon  river  er^^ers 
from  the  cast  from  among  high  hills  and  does  not  show  much  val 
ley.  This  river  has  never  been  prospected  to  any  extent  and  little 
could  be  learned  of  it  except  as  a  fishing  stream  used  by  the  In- 
dians. The  river  makes  many  long  bends  in  this  distance,  fairly 
doubling  on  itself.  From  Little  Salmon  river  to  Five  Finger  rap- 
ids the  distance  by  river  is  fifty-three  miles  while  in  a  straight 
line  it  would  scarcely  exceed  one-half  of  that  distance.  The 
course  of  the  river  is  very  irregular  with  scarcely  any  valley. 

George  McCormack  has  a  small  trading  post  about  fifteen  miles 
above  Five  Fingers,  and  five  and  one-half  miles  farther  up  he  is 
opening  up  a  vein  of  coal  which  shows  well  a  few  feet  from  the 
surface.     It  Is  of  a  lignite  character  and  burns  well. 

The  banks  where  cut  by  the  river  are  of  clay,  gravel  and  vol- 
canic matter.  Thvy  are  very  high  and  are  constantly  .sliding  into 
the  river.  The  current  from  here  to  the  Five  Fingers  is  about  five 
miles  per  hour.  The  country  is  generally  well  wooded,  birch 
being  abundant. 

FIVK  FINGERS. 


This  rapid  is  short,  but  the  drop  caused  by  the  five  columns  of 
rock,  which  partly  obstruct  the  river's  course,  is  considerable  and 
would  prove  an  obstruction  to  river  steamers,  although  it  would 
be  possible  at  a  reasonable  cost  to  blast  out  one  of  these  columns. 


■ 


iidrc'd  miles 
lUJitry  flows 
fd,  Imt  all 
is  river,  as 
l1  many  Iti- 
heir  winter 
/is,  and  tbe 
m\  the  ea^l, 
on  and  vol- 
e  high  and 
i  have  been 


river  er^ers 
iw  much  val 
iiit  and  little 
;d  by  the  In- 
stance, fairly 
;  Finger  rap- 
n  a  straight 
stance.  The 
r  valley. 

fifteen  miles 
ther  up  he  is 
feet  from  the 

[\vel  and  vol- 
y  sliding  into 
s  is  about  five 
;ooded,   birch 


ve  columns  of 
isiderable  and 
)Ugh  it  would 
hese  columns. 


?'■• 


O 
■A 

> 

a 

H 


a 
& 


ass 


'm 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


33 


This  could  be  done  in  the  winter  with  little  difficulty,  and  would 
widen  the  channel  enough  to  lessen  the  fall.  Little  trouble  will 
be  experienced  in  running  this  rapid  with  a  good  boat,  although 
several  accidents  have  occurred  here.  The  chainiel  to  the  right 
is  the  one  usually  run.  The  illustration  was  taken  from  the  high 
bank  some  distance  below,  from  the  west  side.  The  country  here 
is  generalh-  wooded,  with  terraced,  open,  grassy  slopes  on  liie 
southern  hillsides. 

RINK   RAPIDS. 


These  rapids  are  some  six  miles  below  Five  Fingers  and  are 
formed  by  a  bar  of  rocks  reaching  nearly  across  the  ri\er.  This, 
on  the  west  side  is  quite  as  bad  as  the  Five  Fingers,  but  on  the 
east  there  is  scarcely  a  ripple,  and  a  small  river  steamer  would 
have  no  difficulty  in  following  this  shore.  In  running  here,  by 
keeping  clo.se  to  the  east  shore,  it  will  not  be  neces.sary  to  .stop  at 
all.  The  valley  now  becomes  wider,  while  the  hills  are  less  de- 
fined. The  river  rapidly  widens  al.so,  and  islands  are  numerou.s. 
The  current  runs  about  five  miles  an  hour,  while  farther  down  it 
increases  to  fully  .si.K  miles.  About  tliirty  miles  below  some  sin- 
gular formations  occur;  one  particular  mound-shaped  butte  ri.ses 
out  of  a  flat,  while  others  come  down  to  the  river's  edge.  Some 
croppings  of  quartz  are  seen  in  the.se  bluflfs.  Farther  down,  the 
river  becomes  wider  and  so  filled  with  islands  that  it  is  hard  to 
tell  where  the  shores  are,  until  the  high  hills  on  the  west  are 
reached.  These  come  down  to  the  water  very  abrupt,  and  the 
current  is  increased. 


OLD  FORT  SELKIRK. 


Old  Fort  Selkirk  is  fifty-five  miles  from  Five  Fingers  and  just 
below  the  confluence  of  the  Pelly  and  Lewis  rivers.  Here  Harper 
has  a  trading  po.st,  and  Captain  Healey's  company  winter  their 
boat,  the  /'.  D.  Wcarc. 

On  the  east  side  there  is  a  high  basalt  plateau,  .said  to  have 
come  from  a  large  volcano  some  thirty  miles  up  Pelly  river.  It 
has  an  abrupt  front  and  has  crowded  the  river  .some  distance  to 
the  west,  which  it  follows  .some  six  or  eight  miles,  where  it  ter- 
minates in  hills  of , sand  and  limestone. 


84 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


Just  below  the  confluence  of  the  Pelly  and  Lewis  rivers  is  the 
point  at  which  old  Fort  Selkirk  stood  before  it  was  pillaged  and 
burned,  August  i,  1852,  by  the  coast  Indians,  Only  the  ruins  of 
the  chimneys  can  now  be  found.  Fine  gardens  belonging  to  the 
mission  and  post  were  seen  here.  A  good  grazing  country  of  con- 
siderable extent  surrounds  this  site.  The  river  from  here  on  for 
some  distance  has  a  uniform  width,  with  abrupt  hills  coming  quite 
down  to  the  water's  edge.  Farther  on,  the  river  widens  to  fully 
one  mile,  and  contains  many  islands,  all  well  timbered.  The  form- 
ation is  mostly  limestone  with  some  granite,  slate  and  croppings 
of  quartz  everywhere. 


WHITE  RIVER. 


Ninety-six  miles  from  Fort  Selkirk  the  White  river  enters  from 
the  west.  It  is,  beyond  all  doubt,  the  most  wonderful  of  all  this 
great  system  of  rivers.  It  is  a  large  stream  and  carries  a  vast  vol- 
ume of  water,  having  an  eight  to  a  ten-mile  current.  The  water 
is  extremely  muddy,  due  to  a  white,  glassy  substance  which  com- 
pletelj'  colors  the  entire  Yukon  until  it  is  but  little  clearer  than 
the  White  river  itself.  The  White  discharges  its  waters  into  the 
Yukon  with  such  a  force  that  the  roar  can  be  heard  for  some  dis- 
tance, and  this  nuiddy  tributary  is  projected  nearly  across  the 
swift  current  of  the  main  river.  White  river  drains  a  high, 
mountainous  country  away  to  the  west,  according  to  the  statement 
of  a  Tanana  Indian,  who  has  traveled  the  country  extensively, 
and  who,  with  eight  others,  came  from  Tanana.  They  came 
down  White  river,  to  the  point  on  the  Yukon  where  we  met  them, 
in  a  skin  canoe  built  for  the  purinxse.  They  also  informed  us  that 
many  high  mountains  and  a  large  lake  many  tlays'  travel  to  ihe 
west  lay  near  the  source  of  the  White,  and  that  one  of  the  mount- 
ains was  many  times  higher  than  the  others  and  was  often  seen 
emitting  fire  and  smoke  and  was  known  to  the  Indians  as  Thunder 
mountain.  I  a.sked  them  if  the  mountain  was  covered  with  clo  ids 
most  of  the  time.  They  told  me  that  sometimes  in  summer  it 
could  not  be  seen,  and  that  in  winter  it  was  never  visible.  This 
would  prove  that  it  was  not  of  the  Coast  range,  if  such  a  mountain 
does  really  exist. 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


85 


rivers  is  the 
pillaged  and 
T  the  ruins  of 
mging  to  the 
untry  of  con- 
11  here  on  for 
coming  quite 
ideus  to  fully 
d.  The  form- 
nd  croppings 


VOLCANIC  ASH  DEPOSITS. 


er  enters  from 
rful  of  all  this 
rifcs  a  vast  vol- 
t.     The  water 
:e  which  com- 
e  clearer  than 
•aters  into  the 
.  for  some  dis- 
rly  across  the 
rains   a   high, 
)  the  statement 
y  extensively. 
They  came 
we  met  them, 
fnrmed  us  that 
travel  to  the 
of  the  mount- 
vas  often  seen 
ms  as  Thunder 
t'd  with  clo  ids 
m  sunnner  it 
visible.     This 
ich  a  mountain 


The  White  river  must  come  from  a  glacial  region,  and  probablj' 
flows  over  volcanic  deposits,  as  its  sediment  is  similar  to  ashes  and 
is  noticed  all  along  the  river  below  the  lakes.  This  volcanic  ash 
appears  to  have  been  deposited-  like  snow,  and  is  said  to  cover  a 
vast  extent  of  territory.  Dr.  Dawson  reports  finding  it  all  along 
the  Pelly  river,  but  found  it  of  a  much  greater  thickness  on  the 
Lewis. river  at  a  point  directly  west  of  the  deposits  on  the  Pelly, 
thus  proving  that  the  seat  of  action  was  to  the  west.  That  the 
deposit  is  of  recent  date  ♦^liere  can  be  little  doubt,  as  it  overlays 
driftwood  in  some  of  the  cut  banks  of  the  Lewis  and  is  covered 
with  very  little  soil.  However,  all  the  timber  has  grown  since  its 
fall,  as  I  noticed  trees  of  the  largest  size  growing  on  drift  deposits 
which  overlaid  it  several  feet.  Daw.son  says  this  ash  deposit  prob- 
ably covers  25,000  square  miles,  and  he  is  undoubtedly  the  l.»est 
authority  on  such  matters  of  any  one  who  has  visited  that  region. 
His  report  to  the  Canadian  government  shows  him  to  be  the  clos- 
est observer  (if  everything.  I  do  not  believe  the  eruption  which 
deposited  this  a.sli  took  place  in  the  Coast  range.  I  can  find  no 
record  of  its  being  noticed  on  the  coast  or  bj'  any  of  the  explorers 
who  vi.sited  the  vicinity  of  this  range  of  mountains  in  this  dis- 
trict, or  in  the  Copper  river  district,  beyond  the  Coast  range, 
where  it  should  l)e  more  evident.  This,  and  the  reported  burning 
mountain  of  the  interior,  the  muddy  waters  of  the  White  river, 
the  exceedingly  muddy  condition  of  all  these  waters,  the  fact  that 
tlie  deposit  at  the  time  of  action  was  doubtless  of  a  very  light 
character,  and  that  the  prevailing  west  winds  would  prevent  its  fall- 
ing to  any  extent  to  the  west,  all  these  facts  go  to  pnn'e  that  the 
action  took  place  near  the  head  waters  of  the  VViiite  river,  and  the 
possible  existence  of  an  active  volcano  there  at  the  present  time. 

The  Yukon  rapidly  widens  below  the  White  river  to  fully  one 
mife  and  contains  many  islands,  all  well  timbered.  The  valley 
also  widens  with  the  river. 

STEWART  RIVER. 


Ten  miles  below  the  White  river  the  Stewart  river  enters  from 
the  east  and  helps  swell  the  already  mighty  Yukon.  The  Stewart 
has  a  mild  current,  with  deep,  darkish  waters.     It  is  bordered  by 


i 


»-5 


86  GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 

rolling  hills,  which  in  turn  are  backed  by  high  hills,  rising  to  the 
dignity  of  mountains  in  many  places.  The  bars  of  the  river  have 
furnished  lucrative  diggings  for  j'ears  to  many  miners,  and  man}' 
hundred  miles  of  tributaries  and  gulches  yet  remain  to  be  pros- 
pected. It  is  probably  navigable  for  small  liver  steamers  for 
many  miles  and  is  said  to  drain  some  large  lakes  awaj*  to  the 
southeast.  It  is  undoubtedly  three  hundred  miles  in  length,  not 
counting  its  many  tributaries.  Just  below  the  mouth,  on  the  west, 
are  some  abrupt  hills,  apparently  of  limestone. 

SIXTY-MILE  CREEK. 


Seventy  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Stewart  river  Sixty-Mile 
creek  enters  from  the  west.  Harper  and  Ladue  have  a  trading 
post  and  a  .sawmill  here  on  an  island.  About  one  hundred  miners 
annually  winter  here.  Sixty-Mile  creek  has  a  swift  current  and 
is  filled  with  rapids,  making  it  very  difficult  to  ascend.  Miller 
creek  enters  Sixty-Mile  creek  about  seventy  miles  from  its  mouth. 
Little  traveling  to  Miller  creek  is  done  by  the  way  of  water,  for 
it  is  much  easier  to  ascend  Sixty-Mile  creek  and  portage  over  the 
Bald  hills  to  the  head  of  Miller.  Below  Sixty-Mile  creek  the 
Yukon  holds  its  usual  current  and  contaitis  many  islands.  The 
valley  is  not  so  broad,  however,  the  hills  being  abrupt  and  of 
various  formations,  abundant  croppings  of  quartz  being  seen 
everywhere. 

INDIAN  CREEK  AND  KLONDYKE  RIVER. 


Thirty  miles  below  Sixty-Mile  creek,  Indian  creek  enters  the 
Yukon.  Here  discoveries  were  made  la.st  season  that  were  re- 
ported very  rich.  The  stream  is  rapid,  with  very  little  water,  and 
some  of  the  miners  have  ascended  it  a  distance  of  one  hundred 
miles.  Fifty  miles  from  vSixty  Mile  creek  the  Klondyke  river  en- 
ters from  the  east,  and  just  here  the  great  copper  belt  crosses  the 
Yukon.  The  Indians  have  a  fishing  camp  at  this  ]>oint.  the 
Klondyke  l)eing  a  noted  .stream  for  salmoti.  Its  waters  arc  very 
clear  and  shallow,  being  one  continual  succession  of  riffles.  It  has 
its  source  in  a  high  range  of  snow  capped  mountains,  probably  a 
spur  of  the  Rocky  mountains.     This  .section  of  the  country  abounds 


rising  to  the 
;he  river  have 
:rs,  and  many 
n  to  be  pros- 
steatners  for 
away  to  the 
in  length,  not 
I,  on  the  west, 


;r  Sixty-Mile 
ave  a  trading 
Lindred  miners 
"t  cnrrent  and 
cend.  Miller 
:om  its  mouth. 
•  of  water,  for 
Kage  over  the 
ile  creek  the 
islands.  The 
ihrupt  and  of 
z    being   seen 


VER. 

;ek  enters  the 
that  were  re- 
tle  water,  and 
■  one  hundred 
dyke  river  en- 
elt  crosses  the 
lis  point,  the 
aters  are  very 
ri files.  It  has 
IS,  prol)ably  a 
iintry  abounds 


1  ^ 


1 


'O' 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON  37 

in  game.  A  sreat  many  bear  come  down  from  the  mountains  in 
summer  to  feed  on  the  numerous  sahnon  that  crowd  up  this  stream 
and  become  easy  prey  to  bruin,  owing  to  the  shallow  water. 
Among  the.se  bear  is  a  species  of  grizzly  that  is  very  bold  and 
ferocious,  so  much  so,  that  the  Indians  have  a  Q'^;adly  fear  of 
hunting  up  this  creek  in  the  salmon  season.  Six  miles  below  are 
the  ruins  of  old  Fort  Reliance.  Many  curious  formations  of  lime 
and  sandstone,  which  have  been  worn  into  fantastic  shapes,  occur. 
Quartz  croppings  are  seen  all  along,  while  granite,  schist,  nieta- 
niorphic  and  crystalline  rock  similar  to  those  of  the  Rocky  moun- 
tains are  not  uncommon. 

Twelve  miles  below  Fort  Reliance,  coming  from  the  east,  is  a 
small,  rapid  creek,  which,  as  far  as  I  know,  has  no  name.  It 
drains  a  large  and  inviting  valley,  while  high  snow-capped  moun- 
tains can  be  seen  in  the  distance.  This  creek  seems  never  to  have 
been  prospected  and  is  surelj-  a  promising  looking  spot.  From 
here  to  Forty  Mile  creek,  the  current  is  normal  and  the  river  more 
confined  by  high  banks  and  onsequently  has  fewer  islands. 


FORTY  mill:  creek. 


Forty  Mile  creek  received  its  name  from  entering  the  Yukon 
about  forty  miles  from  old  Fort  Reliance.  For  >ears  its  bars  have 
yielded  large  returns  for  the  labor  expended,  but  these  diggings 
have  been  abandoned  for  some  time  for  the  gulches  that  Hirnish 
coarse  gold  and  which  have  become  famed  all  over  the  countrj'. 
Forty  Mile  creek  is  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  long  and 
has  many  tributaries,  all  of  which  carry  gold  in  paying  quantities. 
It  enters  the  Yukon  from  the  west  and  <lrains  that  country  lying 
l)etween  the  Yukon  and  Tanana  rivers.  This  country  is  nearly 
covered  witli  glacial  drift  to  th:*  depth  of  niiiny  feet.  It  is  all  of 
peculiar  formation,  there  being  no  defined  range  of  mountains, 
but  a  jumble  of  bald  hills,  the  glacial  drip  of  which  feeds  hun- 
dreds of  tributaries  to  the  larger  creeks.  The  formation  of  this 
country  will  be  found  marked  upon  the  maps  as  they  occur. 
These  maps  cover  all  of  Forty  Mile  creek  and  its  branches  and 
that  part  of  Sixty  Mile  creek  and  its  gulches  which  is  being 
worked  to  any  extent,  both  the  summer  and  winter  trials  being 
marked  by  dotted  lines.     The  summer  trail  leads  up  Forty  Mile 


88  GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 

creek  by  boat  to  Moose  creek,  a  distance  of  twenty-seven  miles, 
then  by  trail  over  Bald  hills  to  the  head  of  Miller  creek,  a  dis- 
tance of  thirty-four  miles.  Poker,  Davis,  Glacier  and  Little  Gold 
creeks  all  lie  within  a  few  miles  of  Miller  creek. 


MILLER  CREEK. 


Miller  creek  thus  far  has  proved  to  have  the  richest  diggings, 
various  estimates  placing  the  sum  taken  out  last  season  as  high 
as  $30o,cx)o.  In  one  claim  alone  $35,000  were  taken  out  and  the 
place  worked  was  only  thirty  by  one  hundred  feet,  one  clean-up 
being  made  of  1,100  ounces. 

This  creek  is  not  more  than  six  miles  long  with  about  fifty-four 
claims,  and  many  of  the  lower  claims  are  not  opened  up  to  any 
extent  as  yet.  A  claim  here  consists  of  five  hinidred  feet  of  the 
creek  and  may  reach  up  both  sides  of  the  gulch  an  indefinite  dis- 
tance. The  discoverer  is  allowed  two  claims  or  one  thousand 
feet. 

Miller  creek  was  prospected  and  given  up  three  times  before  it 
was  thought  profitable  to  work,  thus  showing  how  difiicuU  pros- 
pecting becomes  here,  owing  to  the  vast  quantities  of  glacial  drift 
everwhere.  Miller  creek  furnishes  work  for  about  125  men,  the 
prevailing  pay  be'iig  ten  dollars  a  day.  Provisions  and  neces.sities 
are  correspondingly  high;  potatoes  and  onions  sold  for  $1  a  pound; 
flour,  $19.50  per  .sack  of  fifty  pound;  gum  boots  $18  per  pair; 
butter,  $1.50  per  pound;  whiskey,  $i  per  glass  and  other  things  in 
proportion.  This  applies  to  all  mining  creeks  lying  near  Miller 
creek,  namely,  Davis  creek.  Pike's  gulch.  Little  (iold  creek  and 
Glacier  creek.  These  prices  are  brought  about  by  the  enormous 
cost  of  packing  from  Forty  Mile  Post  to  the  mines  on  these  creeks. 


FREIGHTING. 


This  is  done  from  Forty  Mile  Post  up  to  the  mouth  of  Moo.se 
creek  by  freighttis  of  from  six  to  eight  tons  burden,  poled  by  In- 
dians, and  thence  over  the  hills  to  Miller  creek,  thirty-four  miles 
farther.  Supplies  are  carried  by  miners  and  Indians  and  even 
sleigh  dogs  are  used,  a  good  dog  carrying  as  high  as  fifty  pounds. 
The  total  distance  from  Forty   Mile  Post  to  the  head  of  Miller 


y-seven  miles, 
r  creek,  a  dis- 
ncl  Little  Gold 


best  diggings, 
season  as  high 
en  out  and  the 
t,  one  clean-up 

ibout  fifty-four 
ned  up  to  any 
red  feet  of  the 
I  indefinite  dis- 
one  thousand 

times  before  it 
V  difHicuU  pros- 
of  glacial  drift 
t  125  men,  the 
and  necessities 
for$i  a  pound; 

$18  per  pair; 
other  things  in 
ng  near  Miller 
iold  creek  and 

the  enormous 
jn  these  creeks. 


louth  of  Moose 
n,  poled  by  In- 
lirty-four  miles 
dians  and  even 
as  fifty  pounds, 
head  of  Miller 


L 


\^^..!m^ 


p 
/. 

u 


< 

S 


t 
t 
c 

V 

h 

s 
!"( 
ii 
o 


IK 

ti 

te 

t: 

or 
oil 


acl 
ha 
of 
fee 
inc 


nu 
cut 
pai 
pre 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


39 


creek  is  about  sixty-nne  miles,  an<l  the  cost  of  rreiglititip;  in  snm- 
incr  is  $t,o  per  lumdred  poiimls  Two  small  horses  were  uscfl 
here  with  j^ood  results  in  the  summer  of  '94.  The  round  trip  from 
llie  mouth  of  Moose  creek  to  Miller,  a  distanc-e  of  thirty-four 
miles,  can  be  made  in  three  days  with  a  loail  of  200  pounds.  This 
distance  is  lessened  some  l>y  the  winter  trail.  All  iVeij^htinj^  in 
winter  is  done  by  sleighs  with  dogs  at  a  cost  of  $10  to  513  per 
hundred  pounds.  They  haul  much  larger  loads  than  one  would 
suppose  and  make  long  distances  over  the  ice  and  SJiow.  Their 
food  consists  entirely  of  dried  salmon  and  they  lie  down  at  niglil 
in  the  snow  to  rest  and  sleep  after  their  long,  hard  day's  work, 
often  with  the  thermometer  down  to  sixty  degrees  below  zero. 


GLACIKR  CRIvEK. 


This  creek  lies  east  of  Miller  creek,  three  miles  distant,  running 
nearly  parallel  with  it,  and  being  separated  only  by  a  high  range 
of  hills.  It  has  been  prospected  .several  limes  but  was  not  located 
till  last  season.  Some  preliminary  work  had  been  done  towards 
opening  it  up.  Such  claims  as  were  prospected  to  any  great  ex- 
tent promise  fair  to  be  equally  as  rich  as  those  on  Miller  creek. 
The  exci'.ement  occurred  in  August  and  was  started  bj'  .some 
prospectors  who  discovered  rich  finds  in  the  old  du.nps  of  previ- 
ous prospectors.  Within  six  hours  the  whole  creek  was  staked 
out,  the  locators  being  mostly  the  hired  miners  of  Miller  creek. 


PROSPECTING  AND  MINING. 


Prospecting  in  this  country  is  very  difficult  owing  to  the  char- 
acter of  the  .surface,  the  general  formation  being  .soft,  the  hills 
having  been  worn  smooth  by  glacial  action  which  left  a  layer 
of  drift  over  the  whole  country  to  a  depth  of  from  five  to  fifteen 
feet.  This  is  frozen  the  whole  year  with  the  exception  of  a  few 
inches  on  the  .surface. 

The  method  of  prospecting  is  usually  carried  on  by  sinking  a 
number  of  holes  to  bed-rock  across  the  bed  of  the  creek,  or  cross- 
cutting  it  by  a  tunnel  and  testing  the  dirt  every  few  feet  by 
panning,  thus  locating  the  pay-streak.  After  a  creek  has  l)een 
prospected  and  located  then  it  becomes  nece.ssary  to  remove  the 


p  T 


40 


GUIUK  TU  TilH  YUKON 


glacial  drift.  Tlie  trees  and  roots  are  removed  ntid  a  stream  of 
water  turned  on  which  with  the  help  of  the  sun  in  time  l)ares  the 
l)ay-streak.  Tiie  course  of  the  water  is  then  turned  alonj;  the 
side  of  the  hill,  a  dam  built  and  sluice-boxes  erected.  The.se  are 
made  with  corruf^ated  bottoms  which  catch  and  retain  the  gold. 
They  are  given  a  grade  regulated  by  the  coarseness  of  the  gold; 
that  is,  if  the  gold  is  of  an  exceedingly  fine  (juality,  the  grade 
will  be  slight,  but  if  of  a  coarser  character,  a  greater  pitch  can  be 
given,  which  is  always  preferable,  as  the  swiftness  of  the  water 
enables  a  greater  ([uanlity  of  dirt  to  be  handled.  The  lack  of 
water  in  these  gulches  proves  a  great  hindrance  in  many  ca.ses. 
The  seasons  are  dry  and  only  the  glacial  drip  of  the  hills  can  be 
depended  ujion. 

A  method  lately  adopted  on  these  creeks  by  which  mining  can 
be  done  in  winter  has  proved  profitable  besides  doing  away  with 
the  long  jieriod  of  idleness.  This  is  called  l>//n////^> ,  and  is  done 
by  drifting,  melting  away  the  frost  by  fire  and  taking  out  only  the 
pay  dirt,  leaving  the  glacial  drift  and  surface  intact.  The  pay 
dirt  thus  removed  is  easily  washed  in  the  spring  when  water  is 
plenty. 

imn  ROCK  CRKRK. 


This  creek  is  about  three  miles  distant  from  Miller  creek  to  the 
west  and  runs  nearly  parallel  with  it.  Although  it  has  been  pro.s- 
pecled  to  some  extent,  and  .some  claims  have  been  located,  it  has 
not  proved  very  satisfactory;  yet  it  may  contain  gold  in  paying 
quantities.  The  creek,  as  its  name  indicates,  is  not  overlaid  with 
the  usual  amount  of  glacial  drift  and  therefore  would  be  much 
more  easily  worked.  It  is  much  better  timbered  than  the  sur- 
rounding creeks  and  carries  a  greater  volume  of  water,  being  fed 
by  ninnerous  springs  among  v.iiich  are  .several  fine  soda  and  other 
mineral  sjjrings.  This  creek  .seems  to  differ  in  many  respects 
from  any  of  the  others  and  the  geologi.sl  might  find  many  sur- 
prises in  its  exceedingly  interesting  and  wonderfid  formation. 


1  .1.^  * 

nil 


BALI)  HILLS. 


From  the  summit  of  the  liald  hills  at  the  head  of  these  creeks 
is  one  of  the  grandest  scenes  on  this  continent.     Scores  of  .spark- 


GUIDE  To  THK  YUKON 


41 


liiij:^  streams,  likt-  tlireads  of  silver,  stretch  away  toward  every 
point  of  tile  compass.  To  tlie  west  liigh  mountains  tint  the 
hori/on  with  l)lue;  while  to  the  north  and  east,  beyond  the  mi>5hty 
Vnkon,  a  spur  of  the  Rocky  mountains  can  he  traced  for  more 
than  a  hundred  miles,  its  snow-caj)ped  peaks  pie-cing  the  clouds. 
To  the  northwest  the  hij;h  cut  hanks  of  h'orty  Mile  creek  can  l)e 
seen,  while  beyond,  the  old  standard  land  mark,  whose  dome  can 
never  be  mistaken,  no  matter  from  wliat  point  of  view  it  is  seen, 
looms  up  grandly. 


FORTY  MILIv  POST. 


Forty  Mile  Post  is  situated  on  the  j^oint  of  land  formed  by 
Forty  Mile  creek  and  the  Yukon.  This  point  at  times  of  high 
water  is  converted  into  an  island,  sr)me  jiorlioiis  of  which  are 
occasionally  submerged.  Heyond  this  and  bordering  the  hills  is  a 
fine  table  land,  extensive  enough  to  make  a  fine  towiisite.  The 
officers  of  the  Canadian  government  have  made  sufl'icient  reserves 
here  for  custom  buildings  and  police  headcjuarters.  Tlii.i  tract,  I 
believe,  is  under  the  immediate  direction  of  Captain  C.  Constan- 
tine. 

The  town  at  present  consists  often  .saloons,  McQucstion  &  Co's 
store,  two  blacksmith  shojis,  two  restaurants,  three  billiard  halls, 
two  dance  houses,  oi)era  house,  cigar  factory,  barber  shop,  two 
bakeries  and  several  breweries  and  distilleries.  The  town  has  a 
recorder  and  the  sum  of  five  dollars  is  charged  for  the  filing  and 
staking  of  lots.  In  order  to  hold  a  lot  the  owner  must  erect  a 
building  within  a  certain  time;  if  it  is  to  be  a  cabin,  it  must  be 
built  within  six  months  after  location. 

Thi  buildings  are  all  nn:le  of  logs  chinked  with  mass;  the 
roofs  are  of  poles  covered  with  a  layer  of  moss  with  a  foot  of  dirt 
over  all. 

Living  is  reasonable,  two  dollars  a  day  being  charged  for  b:)ard 
by  the  two  restanrants  while  cal)iiis  can  bj  rented  for  from  thirty 
to  thirty-five  dollars  for  the  winter  season. 


vw 


42 


GUIDE  TO  THB:  YUKON 


DOGS. 


One  of  the  first  things  to  attract  attention  here,  as  well  as 
throughout  the  entire  Yukon  basin,  is  the  great  number  of  dogs. 
They  are  closely  related  to  the  wolf,  and  if  they  are  not  natural 
born  thieves  they  are  nothinjr.  They  usually  celebrate  the  arri- 
val of  all  new  comers  by  a  general  fight.  They  will  steal  any- 
thmg  from  a  pair  of  boots  to  a  side  of  bacon;  one  actually  stole  a 


tj 


paste  pot  from  me  whil-^  I  was  at  work  on  some  pictures.  They 
maiiifest  a  great  degree  of  cunning  in  their  attempts  at  stealing. 
Snowshoes,  dog  harness  and  the  like,  as  well  as  all  kinds  of  un- 
canncil  meats  have  to  be  cached.  This  is  done  by  erecting  a 
strong  house  upon  posts,  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  above  groTind,  for 
the  safe  keeping  of  all  such  articles.  As  previously  stated,  these 
dogs  are  used  in  freighting  to  the  mines  iu  winter.  An  add! 
lional  charge  of  two  cents  a  pound  is  made  on  bacon  and  all  un- 
canned  meats  on  account  of  tlie  ext.a  trouble  to  keep  that  class 


as  well  as 
ber  of  dogs. 
;  not  natural 
ate  the  arri- 
1  steal  any- 
ually  stole  a 


ires.      They 
at  stealing. 

ciiids  of  un- 

y  erecting  a 
ground,  for 

stated,  tliese 
An  addi 
and  all  un- 

ip  that  class 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


48 


of  goods  from  the  dogs.  The  howling  of  wolves  would  be  pleas- 
ant music  compared  with  the  howling  of  these  dogs  at  niglit. 
Under  :he  least  provocation,  in  the  calm  of  night,  one  will  5itart 
in  and  almost  simultaneously  every  dog  within  five  miles  will  join 
in  a  general  uproar.  They  often  continue  their  howlings  for 
hours.  In  .spite  of  all  the.se  inconveniences,  the  dog  is  to  the  in- 
habitants of  the  Yukon  what  the  reindeer  is  to  the  Laplander, 
the  horse  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  plains.  In  winter  they  are 
hitched  to  a  sleigh  and  in  summer  loaded  with  packs.  When  the 
day  comes  for  them  to  bi»  replaced  by  the  reindeer  that  roam  Bald 
hills  in  bands  of  Ihousamls,  all  will  rejoice,  for  the  dogs  are 
always  partially  loaded  with  their  own  food,  and  in  cases  of  dis- 
tre.ss  iurnish  poor  food  even  for  a  lamished  miner.  The  flesh  of 
the  reindeer  is  a  delicacy,  and  they  are  able  to  subsist  in  all  parts 
of  the  country. 

FORT  CUDAHY. 


Just  below  where  Forty  Mile  creek  unites  with  the  Yukon,  on  a 
beautiful  wooded  shelf,  high  above  tlie  river,  protected  from  the 
north  and  west  winds  by  high  hills,  rests  Fort  Cudahy.  This 
town  was  founded  by  Captain  Healey  and  is  the  headcpiarlers  of 
the  North  American  Transportation  and  Trading  Company,  bet- 
ter known  here  as  Captain  Healey's  Company.  While  this  com- 
pany is  a  new  comer,  having  l^een  there  only  three  years,  yet  in 
that  time  the  opposition  started  by  it  has  reduced  the  price  of 
living  about  one-half.  This  is  of  the  greatest  importance  lo  the 
development  of  the  country,  and  makes  it  po.ssible  to  work  dig- 
gings that  were  previously  abandoned.  They  have  erected  large 
warehouses,  a  sawmill,  free  reading  room,  billiard  hall  and  many 
fine  cabins.  Their  boat,  the  P.  B,  Weare,  is  a  modern  river  boat, 
and  is  able  to  carry  a  cargo  of  350  tons. 


COAL  CRKEK. 


The  river  below  Forty  Mile  creek  is  bordered  on  both  sides  by 
abrupt  hills  with  no  valleys  whatever,  the  islands  becoming  less 
numerous.  Coal  creek  enters  from  the  east  about  .seven  milus  be- 
low the  mouth  of  Forty  Mile  creek.     It  is  quite  rapid,  and  navi- 


1 


^i 


m    I 


If 


■;  ■■■>; 


#* 

.        i^^ 

k      Hf 


111  ; 


44 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


gable  for  a  few  miles  only.  The  formation  is  limestone,  with 
frequent  croppings  of  coal.  E.Ktensive  leads  of  coal  are  reported 
to  exist  some  distance  from  the  river.  The  coal  of  this  country, 
as  far  as  known,  is  lignite  in  character,  and  seems  of  recent  form- 
ation. In  fact,  manj'  parts  of  the  country  appear  to  be  under- 
goinj.  the  later  processes  of  the  carboniferous  period.  Coal  creek 
cuts  its  way  back  to  a  high  range  of  mountains,  evidently  a  spur 
of  the  Rocky  mountains.  The  river  does  not  cut  this  range,  but 
flows  around  what  appears  to  be  the  terminus.  The  country  .south 
and  east  of  the  range  is  well  timbered,  but  nothing  further  is 
known  of  it.  From  the  mouth  of  Coal  creek  on  to  the  Yukon 
flats  the  characteristics  of  the  river  remain  about  the  same.  The 
current  is  strong,  the  hills  abrupt  and  the  formation  .sand  and 
limestone,  with  conglomerates  and  .shales.  Crystalline  gnei.ss  and 
granite  veins  are  not  uncommon. 


CIRCLK  CITY. 

About  170  miles  from  Forty  Mile  creek,  on  the  west  l)ank,  an 
elevated  table-land  borders  the  river.  This  is  ju^t  within  the 
Yukon  flats.  Here  tiie  new  camp  of  Circle  City  was  founded  in 
the  fall  of  1894.  I*^  is  tlie  distributing-  point  for  the  vast  region  of 
Birch  creek,  and  will  undoubtedly  become  the  metropolis  of  the 
Yukon,  not  only  on  account  of  the  extensive  auriferous  deposits 
known  to  exist  there,  but  i)iincipall\  because  it  is  on  American 
.soil.  More  than  one  luuKhed  men  have  prospected  the  creek  and 
the  bars  adjacent  to  Birch  creek,  and  all  agree  that  it  bids  fair  to 
rival  the  now  famous  Forty  Mile  creek.  On  the  opposite  jiage  is  a 
view  taken  of  the  first  supplies  landed  at  that  point,  September  5, 
1894.  Two  buildings  for  stores  were  soon  un  ler  tonsti notion,  and 
it  is  probable  that  ,v>'>  ii><i'i  passed  the  presert  winter  there.  Tlie 
town  is  laid  off  into  streets,  Main  street  facnig  tlie  river.  It  has 
a  recorder,  who  charges  a  li  e  of  two  iloilar.s  and  fifty  cents  for  re- 
cording locations  of  lots.  A  building  clause  has  to  be  carried 
out  in  order  lo  hold  the  lots. 

A  portage  of  six  miles  westward  from  Circle  City  .strikes  Birch 
creek  200  miles  from  its  mouth,  from  which  point  the  river  is  fol- 
lowed by  boat  to  Crooked  river,  thenct  up  to  the  niine.-i  on  Inde- 
pendence, Mastodon  and  other  creeks.     A  shortei  way  is  by  port 


i'l 


;stone,  with 
ire  reported 
his  country, 
recent  forin- 
o  be  nnder- 
Coal  creek 
ently  a  spur 
s  range,  but 
)untry  south 
g  further  is 
)  the  Yukon 
same.  The 
»n  sand  and 
e  gneiss  and 


est  bank,  an 
:  within  the 

founded  in 
asl  region  of 
:)polis  of  tlie 
ous  deposits 
)u  American 
le  creek  aiul 
;  bids  fair  to 
iite  page  is  a 
September  5, 

ruction,  and 
there.  The 
ver.     It  has 

cents  for  re- 
o  be  carried 

itrikes  Birch 
river  i.s  fol- 
iie.i  on  Inde- 
y  is  by  port- 


r 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


45 


age  across  the  flats  and  over  a  range  of  high  hills  to  the  heads  of 
the  mining  creeks.  The  distance  by  trail,  as  shown  on  the  map 
by  the  doited  lines,  is  about  fifty-two  miles. 


BIRCH  CREKK. 


Birch  creek  was  prospected  some  in  1893,  enough  to  show  that 
the  country  contained  some  gold,  the  first  being  discovered  on 
Malaniute  creek  of  the  north  fork.  Later  gold  was  found  on  otiier 
creeks  by  a  half-breed  Indian.  McCarthy  bar,  on  the  main  creek, 
also  proved  quite  rich.  Some  miners  followed  the  creek  for  350 
miles  and  reported  the  main  creek  to  be  fil!<.<';  vvith  rapids  and  can- 
yons for  that  distance.  Much  of  the  creek  cuts  the  Yukon  flats 
and  other  low  sections  of  the  country,  which  would  necessarily 
give  it  a  milder  current  than  most  of  V\v  streams  running  into  the 
Yukon.  The  south  fork  runs  southwest  :;'v'  drains  that  country 
lying  near  the  head  of  Seventy-Mile  creek.  The  north  fork  drains 
much  country  in  and  adjacent  to  the  Ratzel  mountains. 

In  the  season  of  iScji  nearly  one  hundred  men  prospected  this 
country,  and  as  many  claims  were  staked  off"  on  Mastodon,  Inde- 
pendence and  other  creeks.  Bedrock  here  is  much  nearer  the  sur- 
face than  in  the  Forty-Mile  district,  and  the  above  named  creeks 
Iiave  a  better  grade;  therefore  man>  claims  were  well  opened  up, 
and  some  even  yielded  goid  reluins.  Later  many  men  went  there 
from  the  Forty-Mile  mines.  This  year  will  fitid  many  prospectors 
ill  this  locality,  r.iid  undoubtedly  very  rich  and  exten.sive  creeks 
will  be  located.  Circle  City,  the  distril)uting  point  for  these  mines, 
has  a  much  better  site  than  FortyMile  Post,  and  being  nearer  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  receives  .supplies  first.  The  greatest  draw- 
back to  the  development  of  tlie.se  mines  will  be  the  lack  of  sup- 
plies. The  miners  depend  on  the  snow  and  ice  for  freighting  their 
summer  supplies  to  the  mines.  As  there  is  .scarcely  supplies 
-.lough  in  the  country  to  carry  the  number  wintering  there 
through,  it  will  be  impossible  to  obtain  any  to  freight  to  the 
mine*,  nor  can  prospectors  obtain  supplic.-i  for  a  summer's  pros- 
pecting trip  until  the  firsi.  boats  arrive,  which  \\\\\  be  well  into  the 
summer,  low  late  to  start  on  an  exten.sive  trip.  This  will  occur 
again  next  >«ttr,  unless  the  company  more  than  doubles  the 
amount  of  .supplies  for  that  year,  as  in  all  probability  more  than 
double  the  number  of  men  will  winter  there. 


! 

li 


!  i  ^ 

46 


GUIDK  TO  THE  YUKON 


PREACHER  CREEK. 


Preacher  creek  enters  Hirch  some  sixty  miles  below  the  portage 
and  is  ahont  one  hmulred  and  twenty-five  miles  in  length.  It  has 
been  prospected  very  little,  but  its  head  waters  are  said  to  cut  a 
country  of  very  peculiar  formation.  Two  men  who  prospected 
there  last  year  found  little  gold,  but  much  el.se  of  interest.  They 
expect  to  make  a  second  trip  the  coming  year. 

The  creek  was  named  after  a  preacher  who  made  an  exploration 
trip  of  .some  length  in  search  of  fossils.  It  is  reported  he  found 
high  clay  banks  .some  seventy  miles  from  its  mouth.  These  banks 
were  about  three  hundred  feet  high  and  overlaid  a  layer  of  drift- 
wood some  two  hundred  feet  down.  Much  of  this  driftwood  was 
weU  preserved  and  of  nuich  larger  dimensions  than  any  growth  in 
the  country  at  present,  some  of  the  trees  lieing  fully  four  feet  in 
diameter.  The  creek  is  constantly  undermining  its  banks,  thus 
bringing  down  great  slides  of  clay  and  wood,  which  completely 
fill  the  creek  at  times.  This  goes  to  prove  beyond  a  doubt  that 
the  great  Yukon  flats  were  at  one  tiiuf  a  vast  lake,  much  larger 
than  any  fresh  water  lake  existing  to-day. 


vrKON  FLATS. 


The  Yukon  11  its  are  traversed  by  the  river  from  Circle  City 
to  the  Lower  Ramparts,  a  distance  of  four  hundred  miles.  Their 
width  equals  their  length.  This  tract  includes  the  mouth  of  the 
Porcupine,  Birch  and  .several  smaller  creeks.  At  the  point  the 
river  leaves  these  flats  it  cuts  its  way  through  a  low  range  of 
mountains  called  the  Rampart  mountains.  It  then  turns  to  the 
west  and  follows  the  range  .some  three  hundred  miles  farther. 
This  range  of  mountains  was  unddiibtedly  the  barrier  that  formed 
the  great  lake  of  the  j)ast.  This  lake  nuist  have  been  larger  than 
Great  Slave  lake  and  quite  as  deep.  There  nmst  have  been  a  fall 
mightier  than  Niagara  at  its  outlet  before  the  great  barrier  was 
worn  or  broken  away.  All  this  time  the  mighty  Yukon  and  the 
Porcupine  v>ere  depositing  the  wash  from  hundreds  of  streams 
and  lUDunluins,  forming  tin  flats  of  to-day.  Now  this  silt  is  car- 
ried down  the  river  and  deposited  at  its  mouth  forming  the  delta 
of  the  Yukon.     Some  idea  of  the  enormous  amount  of  sediment 


:lie  portape 
th.  It  has 
lid  to  cut  a 
prospected 
est.     They 

exploration 
d  he  found 
'Miese  banks 
,er  of  drift- 
1  ft  wood  was 
y  growth  in 

four  feet  in 
banks,  thus 

completely 
I  doubt  that 
nuch  larger 


Circle  City 
ties.  Their 
onth  of  the 
le  point  the 
)w  range  of 
turns  to  the 
lies  farther, 
that  formed 
larger  than 
e  been  a  fall 
barrier  was 
kon  and  the 
,  of  streams 
s  silt  is  car- 
ng  the  delta 
of  sediment 


Q 

a 
u 


!ii\ 


--Jt«" 


-F 


(iUIIlK  TO  THK  Yl'KON 


47 


atiiiually  dtposited  may  he  had  by  nolitivj  what  takes  place  riloiij; 
the  bank.-;  of  tlie  tnaiti  river  and  imiiierDiis  tributaries,  upon  the 
Vjreakiiig  up  of  the  ice  in  the  spring.  <  >ften  cakes  of  solid  ice 
eight  feet  thick  and  acres  in  area  come  tearing  down  tlie  river, 
cutting  and  plowing  the  banks  until  they  become  so  undermined 
that  they  scarcely  sustain  their  t)wn  weight,  i.arge  fields  of  ice 
follow,  borne  madly  along  by  the  irresistible  current,  and  strike  the 
overhanging  mass  of  earth.  With  a  roar  like  an  avalanche  the 
high  bank  gives  away  and  is  precipitated  njxm  the  field  of  ice  be- 
low, nearly  sinking  it.  Slowly  rising,  it  throws  off  most  of  its 
weight  of  rocks,  gravel  and  earth.  The  rocks  and  gravel  sink 
but  the  finer  particles  are  kept  moving  along  by  this  rapid  cur- 
rent. A  j)ail  of  this  water  allowed  to  .stand  over  night  will  con- 
tain a  half-inch  of  .sediment  in  the  morning.  The  same  current 
bears  these  ice-fliK's  onward  to  be  deposited  upon  .some  .'•and  bar 
near  the  river's  mouth,  or  to  be  carried  far  out  into  Hehring  sea. 
Nearly  every  cake  gathers  a  load  on  its  long  journey  down,  .some 
carrying  rocks,  others  trees,  .sand  or  clay,  all  helping  to  transform 
and  build  up  in  a  manner  unsurpassed  by  any  other  river  in  the 
world.  Only  .such  rivers  as  ri.se  in  the  south  and  flow  northward, 
carry  such  fields  of  ice  in  the  breaking  up;  the  Yukon's  only 
northern  competitors  are  the  Mackenzie  and  Lena  of  Siberia. 


FOSSILS. 


After  the  waters  of  this  great  lake  subsided,  it  became  the  home 
of  the  mastodon  which  it  is  l)elieved  roamed  this  vast  northern 
waste  in  countless  numbers  and  t)f  a  size  beyond  any  living  thing 
of  the  pn  "i!  age.  Tn.sks  of  fossil  ivory  are  numen)us  through- 
out thes  •  710!  inern  regions  besides  bones  and  teeth  of  a  marvelous 
size.  A.!  islrii.d  known  as  Mammoth  island  seems  to  have  been 
a  burying  nine  for  one  of  these  herds,  remains  being  piled  up  in 
great  profusion.  The  habitat  of  these  animals  .seemed  to  range 
to  the  westward  into  the  Copper  river  district  and  remains  are 
found  throughout  the  Birch  creek  district  and  even  in  the  Ratzel 
mountains.  Nearly  the  whole  basin  furni.shes  .some  fo.ssils,  but 
the  flats  and  country  adjacent  contain  the  greatest  abundance. 
Many  believe  the  unexplored  country  toward  the  head  of  Copper 
river  contains  living  .specimens.     Many  tales  are  told  by  Indians 


T 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


IIM    ill  2.5 


•^  m    111112.2 


140 


12.0 


1.8 


1.25      1.4 

1.6 

■^ 

6"     — 

► 

Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


T 


it- 


w 


'mmmmmm 


48 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


from  that  region  of  huge  woolly  beasts  with  horns  like  the  trunk 
of  the  birch  tree.  They  say  that  in  winter  puffs  of  steam  issue 
from  their  nostrils  like  that  from  a  steamboat.  The  stories  of 
their  size  are  interesting  even  to  one  acquainted  with  the  Mission 
Indians.  Badlam  in  his  Wonders  of  Alaska  tells  of  tusks  bought 
by  the  Alaska  Trading  Company  with  flesh  and  blood  still  ad- 
hering to  them.  He  has  also  heard  of  a  huge  bear  that  inhabits 
the  higher  mountairis  of  the  Yukon  country  whose  legs  are  longer 
on  one  side  than  on  the  other,  thus  facilitating  hislonelj-meander- 
ings  on  the  sides  of  the  cloud-swept  peaks.  I  have  no  doubt  if 
Badlam  had  met  one  of  those  favored  freaks  of  nature  he  would 
have  learned  a  great  deal  more  about  them,  for  it  would  seem 
that  an  animal  thus  constructed  would  experience  great  difficulty 
in  turning  and  making  off  in  the  opposite  direction,  unless  the 
same  providence  had  constructed  it  like  a  double  ender  with 
search-lights  at  either  end. 


LOWER  RAMPARTvS. 


The  Ranipart  mountains  are  followed  by  the  river  many  miles 
after  leaving  the  flats,  and  no  streams  of  any  note  enter  until  the 
Tanana  river  is  reached.  This  river  is  probably  six  or  .se\en 
hundred  miles  long  with  many  tributaries.  It  drains  that  country 
lying  between  the  Copper  river  and  the  Yukon  as  far  south  as  the 
White  river.  This  river  is  little  known  and  the  Indians  Liiere  are 
reported  hostile.  The  country  about  the  head  waters  will  un- 
doubtedly prove  one  of  the  richest  gold  fields  of  the  whole  country 
and  prospectors  will  probably  push  their  way  there  within  the 
next  two  years. 

NUKLl'KYKTO. 


Nuklukyeto  is  situated  on  the  north  bank  just  below  the  mouth 
of  the  Tozikakat  river.  The  Alaska  Conunercial  Company  has  a 
post  here,  run  by  Al.  Meyhue,  who  has  been  in  the  country  for 
more  than  thirty  years.  The  trade  here  is  almost  entirely  with 
the  Indians,  many  of  the  Tanana  Indians  coming  all  the  way  from 
the  head  waters  of  the  Tanana  in  summer  to  trade. 


GU[DE  TO  THE  YUKON 


4» 


:e  the  trunk 
steam  issue 
le  stories  of 
the  Mission 
usks  I)ought 
ood  still  ad- 
hat  inhabits 
gs  are  longer 
ely  meander- 
;  no  doubt  if 
ire  he  would 
;  would  seem 
reat  difficulty 
n,  unless  the 
e  ender  with 


KOYUKUK  RIVER. 


This  river  enters  from  the  north  and  is  the  first  large  river  after 
leaving  the  Tanana.  It  enters  the  Yukon  about  five  hundred 
miles  below  that  river  and  is  navigable  for  many  miles.  It  is 
quite  as  large  as  the  Tanana  but  has  a  much  milder  current.  The 
Alaska  Commercial  Company  has  a  small  steamer  that  supplies 
their  posts  on  this  river  as  well  as  the  missions.  Gold  has  been 
found  on  this  river  in  paying  quantities.  Nulato,  a  trading  post 
of  the  Alaska  Commercial  Company,  is  situated  on  the  same  side 
of  the  river  some  distance  below.  From  here  the  river  is  much 
wider,  j'et  losing  little  of  its  force  of  current.  The  country  pre- 
sents a  samene.ss  on  this  lower  river  that  becomes  monotonous  even 
on  the  down  trip,  with  the  boat  making  as  high  as  twenty- two 
miles  an  hour.  It  must  seem  much  more  monotonous  on  the  up 
trip  on  account  of  the  slow  progress  of  the  boat. 


LOWER  RR'ER  NATIVES. 


tr  many  miles 
inter  until  the 
six  or  seven 
^  that  country 
r  south  as  the 
iaus  liiere  are 
:iters  will  un- 
A'hole  country 
re  within  the 


ow  the  mouth 

ompany  has  a 

le  country  for 

entirely  with 

the  way  from 


Indians  of  an  inferior  class  become  more  numerous  as  the  mouth 
is  approached.  Their  fishing  camps  are  passed  at  almost  every 
turn  of  the  river  and  they  have  fish-traps  at  every  eddy  and  pro- 
tected place.  A  large  number  died  last  winter  ow'ng  to  the  severe 
cold,  floods  and  lack  of  food.  Their  food  consists  almost  entirely 
of  fish,  and  the  only  clothing  worn  by  many  is  made  from  pre- 
pared salmon  skins.  Boots  and  gloves  are  also  made  from  salmon 
skins.  These  Indians  are  lazy  and  it  is  with  difficulty  that  they 
can  be  induced  to  cut  wood  for  the  steamers.  There  are  very  few 
fur-bearing  f.nimals  in  this  section  of  the  country,  hence  wood  is 
about  the  only  means  of  barter  they  have.  It  is  very  abundant 
along  the  banks  of  the  river. 

The  Iiuioko  and  Anvik  rivers  are  the  only  other  streams  of 
any  importance  that  enter  the  Yukon  from  here  on.  After  pass- 
ing those  rivers  the  current  becomes  much  milder  and  the  river 
wider.  Islands  are  passed  near  the  mouth,  some  of  which  have  a 
total  length  of  one  hundred  miles.  The  flats  and  .sand  bars  make 
feeding  and  hatching  ground  for  thousands  of  wild  geese.  The 
mouth  of  the  river  spreads  out  to  a  great  width  and  its  numerous 

channels  are  filled  with  sand  bars.       Probably  hundreds  of  miles 
a 


60 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


of  this  low  land  has  been  filled  in  with  the  silt  brought  down  by 
the  swift  current  of  this  mighty  volume  of  water.  Behring  sea  for 
miles  is  shoaled  to  sue.  an  extent  that  vessels  drawing  more  than 
a  few  feet  of  water  have  to  land  their  cargoes  at  St.  Michael's 
island,  about  sixty  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  the 
river  boats  are  compelled  to  make  this  stretch  of  open  water. 


SAINT  MICHAEL'S  ISLAND. 


•I 


Here  the  trading  companies  of  the  Yukon  district  have  their 
principal  warehouses.  The  Alaska  Commercial  Company  has 
been  established  here  for  years  and  has  fine  painted  buildings, 
presenting  a  pleasing  appearance.  A  new  company,  the  North 
American  Trading  and  Transportation  Company,  is  also  Ijuilding 
fine  large  warehouses  and  f  s  it  is  a  wideawake,  progressive  com- 
pany, it  will  undoubtedly  have  as  fine  Imildings  as  the  other  has. 
They  both  carrj^  a  large  stock  of  goods  through  the  winter  and 
many  men  could  find  comfortable  quarters  here,  if  by  accident 
supplies  run  short  up  the  river,  which  is  liable  to  be  the  case  if 
a  very  great  number  of  men  go  into  the  mines  this  spring. 

The  ice  does  not  leave  the  mouth  of  the  river  and  about  Saint 
Michael's  until  the  first  of  June.  Ships  loaded  for  this  i.sland  sel- 
dom find  it  convenient  to  land  their  cargo  before  June  20.  This 
m.kes  the  running  season  for  the  river  boats  little  more  than  three 
months.  In  that  time  they  can  usually  make  three  trips  to  Forty 
Mile  Post,  extending  one  trip  up  as  far  as  the  Pelly,  if  no  accident 
happens  to  delay  them.  Accidents  are  alway.s  possible  owing  to 
the  constant  changing  of  the  sand  bars.  To  run  a  boat  upon  one 
of  those  bars  means  much  delaj-,  especially  if  it  occurs  on  the  down 
trip.  These  river  boats  will  connect  at  Saint  Michael's  with 
steamers  running  to  Seattle  and  San  Francisco.  A  time-card  cati 
be  found  on  another  page  giving  the  necessary  information  con- 
cerning the  time  of  leaving  points  along  the  route.  These  boats 
connect  with  the  mail  boat  for  Sitka  and  way  pomts.  The  trip 
along  the  coast  is  one  of  great  interest.  Many  noted  points  are 
passed  and  active  volcanos  seen.  Wild  fowl,  fur  seal,  walrus  and 
whale  can  be  seen  from  the  ship's  deck  almost  any  day.  The 
curio  seeker  can  reap  a  rich  harvest,  for  few  who  visit  this  country 
have  time  or  inclination  to  indulge  in  the  collection  of  specimens. 
The  Indians  about  St.  Michael's  are  very  ingenious  and  indus- 


t  down  by 
ring  sea  for 
;  more  than 
.  Michael's 
2r,  and  the 
,vater. 


have  their 
mipany  has 
i  buildings, 
-,  the  North 
Iso  building 
•essive  com- 
e  other  has. 
:  winter  and 

by  accident 

2  the  case  if 
pring. 

about  Saint 
lis  island  sel- 
iie  20.  This 
ire  than  three 
rips  to  Forty 
if  no  accident 
ble  owing  to 
oat  upon  one 

3  on  the  down 
ichael's  with 
time-card  can 
armation  con- 

These  boats 
,ts.  The  trip 
ted  points  are 
1,  walrus  and 
ny  day.  The 
it  this  country 
of  specimens, 
us  and  indus- 


i 


»K' 


GUIDE  TO  THK  YUKON 


51 


trious.  A  collection  there  would  consist  chiefly  of  ivory  fashioned 
into  everything  from  a  symbolic  representation  of  the  history  of 
the  family  ^o  an  expected  addition. 


NAVIGATION  ON  THE  YUKON. 


The  navigable  waters  of  the  Yukon  and  its  tributaries  are  al- 
most unlimited.  The  Lewis  can  undoubtedly  be  ascended  to  the 
foot  of  White  Horse  in  a  suitable  boat,  while  the  lakes  above 
would  furnish  hundreds  of  miles  of  navigable  waters.  The  Pellj' 
could  also  be  ascended  a  good  distance,  while  many  of  its  branches 
are  also  navigable.  The  Stewart,  Tahkeena,  Hootalinqua  and  its 
lake  connections,  would  make  fine  waterways,  while  the  Porcu- 
pine, Tanana,  Koyukuk,  Anvik  and  White  rivers.  Birch  creek, 
Salmon  river  and  many  others,  to  the  extent  of  many  thousand 
miles,  will  in  time  be  navigated  by  steamers.  At  present  there 
are  two  large  boats  running  from  St.  Michael's  to  Pelly  river. 
One,  the  Arctic,  owned  by  the  Alaska  Commercial  Company,  is 
used  to  supply  their  stations  at  Forty-Mile  Post,  Sixty-Mile  and 
Pelly  rivers.  This  company  has  done  a  trading  business  for  many 
yeats  and  has  large  warehouses  at  St.  Michael's,  sixty  miles  from 
the  mouth  of  the  river.  They  also  run  several  smaller  boats  to 
their  stations  along  the  lower  river  and  will  undoubtedly  add  a 
new  and  larger  boat  to  their  fleet  in  the  spring.  The  P.  B.  Weave, 
I  am  informed,  is  the  largest  boat  navigating  these  waters  at  pres- 
ent. It  is  owned  by  the  North  American  Trading  and  Transpor- 
tation Company  and  is  u.sed  to  supply  their  stations  along  the 
river.  It  is  a  large,  modern  river  boat,  with  large  double  boilers, 
and  consumes  about  twenty-five  cords  of  wood  per  day.  The  two 
companies  will  double  the  amount  of  supplies  this  year  and  will 
undoubtedly  be  able  to  supply  all  who  visit  the  mines  the  coming 
season.  Connections  will  be  made  at  St.  Michael's  with  boats  for 
San  Francisco  and  Sound  points.  The  following  passenger  rates 
are  now  charged:  From  Forty-Mile  Post  to  St.  Michael's,  first- 
class,  $50.00,  second  class,  $30.00;  to  San  Francisco,  first-class, 
$175.00,  .second  class,  $150.00.  The  North  American  Trading 
and  Transportation  Company  will  run  passenger  .steamers  from 
San  Francisco  and  Seattle.  The  boars  will  accommodate  about  one 
hundred  pa.ssengers.  Tourists,  miners  and  others  wishing  to  go 
to  the  Yukon  country  without  the  hardships  accompanying  the 


mm 


52 


GUIDE  TO  THK  YUKON 


k  'M 


trip  down  the  river  and  at  a  reasonable  price  will  patronize  the 
North  American  Trading  and  Transportation  Company's  boats. 

TAKU  ROUTE. 


The  Canadian  government  is  making  a  preliminary  survey  of 
this  route  and  will  build  a  trail  within  the  year,  if  such  concessions 
as  are  necessary  can  be  had  from  our  government.  This  trail 
would  open  up  all  their  extensive  country  lying  beyond  the  Coa.st 
range  down  to  the  141st  meridian,  most  of  which  is  a  good  graz- 
ing country,  as  well  as  being  rich  in  minerals.  This  route  leads 
up  the  Taku  Inlet  to  the  Coast  range,  thence  by  a  low  pa.ss  a  dis- 
tance of  about  eighty-five  miles  to  waters  running  into  Lake  Tes- 
lin.  The  pass  is  .said  to  be  timbered  the  entire  distance  and  to 
run  through  a  fine  grazr.ig  country.  By  .striking  the  waters  of 
Teslin  lake,  thence  acro.ss  this  lake  and  down  the  Hootalinqua,  no 
falls  are  encountered  other  than  the  Five  Fingers,  which  offer  no 
great  obstacles.  This  would  always  prove  an  easy  route,  but 
would,  in  case  of  a  trail  by  way  of  Chilkoot  or  White  pass,  be 
u.sed  only  for  the  country  not  reached  by  those  trails,  they  being 
so  much  shorter  than  the  Taku. 

Should  our  goveriunent  grant  such  concessions  as  the  Canadian 
government  will  ask  for,  such  a  trail  would  prove  the  greatest 
detriment  to  our  interests  on  the  Pacific  coast.  Not  only  the 
wholesale  houses  on  the  Sound,  but  the  outfitting  establishments 
of  Juneau  would  suffer  thereby.  Victoria  would  at  once  come 
into  prominence,  and  English  goods  would  take  the  place  of  Amer- 
can  goods.  Not  only  would  this  hold  true  in  their  own  territory, 
but  large  quantities  of  those  goods  would  find  their  way  acro.ss 
the  line  and  supply  miners  on  our  side  of  the  present  imaginary 
boundary.  When  the  boundary  is  definitely  estabjished,  it  will 
be  difficult  to  enforce  custom  regulations.  If  our  government  is 
not  willing  to  assist  in  the  development  of  Alaska,  it  .should  .see 
to  it  that  what  has  been  accompli.shed  by  private  enterprise  .shall 
not  be  injured  by  foreign  competition. 

WHITE  PASS. 


This  is  undoubtedly  the  best  pass,  all  things  con.sidered,  that 
cuts  the  coast  range.     It  is  at  least  one  thousand  feet  lower  than 


If!^ 


0! 
U 

oi 


< 
U 


a 

S 
o 

r. 

< 


',(■■„:  I 


:  f 


i 


Jki 


i 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


53 


the  Chilkoot  and  little  hiji^her  than  the  Taku.  It  is  reported  tim- 
bered the  entire  length.  Its  salt  water  terniimis  is  about  eij^ht}- 
five  miles  north  of  Juneau,  and  ocean  steamers  can  run  up  to  the 
landing  at  all  times,  where  there  is  a  good  townsite,  well  protected 
from  storms.  The  pass  lies  through  a  box  canyon  surrounded  bj- 
high  granite  peaks,  and  is  comparatively  easy.  The  first  seven 
miles  from  salt  water  lie  up  the  bottom  lands  of  the  Skagway 
river  through  heavy  timber.  Then  for  about  seven  miles  farther 
the  way  is  over  piles  of  boulders  and  moraines  which  would  prove 
the  most  expensive  part  of  the  trail.  This  trail  would  not  exceed 
thirty-two  miles  in  length  and  would  strike  Windy  arm  of  Tagish 
lake  or  Taku  arm  coming  in  farther  up  the  lake.  All  of  this  part 
of  the  lake  is  well  timbered  and  accessible  to  Lake  Bennett  and 
its  connections.  White  pass  could  be  used  as  a  mail  route  any 
month  in  the  year. 

CHILKOOT  PASS. 


This  pass  is  the  shortest  of  all  the  passes  but  the  highest  by  at 
least  one  thousand  feet.  It  is  the  one  always  used  by  the  nnners 
and  is  the  route  followed  in  the  pages  of  this  guide.  It  starts  at 
the  head  of  Taiya  inlet  and  follows  the  Ijottom  lands  of  the  Taiya 
river  for  some  eight  miles,  where  it  enters  the  canyon.  The  Sheep 
camp  is  at  timber  line  and  from  there  the  .scene  is  one  of  extreme 
desolation,  occupied  only  by  glaciers  and  moinilain  sheep.  No 
vegetation  of  any  kind  can  be  seen  for  miles  around  the  summit. 
Healey  &  Wilson  have  a  trading  post  and  outfitting  establish- 
ment at  Taiya.  They  will  give  all  necessary  assistance  in  secur- 
ing packers  over  this  trail.  The  total  length  of  this  trail  from 
Wilson's  to  Lake  Lindeman  is  about  twenty-four  miles,  although 
a  .second  short  portage  at  the  foot  of  Lindeman  will  have  to  be 
made.  If  this  trail  should  ever  become  the  improved  route,  this 
piece  of  river  could  be  made  navigable  for  lighters. 


CHILKAT  PASS. 


The  Chilkat  trail  leads  over  the  Chilkat  pa.ss  and  is  about  one 
hundred  and  twenty-five  miles  in  length  from  the  head  of  Chilkat 
inlet  to  where  it  strikes  the  waters  of  the  Tahkeena  river.     This 


'!> 


04 


GUIDE  TO  THK  YUKON 


was  the  old  trail  used  by  the  Indians  to  and  from  the  interior  and 
leads  all  the  way  through  to  Old  Fort  vSelkirk  by  land.  Jack 
Daulton  has  used  this  trail  at  times  in  taking  horses  to  the  interior, 
portaging  to  the  Tahkeena,  then  by  rafl  down  that  rivir  to  the 
Lewis,  thus  proving  that  the  Tahkeena  is  navigal)le  for  a  small 
stern-wheel  steamer  for  a  distance  of  some  seventy  miles. 


;   I 


POSSIULI-   RAILROAD  ROUTE. 


U.\  \ 


As  the  mines  of  the  Yukon  are  developed  and  the  basin  becomes 
populated  with  the  large  number  that  must  necessarily  follow 
within  a  few  years,  means  of  quicker  mail  and  transportation  facil- 
ities will  be  needed.  When  the  Siberian  &  Arctic  railroad  shall 
become  a  reality  trains  could  leave  Chicago  by  way  of  Witniipeg 
and  reach  the  Yukon  basin  in  three  days'  run;  thence  on  to  Hehr- 
ing  straits,  which  could  easily  be  tunneled.  Four  days  out  from 
Ciiicago  would  land  one  on  Siberian  .soil.  This  would  open  up 
the  greatest  commercial  route  the  world  has  ever  known.  Three 
thousand  miles  of  this  route  are  already  built  and  operated  by  the 
Russian  government,  and  with  the  more  liberal  views  of  that 
government,  which  .seem  to  be  assured  in  the  near  future,  and  the 
con.stant  concentration  of  capital  which  is  .seeking  great  enter- 
prises, a  populated  country  through  which  to  run,  and  the  com- 
paratively few  obstacles  in  the  construction  of  such  a  road,  all 
go  to  as.suve  its  success.  At  no  far  di.stant  day  this  railroad  could 
run  parallel  with  the  Rocky  mountains  and  follow  the  high  table- 
land all  the  way  to  the  Yukon  without  encountering  any  obstacles 
whatever  in  an  engineering  sen.se,  and  the  whole  distance  to 
the  straits  would  prove  no  more  difficult  than  building  a  road 
across  our  plain  country.  This  route  would  .soon  become  the 
tourist  route  to  all  Europe.  No  longer  would  the  dangers  of  tlie 
sea  and  the  ever-dreaded  seasickness  be  considered  in  a  contem- 
plated trip  abroad. 

RESOURCES.-copi'ER. 


Copper  will  undoubtedly  prove  in  the  near  future  one  of  this 
country's  greatest  resources.  Ever  .since  Alaska  was  discovered 
the  Indians  have  shown  much  native  copper,  and  mountains  of 


r.UIDR  TO  TIIK  YUKON 


55 


this  ore  are  said  to  exist  in  the  Copper  river  region.  Tliis  region 
is  so  little  known,  however,  that  much  tinv  must  elaj)se  before  it 
will  become  accessible.  The  deposits  on  tlu;  Yukon  and  its  tribu- 
taries must  soon  draw  capital  in  their  direction. 

IKON  .V.M)  COM,. 

Vast  beds  of  iron  and  coal  are  known  to  exist  in  many  i)arts  of 
Alaska.  Ivspccially  is  this  true  of  the  Yukon,  and  wlieii  the 
various  modes  of  travel  .shall  demand  cheap  fuel,  then  another  of 
the  Yukon's  resources  will  com    to  the  front. 

PI,.\TINUM. 
Platinum  is  found  in  nearly  all  the  Yukon  country  in  associa- 
tion with  gold,  and  it  may  some  day  jirove  a  rich   field  for  this 
metal. 


GAME. — MOOSE. 


That  tlie  Yukon  l)asiii  is  a  fine  game  country,  all  who  have  vis- 
ited it  admit.  The  upper  country  abounds  in  moo.se,  bear,  cari- 
bou and  much  smaller  game.  White  river  is  reported  by  the 
Indians  to  be  a  great  moo.se  country,  the  moose  there  growing  to 
a  greater  .size  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  American  continent. 
When  fat  its  flesh  is  always  tender  and  palatable.  This  is  prob- 
ably due  to  the  rapid  growth  and  tenderness  of  all  vegetation.  In 
summer  some  of  the  moose  of  that  region  have  a  wonderful  spread 
of  horns  and  reach  a  weight  of  1,500  pounds.  It  is  one  of  the 
principal  sources  of  food  for  the  Indians  who  find  little  trouble  in 
killing  them  at  all  .seasons  of  the  year.  The  moose,  owing  to  its 
great  size  and  .strength,  can  procure  food  despite  the  deep  .snows 
and  severe  cold.  They  are  not  dainty,  and  will  eat  almost  any- 
thing, .so  that  they  are  fat  even  in  early  .spring.  The  .skins  are 
coarse  and  brown  when  tanned,  and  are  used  by  the  Indians  for 
gloves,  moccasins  and  clothing  and  even  for  their  lodges.  The 
moose,  unlike  other  ruminants,  is  a  fighter  and  the  female,  single- 
handed,  will  protect  her  young  from  a  whole  pack  of  wolves, 
and  the  bull  in  the  fall  is  an  ugly  customer  even  for  the  hunter  to 
tackle 

CARIBOU. 

The  vv  .(odland  cariboi.  is  found  throughout  the  lake  and  upper 
river  couutry.     It  averages  nearly  twice  the  size  of  the  barren 


56 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


Iff 


land  caribou  or  reindeer  and  its  habits  are  also  quite  different. 
It  never  migrates  toward  the  north  in  summer,  but  travels  directly 
the  opposite  way.  The  caribou  here  have  great  powers  of  endur- 
ance and  can  trot  at  a  gait  equal  to  that  of  the  best  horse.  In 
deep  snow  it  is  almost  useless  to  pursue  them,  their  wide  flat 
hoofs  and  the  manner  in  which  they  spread  them,  enabling  them 
to  keep  quite  on  top  of  the  snow.  They  are  much  more  strongly 
built  than  the  barren  land  caribou  and  the  horns  are  much  stronger 
and  rounder.  This  species  is  almost  untamable  and  shows  no  in- 
clination to  work  like  their  cousins  in  the  Bald  hills. 

BARREN  LAND  CARIBOU  OR  ARTIC   REINDEER. 

This  animal,  altogether  different  from  the  woodland  caribou, 
occupies  the  Bald  hills  near  the  Acrtic  circle  where  food  is  so 
scarce  that  it  is  constantly  on  the  move,  having  to  migrate  to  the 
south  in  winter.  In  the  severest  winters  its  range  is  many  hun- 
dred miles  in  that  direction.  While  it  and  the  woodland  caribou 
were  originally  of  one  species,  its  mode  of  living  differs  so 
widely  from  its  cousin  that  its  habits  and  appearance  have 
changed  until  ii  can  no  longer  be  considered  a  very  near  relative 
to  the  noble  monarch  of  the  woods,  that  leads  a  life  of  perfect  idle- 
ness and  plenty  in  the  rich  pine-clad  lands  to  the  south.  It  is  not 
to  be  wondered  that  with  their  decrease  in  size  their  manner  and 
temper  have  also  changed,  and  that,  with  a  little  coaxing,  they 
readily  become  beasts  of  burden.  When  the  time  comes  for  the 
dogs  to  give  way  to  their  more  favored  successors,  everybody  in 
this  great  country  will  rejoice.  The  past  five  winters  about  Forty- 
Mile  creek  have  been  unusually  severe  and  great  herds  have 
ranged  further  south  than  usual.  It  is  estimated  that  no  less 
than  five  thousand  were  killed  last  year  in  this  vicinity.  The 
herds  are  reported  to  number  hundreds  of  thousands.  Their 
horns,  which  are  counted  by  the  hundreds  on  the  Bald  hills,  are 
more  slender  and  have  a  much  greater  spread  than  the  woodland 
caribou,  thus  cau.sing  them  little  difficulty  in  ranging  the  sparsely 
wooded  country.  All  are  provided  with  the  snow  .shovel,  reaching 
quite  down  to  the  point  of  the  nose,  to  assist  them  in  procuring 
the  reindeer  moss  and  lichens  in  the  country  they  inhabit.  This 
is  undou])tedly  the  reason  why  the  female,  as  well  as  the  nmle,  is 
provided  with  antlers.  The  endurance  of  these  animals,  if  not 
over  estimated,  is  wonderful,  and  the  ease  with  which  they  make 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


57 


long  journeys  through  deep  snow  or  over  the  soggj^  moss  of  this 
country  would  well  fit  them  for  the  sleigh  or  freighter. 

BEAR. 

There  are  many  species  of  bear  in  Alaska,  and  probably  the  St. 
Tvlias  grizzly  attains  a  greater  size  than  any  other  bear  in  the 
world.  If  he  is  not  a  fighter,  he  is  surely  not  a  coward.  This 
bear  is  found  in  the  St.  Elias  Alps  and  many  of  the  ranges  of 
Alaska,  but  is  more  common  in  the  high  ranges  of  mountains  east 
of  the  Yukon  river,  below  Sixty-Mile  creek.  On  the  Klondyke 
river  they  are  so  numerous  as  to  prevent  the  Indians  from  hunting 
there  when  fish  are  plenty.  This  bear,  Ike  the  whole  Lear  fam- 
ily, is  a  great  fish  eater.  It  is  during  the  fish  season  onlj-  that 
this  bear  leaves  its  haunts  in  the  high  mountains  for  the  lowlands. 
It  likes  variety  and  is  more  of  a  meat  eater  than  its  less  dignified 
brother,  the  common  or  brown  bear.  Several  men  who  have  come 
in  contact  with  this  bear  remember  it  to  the  extent  of  a  leg  or  arm, 
and  even  think  themselves  lucky  to  escape  with  their  lives.  Some 
of  the  skins  of  this  bear  are  enormous  in  size,  and  one  skull  I  ex- 
amined was  beyond  comparison  with  anything  in  the  bear  line  I 
have  ever  seen.  This  St.  Klias  grizzly  when  young  looks  almost 
white  at  a  distance.  It  stands  higher  than  other  bear  and  is  wary, 
even  in  this  remote  region,  beyond  any  animal  I  have  ever  hunted. 
On  the  other  hand,  the  brown  and  black  bear  of  this  region  are 
easily  approached,  and  especially  when  nosing  along  the  banks  of 
streams  searching  for  food.  In  one  case  we  actually  ran  our  boat 
within  thirty  feet  of  one  on  a  clear  morning,  while  our  portable 
stove  was  yet  burning,  having  cooked  breakfast  in  the  boat. 

MOUNTAI>f    GOAT. 

This  animal,  while  probably  smaller  than  the  Rocky  mountain 
goat  further  south,  is  identical.  Us  weight  will  average,  perhaps, 
one  hundred  pounds,  and  both  sexes  have  horns.  Its  home  is  on 
the  cloud-swept  peaks,  surrounded  b}'  Nature's  .solitudes,  and  it 
.seems  most  content  in  its  gloomy  surroundings,  when  the  thunder- 
bolt goes  crashing  down  the  rugged  sides  of  the  canyon,  or  where 
the  steeps  are  swept  by  the  mighty  avalanche.  Its  coat  is  well 
adapted  to  its  rugged  home.  Under  the  long  outer  hair  a  fleecy 
wool  protects  it  in  its  wonderful  leaps  from  rock  to  rock.  Its  legs 
are  straight  and  stiff  and  its  horns  are  lilack.  The  pelt  makes 
fine  robes  and  is  much  prized  by  the  Indians. 


58 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


it  ■ 


1 


^1 : 


11  »i> 


MOUNTAIN   SHKEP. 

Tliis  animal  is  found  throughout  Alaska,  being  more  numerous 
in  the  Coast  range  of  mountains  than  in  the  interior.  It  attains 
a  much  larger  size  than  the  goat,  and  a  ram  may  often  he  found 
weighing  three  hundred  pounds.  It  is  among  the  wariest  of  all 
hoofed  game  of  the  American  continent.  It  is  hardlj'  worth  the 
time  and  trouble  that  is  usually  consumed  in  securing  it.  Its  coat 
is  of  light  gray  color  and  some  hunters  claim  a  great  delicacy  for 
its  flesh. 

I.YNX. 

T-ie  North  American  lynx  is  abundant  throughout  the  upper 
river  and  lake  country.  It  probably  attains  a  larger  size  there 
than  in  any  other  part  of  the  continent.  It  is  easily  trapped  and 
any  rifle  kills  it  readily.  Although  large  and  strong,  its  tenacitj'- 
of  life  is  far  below  all  other  species  of  the  cat  family.  The  pelt  is 
finely  furred  and  makes  excellent  robes.  Its  principal  food  is  the 
rabbit,  which  abounds  throughout  that  country.  Its  legs  and  feet 
are  large  and  powerful  and  well  covered  with  hair,  giving  it 
rather  a  clumsy  appearance  which  is  turning  to  one  of  ludicrous- 
ness  when  frightened.  At  such  times  tlie  .short,  stubbed  tail  stands 
erect,  the  back  is  arched,  and  with  whiskers  .standing  straight  out 
it  makes  off  by  a  succession  rjf  spasmodic  jumps  in  a  way  that 
often  totally  disconcerts  even  the  old  hunter. 


if, 'I 
't;i;l 


11. 


WOLVES. 

Alaska,  like  all  of  North  America,  is  more  or  less  inhabitated 
b}'  wolves.  The  gra^'  timber  wolf  of  average  size  is  found  there. 
It  is  so  wary  as  to  be  .seldom  seen  by  man.  It  has  all  the  cunning 
of  the  fox  and  like  all  varieties  is  a  coward,  except  when  found  in 
great  numbers.  In  the  interior  they  are  numerous.  In  parts  of 
the  Coast  country  they  exist  in  such  numbers  that  no  deer  are 
found  on  the  main  land  along  the  whole  coast,  although  the  is- 
lands are  exceedingly  well  stocked  with  them. 

WOLVERINE. 

This  animal  is  probably  more  plentiful  throughout  the  upper 
river  and  lake  sections  than  any  other  part  of  the  world.  Its 
peculiar  habits  and  singular  appearance  are  little  known  even  to 
most  naturali.sts.  I  canmt  recall  ever  having  .seen  it  in  captivity. 
The  body  is  heavy  and  covered  with  long  hair  and  fur  much 


*if 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


59 


prized  by  tlie  Indians  as  trimming  for  their  winter  garments.  Its 
legs,  although  short,  do  not  prevent  il  from  making  long  jour- 
neys through  deep  snow.  As  there  is  scarcely  any  limit  to  its  food 
capacity,  it  is  continually  on  the  move,  yet  so  wary  and  careful 
that  it  is  seldom  seen. 

FISH. 

While  the  salmon  is  by  far  the  most  important  fish  of  the  Yu- 
kon there  are  many  varieties  of  fine  fish,  the  ever  cold  water  keep- 
ing their  flesh  hard  and  palatable  at  all  seasons  of  the  year. 
Probably  next  to  the  salmon  in  importance  comes  the  white  fish, 
of  which  there  are  several  varieties,  some  reaching  a  good  size. 
TlH;y  are  found  throughout  almost  the  entire  river  basin. 

Lake  trout  of  a  good  size  are  found  everywhere  in  the  lake 
country.  A  species  of  fish  known  to  the  miner  as  lake  cod,  is 
also  found  in  the  lakes.  It  seems  to  be  a  cross  between  the  sal- 
mon and  white  fish,  having  characteristics  of  each.  It  is  of  go'xl 
size  and  rises  readily  to  a  troll.  Throughout  the  .summer  months 
landlock  salmon,  similar  to  those  of  Maine  and  Canada,  abound 
in  the  lakes.  Grayling  or  arctic  trout  is  found  in  the  rivers.  It 
rises  readily  to  a  fly,  the  .small  black  being  the  best.  A  small 
piece  of  black  thread  fastened  around  the  hook  will  answer  the 
purpose.  Thej'  frequent  the  mouths  of  sr.iall  .streams  and  falls 
and  are  found  in  great  numbers  about  the  canyons  and  White 
Horse  rapids.  Pike  are  numerous  about  the  lower  river,  while 
the  sucker  is  found  everywhere.  Miners  provided  with  gill  nets 
need  have  no  fear  of  starving.  Along  the  river  anywhere  in  the 
summer  and  fall  by  such  means  they  could  readily  lay  in  a  sup- 
ply sufficient  to  last  throughout  the  winter. 


DISCOVERY  OF  GOLD  F^ 


i'LIKON  BASIN. 


There  seems  to  be  no  definite  authority  as  to  when  and  where 
gold  was  first  discovered  in  tlie  Yukon  basin.  No  two  miners 
agree  on  this  subject.  Gold  is  reported  to  have  been  found  by 
the  Hudson  Bay  Company's  men  early  in  the  .sixties.  George 
Holt  is  credited  by  Dawson  as  probably  the  first  white  man  to 
cross  the  Coast  range  for  the  purpo.se  of  prospecting.  Tlie  date 
of  Holt's  journey  is  given  as  187^  nd  whether  he  followed  the 
trail  over  the  Chilkoot  or  White  pass  is  not  certain.     He  de- 


60 


GUIDE  TO  THR  YUKON 


I'l  -ji 


f,  . 


I    ' 


scended  the  lakes  to  Lake  Marsh  then  followed  the  Indian  trail  to 
the  Hootalinqua,  returning  by  the  same  route  in  the  fall.  The 
Coast  Pilot  gives  the  date  of  Holt's  journey  as  1872  or  1874.  On 
his  return  he  reported  having  found  coarse  gold  near  or  on  the 
Hootalinqua  river  and  while  no  coarse  gold  has  since  been  found 
in  that  locality  the  bars  of  that  river  have  yielded  much  flour 
gold.  This  lends  some  color  to  Holt's  story  which  may  yet  be 
confirmed.  In  1880  a  prospecting  party  was  organized  at  Sitka 
mider  the  leadership  ot  Edward  Bean.  They  established  friendly 
relations  with  the  Chilkats  and  Chilkoots  and  were  permitted  to 
cross  the  range  by  way  of  Chilkoot  pass  to  Lake  Lindeman, 
where  they  built  boats  ajul  descended  the  Lewis  as  far  as  the  Hoot- 
alinqua. The  party  numbered  about  twenty-five,  one  of  whom 
informed  Dav  son  that  gold  was  found  in  a  small  stream  fifteen 
miles  above  the  canyon  the  diggings  yielding  $2.50  per  day.  The 
same  year  Slim  Jim,  now  residing  at  Juneau,  and  John  Macken- 
zie crossed  the  Chilkoot  pass  and  probably  other  parties  followed 
within  the  j'ear.  According  to  the  Coast  Pilot  a  party  of  four  mim- 
ers  crossed  the  range  in  188 1  and  descended  the  Lewis  as  far  as 
Big  Salmon  river,  which  they  ascended  for  some  200  miles,  finding 
gold  o'l  all  of  its  bars  some  of  which  paid  wtil.  This  find  may 
be  characterized  as  the  first  gold  discovered  in  paying  quantities 
in  the  Yukon  basin. 

In  1884  and  1885  some  mining  was  done  on  the  Pelly  and 
Hootalinqua  rivers.  Some  miners  reached  the  Stewart  in  the 
spring  of  1886  and  Ca.ssiar  bar  was  also  located  the  .same  year  and 
activeh'  worked  during  the  season.  This  was  tlie  richest  bar  ever 
located  on  the  Yukon  or  any  of  its  tributiries  yielding  many 
thousands  of  dollars.  Late  in  the  autumn  of  the  same  year  coarse 
gold  was  discovered  on  Forty  Mile  creek.  The  announcement  of 
this  discovery  drew  off  all  the  miners  from  the  upper  river  countiy. 
In  1887  a  miner  named  Williams  perished  on  the  .summit  of  Chil- 
koot pass  in  trying  to  bring  out  the  news.  The  bars  of  Forty 
Mile  creek  were  worked  for  a  few  years  at  good  profit,  but  .since 
the  discovery  of  coarse  gold  in  the  gulches  they  have  been  aban- 
doned. It  may  be  truly  said  that  mining  in  this  country  is  onlj- 
begun  and  that  only  a  few  of  the  most  acce.ssible  streams  have 
even  been  prospected.  All  the  larger  rivers  of  the  upper  country 
furnish  flour  gold  which  increases  in  coarseness  as  the  rivers  are 
ascended.     Thus  it  is  clear  that  the  surrounding  gulches  in  many 


y  and 
ill  the 

ear  and 
ir  ever 
many 
coarse 

neiit  of 
luntry. 

ofChil- 
Forty 
t  since 
n  aban- 
is  only 
IS  have 
country 
vers  are 
n  many 


W 
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U 

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,-J 

> 
H 

0! 


O 
C 


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1 

m 
mi 

(1 
1 

GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


61 


places  must  furnish  exceedingly  rich  diggings.  The  territory  cut 
by  these  streams  is  almost  unlimited.  One  hundred  thousand 
men  could  prospect  the  Yukon  basin  and  be  lost  to  one  another. 
The  greatest  drawback  is  the  limit  of  supplies.  This  will  be  over- 
come in  the  near  future  as  the  companies  there  at  present  are 
wideawake  to  the  needs  and  possibilities  of  the  country.  I  can 
see  only  a  bright  future  for  the  entire  Yukon  basin  as  a  mining 
country,  not  only  in  the  auriferous  deposits  but  in  the  vn«t  leads 
of  quartz  found  throughout  the  entire  region. 


SOURCE  OF  THE  YUKON. 


Much  controversj-  from  time  to  time  has  been  indulged  in  as  to 
the  true  source  of  the  Yukon,  and  as  to  its  name.  The  name 
Pellj'  was  given  to  the  whole  river  down  to  the  Porcupine  by  early 
explorers,  while  the  name  Yukon  was  first  applied  in  1846  by  Mr. 
J.  Bell  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company.  He  reached  the  main 
river  by  descending  the  Porcupine  from  the  Mackenzie,  and  called 
it  by  its  Indian  name.  R.  Campbell,  an  officer  of  the  Pludson 
Bay  Company,  also  descended  the  Pelh'  as  far  as  the  Porcupine, 
and  named  the  Lewis,  Stewart  and  White  rivers.  But  not  until 
the  publishing  of  the  Coast  survey  map  of  i85g  did  the  river  be- 
come generally  known  as  the  Yukon  as  far  up  as  the  Pelly. 
Schwatka,  who  afterwards  made  an  official  exploration  of  the 
river,  changed  every  name,  never  offering  the  pretext  of  an  excuse. 
Thus  the  nomenclature  of  the  Yukon  and  its  tributaries  became 
further  confused.  Schwatka  applied  the  name  Yukon  to  the 
Lewis,  giving  Lake  Lindeman  as  its  true  .source.  There  was 
some  justification  for  this  inasmuch  as  the  Lewis  carries  the 
greater  volume  of  water.  Lake  Lindeman  and  its  connections,  it 
would  seem,  are  much  smaller  and  shorter  than  the  Toko  Arm 
and  its  connections.  Thus  while  the  Lewis  carries  the  larger  vol- 
ume of  water,  it  is  far  shorter  and  drains  a  smaller  country  than 
either  the  Hootal'nqua  or  the  Pelly.  The  Lewis,  draining  as  it 
does  the  Coast  range  with  its  perpetual  snow  and  glaciers,  main- 
tains its  volume  of  water  loitg  after  the  Hootaiinqua  and  Pelly 
have  reached  their  lowest  summer  level.  Yet  the  Pelly  is  bj-  far 
the  longer  river  and  enough  is  known  of  the  Hootaiinqua  to  prove 
it  much  longer  than  the  Lewis.     Those  rivers  drain  a  compara- 


V  : 


62 


(JUiniv  TO  THK  YUKON 


lively  dry  country,  the  snowfall  being  light  and  the  rainfall  even 
lighter,  therefore  the  true  source  of  the  Yukon  yet  remains  to  be 
definitelv  settled. 


CLIMATE. 


Ill 


II 

m 


The  climate  in  the  lake  region  and  down  to  old  Fort  Yukon  is 
although  cold  in  winter  and  warm  in  summer,  very  agreeable. 
The  snow  in  the  upper  river  country  never  exceeds  three  or  four 
feet,  often  hardly  two.  In  summer  little  rain  falls  except  during 
an  occasional  thunder  storm.  The  .summer  .season  is  truly  one 
long  dream  of  sunshine,  due  to  the  protection  of  the  high  Coast 
range  which  precipitates  tin-  ever  pre.seut  humidity  of  the  coa.st, 
leaving  the  interior  dry.  The  general  direction  of  the  winds  is 
inland  in  summer  and  directly  opposite  in  winter.  This  is  caused 
by  the  rising  of  the  hot  air  of  the  interior  in  summer  and  in  win- 
ter by  the  existence  of  a  persistent  north  wind  which  easily  forces 
the  coast  breezes  seaward.  The  winters,  while  cold,  are  so  devoid 
of  humidity  that  the  cold  is  easily  endured  and  one  .suffers  less 
when  the  thermometer  registers  forty  below  than  on  the  coast  at 


zero. 


WINTER  CLOTHES. 


m 


m 


B\ 


Most  of  the  miners  adopt  the  native  custom  and  dress,  to  a  cer- 
tain extent.  The  boots  are  of  .several  varieties,  most  of  which  are 
made  bj-  the  coa.st  Indians.  The  water  boot  is  made  of  seal  and 
walrus  skins,  while  the  dry  weather  or  winter  boot  is  made  in  an 
endless  variety  of  .styles,  some  having  fur-trimmed  legs  elaborately 
designed,  giving  them  a  pleasing  appearance.  They  wear  well 
and  range  in  price  from  two  to  five  dollars  per  pair.  Trousers  are 
often  made  of  Siberian  fawn  skin  and  the  skin  of  the  marmot  or 
ground  squirrel.  The  upper  garment,  called  a />ar/^«,  is  usually 
made  of  marmot  skins  and  trimmed  with  wolverine  around  the 
hood  and  lower  edge,  the  long  hair  taken  •from  the  sides  of  the 
wolverine  being  used  for  the  hood.  This  hair  is  sometimes  five 
or  six  inches  in  length,  thereby  protecting  the  face  of  the  person 
wearing  the  hood.  Wolverine  skins  are  prized  very  highly  on  the 
coast  of  Behring  sea,  and  as  that  animal  does  not  inhabit  the  coast, 
the  skins  are  bought  by  the  traders  in  the  lake  country  and  sold 


> ' 


pi  ;* 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON  68 

to  the  inhabitants  of  tlie  coast.  In  some  instances  they  are 
bought  hi  San  Francisco  and  taken  up  to  this  fur-bearing  country 
for  trade.  The  women's />rt;7iv/  differs  slightly  from  that  worn  by 
the  men,  being  cut  up  at  the  sides  some  ten  inches  and  rounded 
at  the  bottom  like  a  skirt.  Some  of  these  come  all  the  way  from 
Siberia,  and  are  works  of  art.  Some  are  made  of  fawn  skins  and 
trimmed  with  the  fur  of  the  white  wolf.  The  inside  is  beautifully 
emi)roidered  with  colored  silks  and  ornamented  with  otter's  fur 
and  dyed  feathers.  Some  of  \.htsc  parkas  cost  as  high  as  one  hun- 
dred dollars.  Good,  warm  flannels  can  be  worn  under  these  and 
the  whole  outfit  will  weigh  less  than  the  ordinary  clothes  worn  in 
a  country  where  the  weather  gets  down  to  zero.  They  have  an 
attractive  an  unique  appearance,  and  are  rather  enjoyed  after  once 
worn.  They  are  almost  cold  proof.  For  bedding  the  best  blank- 
ets to  be  obtained  are  used;  also  fur  robes,  those  made  of  lynxs' 
skins  being  about  the  best,  considering  price  and  wear.  A  good 
lynx  robe  sells  for  one  hundred  dollars.  Bear,  mink  and  red  fox 
robes  are  also  used.  The  arctic  hare  makes  cheap  and  nice  robes, 
as  well  as  socks  to  be  worn  with  the  skin  boots. 


NEW  DISCOVERY  AT  COOK  INLET. 


Cook  Inlet  has  been  prospected  for  many  years,  but  with  little 
success,  although  flour  gold  is  foimd  all  along  the  coast.  This 
washes  in  with  a  fine  magnetic  sand,  and  although  worked  for 
some  time  in  the  short  summer  only  small  wages  have  been  made. 
One  surface  claim,  after  running  a  ditch  .some  di.stance  for  water, 
was  worked  with  some  success.  This  was  on  the  east  coa.st  of  the 
inlet.  Another  claim,  located  on  the  Turnagain  Arm,  has  been 
worked  for  some  time  wi  .h  better  results,  as  high  as  ten  dollars  per 
day  being  made.  This  attracted  some  attention,  and  in  the  spring 
of  1894  twenty  men  went  to  that  locality.  New  diggings  were 
located  that,  according  to  report,  are  quite  rich,  as  high  as  twenty 
dollars  per  day  being  made.  The  gold  is  of  a  coarse  character, 
and  is  located  over  the  ridge  from  Turnagain  Arm  on  the  small 
creek  that  enters  near  its  mouth.  Bedrock  lies  near  the  surface, 
and  the  creeks  are  said  to  have  a  good  grade.  Nuggets  weighing 
upwards  of  one  ounce  were  found,  and  the  men  from  whom  I 
learned  the  above  seemed  very  sanguine  over  the  prospects,  and 


■f, 

J" 

k 


64 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


t'-'V 


1st 


i1 


Itr 


expected  to  return  this  spriiij;  with  ])n)vi.sioiis  for  a  lonj;  stay. 
To  test  thorn,  I  tried  to  iiiil)iie  thciu  with  the  Yukon  excitement 
by  telling  them  of  the  numerous  new  and  rich  finds  in  that  coun- 
try, but  they  would  not  think  of  leaving  their  prospects. 


THE  YUKON  RIVER. 


What  the  Amazon  is  to  South  America,  the  Mississippi  to  the 
central  portion  of  tlie  United  States,  the  Yukon  is  to  Alaska.  It 
is  a  great  inland  highway,  wiiich  makes  it  po.ssible  for  the  explorer 
to  penetrate  that  unknown  country  where  heat  and  cold  for  ages 
have  contended  for  the  mastery,  to  reveal  to  the  world  the  treas- 
ures so  long  held  secret  in  that  ice-vaulted  region.  A  wonderful 
story  will  be  unfolded  as  the  mysteries  are  brought  to  light;  l)Ut 
the  revelation  (jf  the  wonders  therein  contained  will  of  necessity 
be  made  very  .slowly,  for  the  rea.son  that  the  only  key  to  this 
frozen,  rock-ribbed  region  is  carried  l)y  the  king  of  day  in  his  tri- 
umphant march  through  the  skies,  and  he  permits  the  use  of  it 
for  only  a  brief  period  during  the  summer  of  eight  to  ten  weeks. 
But  were  it  not  for  this  great  artery,  the  Yukon  river,  which  goes 
pulsating  for  2,600  miles  through  the  northwe.st,  bidding  defiance 
to  the  frost  king,  with  his  rivers  of  ice  and  mountains  of  snow, 
the  world  would  remain  in  ignorance  of  the  untold  wealth  of  the 
interior  of  Alaska. 

The  Yukon  has  its  source  in  the  Rocky  mountains  of  British 
Columbia  and  the  Coast  Range  mountains  in  southeastern  Ala.ska, 
about  125  miles  from  the  city  of  JuJieau.  This  branch  of  the  Yu- 
kon, which  is  known  as  the  Lewis  river  for  357  miles,  the  writer 
has  fully  explored,  and  a  de.scription  of  the  same  is  given  in  the 
preceding  pages  of  this  book.  The  branch  that  heads  in  British 
Columbia  is  known  as  the  Pelly  river  and  is  600  miles  in  length. 
The.se  two  Inanches  unite  and  are  then  known  as  the  Yukon.  At 
the  confluence  of  the  Lewis  and  Pelly  rivers  is  located  Fort  Sel- 
kirk. The  Yukon  proper  is  2,044  "liles  in  length  and  is  navigable 
the  entire  distance  for  flat-bottom  boats  with  a  carrying  capacity 
of  from  four  to  five  himdred  tons.  From  Fort  Selkirk  the  Yukon 
flows  northwest  400  miles,  touching  the  Arctic  circle;  thence  .south- 
west for  a  distance  of  1,600  miles,  where  it  empties  into  Behring 
.sea.     It  drains  niore  than  600,000  square  miles  of  territory  and 


iiii 


Mr 


'f 


m 


i 


Bn 


guidp:  to  the  yukon 


65 


discharges  one-third  more  water  into  Behring  sea  than  does  the 
Mississippi  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  It  is  sixty  miles  wide  at  its 
mouth  and  very  shallow,  which  prevents  its  navigation  by  sea- 
going vessels.  Fifteen  hundred  miles  inland  the  river  widens  out 
from  one  to  ten  miles  and  a  thousand  islands  send  the  channel  in 
as  many  different  directions,  and  only  natives  who  are  thoroughly 
familiar  with  the  river  are  entrusted  to  pilot  boats  up  the  stream 
during  the  season  of  low  water. 

Unlike  the  Amazon  or  Mississippi,  with  their  borders  of  low- 
lands, receding  hills  and  fiat,  swampy  districts,  the  Yukon  has 
sawed  mountain  chains  vertically  in  twain  and  forced  its  way 
through  granite  walls,  which  have  been  chiseled  into  all  sorts  of 
fantastic  forms  by  the  glaciers  of  long  ago.  An  unending  pano- 
rama of  grandeur  greets  the  eye  of  the  traveler  in  the  months  of 
June,  July  and  August,  as  he  is  borne  along  on  the  current  of  this 
mighty  stream,  which  is  only  second  in  size  to  the  largest  river  of 
the  world.  Its  banks  are  fringed  with  flowers,  carpeted  with  the 
all-prevailing  moss  or  tundra;  birds  innumerable  sing  out  a  wel- 
come from  every  tree  top,  and  pitch  your  tent  where  you  will  in 
midsummer,  a  bed  of  ro.ses,  a  clump  of  poppies  and  a  bunch  of 
bluebells  will  adorn  your  canip:ng  place.  One  realizes  that  he  is 
in  a  land  of  paradoxes.  He  will  see  c  giant  glacier  sleeping  on 
top  the  mountain  wall,  along  beside  wliich  he  will  see  in  bloom 
flowers  of  almost  endless  variety.  About  September  25th  the 
scene  of  beauty  is  suddenly  changed,  when  Winter  King  advances, 
sending  the  alcoholic  column  ei-;hty  degrees  l)elow  zero,  the  birds 
to  the  .southland,  the  white  man  to  his  cabin,  the  Indian  to  his 
hut  and  the  bear  to  his  .sleeping  chamber  in  the  mountains. 
Every  stream  becomes  a  river  of  ice,  every  hill  a  mountain  of 
snow,  and  the  valleys  of  beautiful  flowers  are  changed  into  a  scene 
of  eternal  whiteness. 


INDIANS  ALONG  THE  YUKON. 


In  making  a  journey  into  the  interior  of  Alaska  and  down  the 
Yukon  river,  one  comes  in  contact  with  ten  different  tribes,  or 
remnants  of  tribes,  of  Indians.  The  Chilkats,  who  live  in  the 
country  immediately  surrounding  Lynn  canal,  are  the  largest  and 
most  powerful  tribe  of  all.     Tliey  number  only   1,000  and  are 


"4 


66 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


h':\: 


r-.i 


m 


m 


m 


diminishing  rapidly  every  year  because  of  the  civilizing  (?)  influ- 
ence of  strong  drink  and  its  attendant  vices,  which  the  whites 
have  introduced  among  them.  They  are  avaricious,  shrewd  and 
tricky,  always  a  match  for  the  white  trader  in  driving  a  bargain. 
Thej^  will  subject  themselves  to  the  most  excruciating  labor  and 
hardships  for  days  and  weeks  for  a  few  dollars  in  silver.  They 
Avill  make  long  journeys  across  the  mountains  into  the  interior 
with  heavy  loads  upon  their  backs,  cl'inb  the  mountain  steeps, 
struggle  across  great  glaciers,  wade  icy  streams,  and,  in  a  thinly 
clad,  half-.starved  condition,  endure  privations  from  which,  to  the 
tourist,  it  would  seem  death  would  be  a  welcome  relief. 

All  the  tribes  of  the  upper  Yukon  bear  a  close  resemblance  to 
each  other  in  form  and  features,  which  are  not  unlike  the  Shcasft 
Indian  of  Puget  Sound.  The  "Sticks"  are  probably  the  most 
stalwart  of  any.  They  lay  claim  to  the  distinction  of  being  "  all 
same  as  Boston  man."  I  thought,  however,  that  I  could  see  some 
slight  chance  for  improven.ent,  but  not  being  a  resident  of  the  Hub 
I  had  no  quarrel  with  them  on  that  scot: 

Until  recent  years  the  natii^esof  the  Yukon  have  had  to  depend 
entirely  upon  game  and  fish  for  food  and  for  this  reason  many  of 
the  tibes  have  no  permanent  abiding  place  but  follow  tlie  game 
from  one  section  of  the  country  to  another.  They  are  good  hunt- 
ers and  show  great  skill  in  the  management  of  their  birch  bark 
canoes  in  the  swift  waters  and  rapids  of  the  mountain  streams. 
All  the  Indians  of  the  I'pper  river  dress  in  the  garb  of  civilization. 
Traders  bring  large  quantities  of  food  and  clothing  up  the  river, 
thus  affording  an  opportunity  for  the  natives  to  exchange  their 
furs  and  dried  fish  for  the  necessaries  of  life,  which,  to  an  average 
Indian  means  plenty  of  tobacco,  a  little  fire-water,  a  gun  and 
ammunition.  There  are  three  'm  four  mi.ssions  along  the  river  and 
as  a  rule  the  missionaries  are  well  received.  Rev.  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Bumpus  have  had  charge  of  the  mi.ssion  at  Forty  Mile  Post  for 
the  past  three  years.  There  are  200  comnuinicants  at  this  place 
who  attend  all  the  services  of  the  sanctuary  as  religiously  and  regu- 
larly as  they  light  their  pipes  after  a  hearty  repast  on  nioo.se  meat 
and  dried  fish. 

The  Indians  make  themselves  u.seful  in  many  ways  about  the 
trading  posts  —  sawing  lumber,  building  low  cabins,  unloading 
.steamers,  acting  as  guides  to  miners  while  crossing  the  country, 


IM 


ii 


wmmmtm^^a^m 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


67 


packing  provisions  into  the  miners  during  the  summer  and  haul- 
ing supplies  on  dogs  sledges  during  the  winter. 

Further  down  the  river  the  Indians  are  not  so  thrift}'.  Their 
principal  diet  is  fish,  seal  oil  and  berries.  Their  hovels  are  about 
ten  feet  square  on  the  ground  and  have  a  slanting  roof.  About 
four  feet  above  the  ground  poles  are  placed  across  serving  as  joists. 
The  space  above  the  poles  is  utilized  for  storing  away  dried  fish, 
game,  seal  skins  filled  w'th  berries  preserved  in  oil,  which  are  a 
great  luxury  among  the  natives.  The  space  below  the  poles, 
which  is  only  high  enough  for  the  inmates  to  sit  tailor-like  fash- 
ion with  head  and  shoulders  bent  forward,  is  used  for  cooking, 
eating,  sleeping,  cleaning  fish  and  game  of  all  sorts.  They  are 
devoid  of  all  .sense  of  cleanliness  and  take  no  santary  precaution 
whatever  to  ward  off  disease.  In  one  village  where  we  stopped  to 
take  on  wood  we  found  the  dead  bodies  of  three  men  almo.st  en- 
tirely expo.sed  with  scarcely  any  dirt  upon  them  excepting  that 
which  thej-  had  accumulated  during  their  natural  lifetime  in  the 
absence  of  applied  .soap  and  w^ater.  A  more  filthy,  degraded, 
loathsome  set  of  creatures  it  would  be  hard  to  find. 

The  mortality  of  these  tribes  is  very  great  and  within  a  few- 
short  years  they  will  be  creatures  of  the  past  and  their  graveyards 
will  furnish  an  interesting  field  for  relic  hunters,  and  their  bones 
along  with  those  of  the  mammoth,  giant  buffalo,  and  iclithyo.sau- 
rus,  will  adonie  the  museums  of  the  world  while  their  spirits  con- 
tinue the  chase  in  the  "  happy  hunting  ground  "  beyond. 


PURCHASE  OF  ALASKA. 


This  little  volume  upon  Alaska  would  be  incomplete  without  a 
summary  of  the  history  of  its  purcha.se  and  a  statement  of  its  area 
and  extent. 

Czar  Nicholas  offered  to  give  Ru.ssian  America  to  the  United 
States  in  1844  and  45.  during  Polk's  admini.stration,  provided  our 
government  would  pay  the  cost  of  transfer  and  maintain  the  boun- 
dary line  at  45°  40'.  In  1S54  i^  was  offered  to  the  United  States 
and  again  in  1859,  when  $5,000,000  were  refused.  It  .seemed  to 
be  the  desire  of  the  Czar  to  place  it  beyond  the  power  of  England's 
acquiring  it  in  case  of  war  with  that  country.  During  the  war  of 
the  Rebellion,   our  government  greatl  .■    appreciated    the    moral 


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68  ("UIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 

support  given  us  by  llie  Czar  of  Russia  in  sending  fleets  to  the 
harbor  of  San  Francisco  and  New  York  at  a  time  when  France 
and  F^ngland  were  on  the  point  of  recognizing  the  government  of 
the  Confederate  States.  Hearing  of  the  desire  of  the  Czar  to  sell 
his  possessions  in  America,  and  appeciating  their  great  value, 
Secretary  of  State  Wm.  H.  Seward  felt  that  its  purchase  would 
serve  a  double  purpose;  it  would  please' the  Czar  and  secure  to  the 
Urited  States  a  valualMe  territory.  Accordingly  negotiations  were 
opened  in  February,  1867.  A  treaty  of  purchase  was  sent  to  the 
senate  March  30,  1867,  reported  April  g,  ratified  May  28,  and  pro- 
claimed by  the  president  June  20  of  the  same  year.  Charles  Sum- 
ner suggested  .  Uas/ca,  the  name  given  to  Captain  Cook  by  the 
natives.  The  price  paid  was  $7,200,000,  less  than  half  a  cent  an 
acre.  It  has  proved  a  profitable  investment  from  the  date  of  pur- 
chase, yielding  a  net  profit  of  8  per  cent,  for  the  first  five  years 
upon  the  price  paid.  The  salmon  industry  yielded  $7,500,000  in 
the  six  years  from  1884  to  i8go.  The  Treadwell  mine  alone  has 
added  more  than  the  purchase  price  to  the  wealth  of  the  world. 


AREA  AND  EXTENT. 


Alaska  proper  contains  an  area  of  580, 107  .square  miles;  the 
islands  of  Alexander  archipelago  31,205  .square  miles,  and  the 
Aleutian  islands  6,391  square  miles.  It  has  an  extent  of  over 
1,000  miles  from  north  to  .south,  and  the  i.sland  of  Attn,  of  the 
Aleutian  group,  is  2,000  miles  west  of  Sitka.  The  longitude  of 
Attu  is  as  many  degrees  west  of  San  Franci.sco  .ns  Eastport,  Maine, 
is  degrees  east.  The  sun  never  goes  down  upon  the  domain  of 
the  United  States. 


' !  4*' 


JUNEAU. 


Juneau,  the  metropolis  of  Alaska,  is  the  outfitting  point,  not 
only  for  the  great  niming  district  of  southeastern  Alaska,  but  for 
miners  on  their  way  to  the  Yukon  gold  fields.  The  past  year  has 
witnessed  a  great  improvement  in  the  town  and  Juneau  to-day  has 
the  appearance  of  a  progressive  city  with  fine  l)uildings,  substan- 
tial wharves,  electric  lights,  water  works,  hotels,  numerous  retail 
and   wholesale  outfitting   establishments.      It  is    the   headquar- 


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GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


69 


ters  of  several  steamboat  lines.  The  city  hall  and  courthouse 
stand  guard  over  all  on  the  crest  of  a  high  mound  seemingly 
formed  for  the  purpose.  From  the  deck  of  incoming  steamers  up 
Gastineau  Channel  the  view  is  a  pleasing  one,  the  townsite  alone 
being  open  to  criticism,  it  having  undoubtedly  been  formed  by 
slides  from  the  high  mountains  which  surround  it.  It  has  a  de- 
cided Alpine  appearance.  The  adjacent  mountains  retain  some 
snow  nearly  or  quite  the  whole  year  and  the  avalanches 
that  tear  down  their  rugged  sides  in  spring  form  a  spectacle 
that  well  repays  a  visit  to  this  enterprising  town.  I  spent 
some  time  trying  to  photograph  one  of  those  slides  but  was 
unsuccessful.  They  occur  dailj-,  and  at  night  their  rumb- 
lings will  often  awaken  one  from  a  sound  sleep  with  the  im- 
pression that  an  earthquake  is  shaking  the  foundation  of  the 
city.  Cold  but  not  .slumbering  glaciers  occupy  parts  of  this 
range,  one  running  almost  parallel  with  it,  meeting  the  ocean  at 
Taku  Inlet.  So  livelj'  does  it  move  oceanward  that  at  times  the 
waters  adjacent  to  ^uneau  are  filled  with  floating  bergs  to  such  an 
•^xtent  as  to  cause  the  greatest  watchfulness  on  the  part  of  nav- 
igators. Although  the  pass  through  which  the  Taku  glacier 
emerges  is  some  twenty  miles  from  Juneau,  I  have  seen  bergs  as 
large  as  a  business  block  floating  near  the  wharves.  The  lover  of 
the  alpenstock  can  here  find  real  glaciers  and  mountains  which  he 
could  ascend  unaided  to  heights  sufficient  to  break  his  neck  with- 
out the  assistance  of  accomplished  and  expen.sive  guides. 

Juneau  i.":  the  immediate  center  of  an  extensive  and  active  min- 
ing district.  It  was  founded  in  the  winter  of  1 880-81,  gold  hav- 
ing been  discovered  August  15,  1880,  by  Joseph  Juneau  and  Rich- 
ard Harris.  The  town  was  first  known  as  Harrisburg;  later  as 
Rockwell;  but  at  a  miners'  meeting  in  November,  1881,  it  was 
wisely  and  justly  re-christened  Juneau  in  honor  of  Joseph  Juneau. 
The  hills  and  streams  proved  so  rich  in  gold  that  miners  f'-om 
many  parts  of  Alaska  and  British  Cohunbia  hastened  to  this  re- 
gion, and  within  the  year  Juneau  became  a  flourishing  and  typical 
mining  town  with  that  uneasy,  venturesome  spirit  of  gambling 
prevalent  that  would  have  excited  the  admiration  of  a  forty-niner. 
Since  then  it  has  become  the  commercial  center  of  Alaska.  Cap- 
ital has  developed  many  mines  in  its  vicinity  and  the  past  year 
has  brought  more  money  there  than  ever  before.  The  coming 
year  will  undoubtedly  mark  an  epoch  in  the  history  of  mining  in 


if  I 


70 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


southern  Alaska.  The  business  men  are  shrewd  and  active  and 
keep  abreast  of  the  times.  Juneau  supports  three  weekly  papers, 
all  bright,  new.sy  .sheets  that  would  be  a  credit  to  any  city  having 
the  advantages  of  wire  and  train  connections  with  the  rest  of  the 
world.  They  are  always  well  filled  with  mining  and  general  news 
concerning  Alaska. 


I   I 


i'  / 


DOUGLASS  ISLAND. 


Upon  Dougla.ss  island,  two  miles  from  Juneau  and  cotuiected 
with  it  by  ferry,  the  famous  Treadwell  gold  mine  is  located.  It 
has  the  largest  quartz  mill  in  the  world.  The  ore  of  this  mine  is 
of  a  low  grade  but  free-milling,  the  average  yield  per  ton  being 
$3.40;  yet  the  net  profits  for  the  year  ending  May  15,  1894, 
amounted  to  $420,948.86. 

The  Mexican  mine,  .some  half  mile  below  the  Treadwell,  bids 
fair  to  become  quite  as  famous.  The  new  mill  just  completed  ou 
this  property  is  of  latest  design,  and  reflects  great  credit  upon  the 
.superintendent,  Mr.  Robert  J.  Duncan,  Jr.  Mr.  Duncan  is  also 
.superintendent  of  the  Treadwell.  The  ore  of  the  Mexican  is  of  a 
higher  grade  than  that  of  the  Treadwell. 


Hh 


DAWSON  CITY 


Dawson  City  is  at  the  junction  of  the  Klondyke  river  and  the 
Yukon.  The  new  gold  finds  lie  up  the  Klondyke  river  from  two 
to  fifty  miles,  and  the  recent  reports  are  that  there  is  very  little 
of  the  ground  up  this  river  that  does  not  have  the  gold-bearing 
strata.  Dawson  City  is  now,  and  probably  will  be,  the  head  of 
steamboat  navigation  on  the  Y'ukon. 


i!   < 

*i : 


GOLD  DUST. 


Gold  dust  and  nuggets  are  the  principal  mediums  of  exchange 
throughout  the  Yukon  basin,  but  little  money  being  in  circulation. 
Everybody  carries  gold-scales,  and  so  adept  does  one  become  in  a 
short  time  that  it  takes  but  little  longer  to  make  change  than 
with  coin.    If  a  haircut  is  needed,  the  gold  dust  is  weighed  out  — 


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GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


71 


seventy-five  cents;  if  a  glass  of  whisky,  fifty  cents,  and  so  on. 
Everybody  carries  a  l)uckskiti  sack.  The  estal)lished  value  of 
gold  dust  is  seventeen  dollars  per  ounce. 

Nuggets  of  one  and  two  ounces  are  not  unconitnon.  One  was 
found  in  Franklin  gulch  weighing  thirty  ounces.  The  gold  of  the 
different  gulches  is  readily  distinguishable,  some  being  of  a  light 
color,  worn  smooth  by  the  elements,  while  from  others  it  is  rough 
and  of  a  darker  hue. 

SAI,E  ON  BEDROCK. 


This  is  a  method  whereby  mining  claims  are  transferred  from 
one  to  another  with  the  agreement  to  pay  a  certain  consideration 
in  gold  dust,  the  gold  dust  to  be  taken  from  the  claim  thus  trans- 
ferred. This  is  known  as  sale  on  bedrock,  and  is  common  through- 
out the  Yukon  basin. 


MINERS'  LAWS. 


At  present  miners'  law  prevails,  and  it  is  probably  much  better 
adapted  to  the  country  in  its  present  condition  than  a  regularly 
constituted  judicial  .system.  There  are  no  long  terms  of  unneces- 
sary imprisonment,  no  corrupt  courts,  no  costly  prolonged  legal 
wrangles  to  be  decided,  perhaps  in  favor  of  the  wrong.  Speedy 
and  impartial  justice  is  dealt  cut  to  all  free  of  cost,  and  so  effect- 
ually that  no  cases  of  robbery  or  murder  are  on  record,  and  the 
utmost  good  will  and  faith  are  preserved  toward  all.  This  state 
of  affairs,  however,  will  not  last  long.  With  the  influx  to  be  ex- 
pected in  the  next  few  years,  things  niust  neces.sarily  change.  A 
special  judicial  district  court  with  unlimited  powers  should  be 
created,  thus  avoiding  the  expense  and  time  of  appeals  which 
would  necessarily  follow  a  court  of  limited  powers  and  jurisdic- 
tion. 


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■ 


MINING  REGULATIONS  OF  THE  YUKON. 


Following  are  the  Regulations  governing  placer  mining  along  the 
Yukon  river  and  its  trihul.iries  in  the  Northwest  Territories,  fixed  by  a 
recent  order-in-council  of  tlu-  Dominion  government: 

INTERPRETATION. 

"  Har  diggings"  shall  mean  any  part  of  a  river  over  which  the  water 
extends  when  the  water  is  in  its  flooded  state  and  which  is  not  covered  at 
low  water. 

Mines  on  benches  shall  be  known  as  "  bench  diggings,"  and  shall,  for 
the  purpose  of  defining  the  size  of  such  claims,  be  excepted  from  dry  dig- 
gings. 

"  Dry  diggings  "  shall  mean  any  mine  over  which  a  river  never  extends. 

"Miner"  shall  mean  a  male  or  female  over  the  age  of  eighteen,  but 
not  under  that  age. 

"Claim  "  shall  mean  the  personal  right  of  property  in  a  placer  mine  or 
diggings  during  the  time  for  which  the  grant  of  such  mine  or  diggings  is 
made. 

"Legal  post  "  shall  mean  a  stake  standing  not  less  than  four  feet  above 
the  ground  and  squared  on  four  sides  for  at  least  one  foot  from  the  top. 
The  sides  so  scpiared  shall  measure  at  least  four  inches  across  the  face.  It 
shall  also  mean  any  stump  or  tree  cut  off  or  squared  or  faced  to  the  above 
height  and  size. 

"  Close  season  "  shall  mean  the  period  of  the  year  during  which  placer 
mining  is  generally  suspended.  The  period  to  be  fixed  by  the  gold  com- 
missioner in  whose  district  the  claim  is  situated. 

"Locality  "  shall  mean  the  territory  along  a  river  ( tributary  of  the  Yu- 
kon river  )  and  its  affluents. 

"  Mineral  "  shall  include  all  minerals  whatsoever  other  than  coal. 

NATURE  AND  SIZE  OF  CLAIMS. 

1.  "  Bar  diggings,"  a  strip  of  land  loo  feet  wide  at  high  water  mark 
and  thence  extending  into  the  river  to  its  lowest  water  level. 

2.  The  sides  of  a  claim  for  bar  digging  shall  be  two  parallel  lines  run 
as  nearly  as  possible  at  right  angles  to  the  stream,  and  shall  be  marked  by 
four  legal  posts,  one  at  each  end  of  the  claim  at  or  about  the  edge  of  th.e 
water.  One  of  the  posts  at  high  water  mark  shall  be  legally  marked  with 
the  name  of  the  miner  and  the  date  upon  which  the  claim  was  staked. 

73 


74 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


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3.  Dry  diggings  shall  be  100  feet  square  and  shall  have  placed  at  each 
of  its  four  corners  a  legal  post,  upon  one  of  which  shall  be  legally  marked 
the  name  of  the  miner  and  the  date  upon  which  the  claim  was  staked. 

4.  Creek  and  river  claims  shall  be  500  feet  long,  measured  in  tlie  di- 
rection of  the  general  course  of  the  stream,  and  shall  pxtend  in  width  from 
base  to  base  of  the  hill  or  bench  on  each  side,  but  when  the  hills  or  benches 
are  less  than  100  feet  apart  the  claim  may  be  100  feet  in  depth.  The  sides 
of  the  claim  shall  be  two  parallel  lines  run  as  neaily  as  possible  at  right 
angles  to  the  stream.  The  sides  shall  be  marked  with  legal  posts  at  or 
about  the  edge  of  the  water  and  at  the  rear  boundaries  of  the  claim.  One 
ot  the  legal  posts  at  the  stream  shall  be  legibly  marked  with  the  name  of 
the  nuner  and  the  date  upon  which  the  claim  was  staked. 

,s.     Bench  claims  shall  be  100  feet  square. 

6.  In  defining  the  size  of  claims  they  shall  be  measured  horizontall}', 
irrespective  of  inequalities  on  the  surface  of  the  ground. 

7.  If  any  person  or  persons  shall  discover  a  new  mine  and  such  dis- 
covery shall  be  established  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  gold  commissioner,  a 
claim  for  bar  diggings  750  feet  in  length  may  be  granted. 

A  new  statum  of  auriferous  earth  or  gravel  situated  in  a  locality  where 
the  claims  are  abandoned  shall  for  this  purpose  be  deemed  a  new  mine, 
although  the  same  locality  si'  11  have  been  previously  worked  at  a  different 
level. 

8.  The  forms  of  application  for  a  grant  for  placer  mining  and  the 
grant  of  the  same  shall  be  those  contained  iti  forms  "  H  "  and  "I"  in  the 
■schedule  hereto. 

9.  A  clain:  shall  be  recorded  with  the  gold  commissioner  in  whose 
district  it  is  situated  within  three  days  after  the  location  thereof,  if  it  is 
located  within  ten  miles  of  the  commissioner's  office.  One  extra  day  sh^ll 
be  allowed  for  making  such  record  for  every  ten  miles  or  fraction  thereof. 

10.  In  the  event  of  the  absence  of  the  gold  commissioner  from  his 
office,  entrj'  by  a  claim  may  be  granted  by  any  person  whom  he  may 
appoiiic  to  paiform  his  duties  in  his  absence. 

11.  Entry  shall  not  be  granted  for  a  claim  whjch  has  not  been  staked 
by  the  applicant  in  person  in  the  manner  specified  in  these  regulations. 
An  affidavit  that  the  claim  was  stake<l  out  by  the  applicant  shall  be  em- 
bodied in  form  "H"  of  the  schedule  hereto. 

12.  An  entry  fee  of  J15  shall  be  charged  the  first  year,  and  an  annual 
fee  of  $100  for  each  of  the  foUov.lng  years.  Tliis  provision  shall  apply  to 
locations  for  which  entries  have  already  been  granted. 

13.  After  the  recording  of  a  claim  the  removal  of  any  post  by  the 
holder  thereof,  or  by  any  person  acting  in  his  behalf,  ior  the  purpose  of 
changing  the  boundaries  of  his  i;laim,  shall  act  as  a  forfeiture  of  the  claim. 

14.  The  entry  of  every  holder  of  a  grant  for  placer  mining  must  by 
renewed  and  his  receipt  relinquished  and  replaced  every  year,  the  entry 
fee  being  paid  each  time. 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


75 


15.  No  miner  shall  receive  a  grant  of  more  than  one  mining  claim  in 
the  same  locality,  but  the  same  miner  may  Mold  any  number  of  claims  by 
purchase,  and  any  number  of  miners  may  luiite  to  work  their  claims  in 
common  tipon  such  terms  as  they  may  arrange,  provided  such  agreement 
be  registered  with  the  gold  commissioner  and  a  fee  of  five  dollars  be  paid 
for  each  registration. 

16.  Any  miner  or  miners  may  sell,  mortgage  or  dispose  of  his  or  their 
claims,  provided  such  disposal  be  registered  wtth,  and  a  fee  of  two  dollars 
paid  to  the  gold  commissioner,  who  sliall  thereupon  give  the  assignee  a 
certificate  in  form  "  J  "  in  the  schedule  hereto. 

17.  Every  miner  shall,  during  the  continuance  of  his  grant,  have  the 
exclusive  right  of  entry  upon  his  own  claim,  for  the  miner-like  working 
thereof,  and  the  construction  of  a  residence  thereon,  and  shall  be  entitled 
exclusivel}'  to  all  the  proceeds  realized  therefrom;  but  he  shall  have  no 
surface  rij;hts  therein;  and  the  gold  commissioner  may  grant  to  the  holders 
of  adjacent  claims  such  right  of  entry  thereon  as  may  be  absolutely  neces- 
sary for  the  working  of  their  claims,  upon  such  terms  as  may  to  him  seem 
icasonable.  He  may  also  grant  permits  to  miners  to  cut  timber  thereon 
for  their  own  use,  upon  payment  of  the  dues  prescribed  by  the  regulations 
in  that  behalf. 

18.  Everj'  miner  shall  be  entitled  to  the  use  of  so  much  of  the  water 
naturally  flowing  through  or  past  his  claim,  and  not  already  lawfully  ap- 
propriated, as  shall,  in  the  opinion  of  the  gold  commissioner,  be  necetsa'"' 
for  the  due  working  thereof;  and  shall  be  entitled  to  drain  his  own  claim 
free  ol' charge. 

19.  A  claim  shall  be  deemed  to  be  abandoned  and  open  to  occupation 
and  entry  by  any  person  when  the  same  shall  have  remained  unworked  on 
working  days  by  the  grantee  thereof  or  by  some  person  on  his  behalf  for 
the  space  of  seventy-two  hours,  unless  sickness  or  other  reasonable  c.iuse 
be  shown  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  gold  commissioner,  or  unless  the  grantee 
is  absent  on  leave  given  by  the  commissioner,  and  the  gold  commission  _'r 
upon  obtaining  evidence  satisfactory  to  himself  that  this  provision  is  not 
being  complied  with  may  cancel  the  entry  given  for  a  claim. 

20.  If  the  land  upon  which  a  claim  has  been  located  is  not  the  prop- 
erty of  the  crown  it  will  he  necessary  for  the  person  who  applied  for  entry 
to  furnish  proof  that  he  has  acquired  from  the  owner  of  the  land  the  sur- 
face rights  before  entry  can  be  granted. 

21.  If  the  occupier  of  the  lands  has  not  received  a  patent  therefor,  the 
purchase  money  of  the  surface  rights  must  be  paid  to  the  crown,  and  a 
patent  of  the  surface  rights  will  issue  to  the  party  who  acquired  the  mining 
rights.  The  money  so  collected  will  either  be  refunded  to  the  occupier  of 
the  land,  when  he  is  entitled  to  a  patent  therefor,  or  will  be  credited  to  him 
on  account  of  payment  for  land. 

22.  Vv'Ven  the  partj'  obtaining  the  mining  rights  to  lands  cannot  make 
an  arrangement  w.th  the  owner  or  his  agent  or  the  occupant  thereof  for  the 
acquisition  of  his  surface  rights,  it  shall  be  lawful  for  him  to  give  notice  to 
the  owner  or  his  agent  or  the  occupier  to  appoint  an  arl  itrator  to  act  with 


?6 


GUIDE  TO  THE  VUKON 


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It  ■ 


■'■;»' 


another  arbitrator  named  by  him,  in  order  to  award  the  amount  of  com- 
pensation to  which  the  owner  or  occupant  shall  be  entitled.  The  notice 
mentioned  in  this  section  shall  be  according  to  a  form  to  be  obtained  upon 
application  from  the  gold  commissioner  for  the  district  in  which  the  lands 
in  question  lie,  and  shall,  when  practicable,  be  personally  served  on  such 
owner,  or  his  agent  if  known,  or  occupant;  and  after  reasonable  eflforts 
have  been  made  to  effect  personal  service,  without  success,  then  such  no- 
tice shall  be  served  by  leaving  at,  or  sending  by  registered  letter  to,  the  last 
place  of  abode  cf  the  owner,  agent  or  occupani.  Such  notice  shall  be 
served  upon  tl.v  owner  oi  agent  within  a  period  to  be  fixed  by  the  gold 
commissioner  before  the  expiration  of  the  time  limited  in  such  notice.  If 
the  proprietor  refuses  or  declines  to  appoint  an  arbitrator,  or  when,  fo."  any 
other  reason,  ni)  arbitrator  is  appointed  by  the  proprietor  in  the  time  lim- 
ited therefor  in  the  notice  provided  for  by  this  section,  the  gold  commis- 
sioner for  the  district  in  which  the  lands  in  question  lie,  sha'l,  on  being 
satisfied  by  affidavit  that  such  notice  has  come  to  the  knowledge  of  such 
owner,  agent  or  occupant,  or  that  such  owner,  agent  or  occupant  wilfully 
evades  the  service  of  such  notice,  or  cannot  be  found,  and  that  reasonable 
efforts  have  been  made  to  effect  such  service,  and  that  tlie  notice  was  left 
at  the  last  place  of  abode  of  such  owner,  agent  or  occupant,  appoint  an  ar- 
bitrator on  his  behalf. 

23.  (a.)  All  the  arbitrators  appointed  under  the  authority  of  these 
regulations  shall  be  sworn  oefore  a  justice  of  the  peace  to  the  impartial 
discharge  of  the  duties  assigned  to  them,  and  they  shall  forthwith  proceed 
to  estimate  the  reasonable  damages  which  the  owner  or  occupant  of  such 
lands,  according  to  their  .several  interests  therein,  shall  sustain  by  reason 
of  such  prospecting  and  mining  operations. 

(/>.)  In  estimating  such  damages,  the  arbitrators  shall  determine  the 
value  ui  the  land  irrespectively  of  any  enhancement  therefrom  from  the 
existence  of  minerals  therein. 

( c.)  In  case  such  arbitrators  cannot  agree,  thej'  may  select  a  third  ar- 
bitrator, and  when  the  two  arbitrators  cannot  agree  upon  a  third  arbitrator 
the  gold  cou)missioner  for  the  district  in  which  the  lands  in  question  lie 
shall  select  sucn  third  arbitrator. 

(</.)  The  award  of  any  two  such  arbitrators  made  in  writing  sliali  l)e 
final,  and  shall  be  filed  with  the  gold  commissioner  for  t''e  district  in  which 
the  lands  lie. 

In  any  cases  arising  for  which  no  provision  is  made  in  these  regulations, 
the  provisions  of  the  regulations  governing  the  disposal  of  mineral  lands 
other  Uikxi:  coal  lands,  approved  by  his  excellency  the  governor  in  council 
on  the  9th  01'  November,  1889,  shall  apply. 


11  'I 


G-'IDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


77 


Form  H.— Application  for  gra  -t  for  Placer  Mining   and  AJJidai'ii  of 

Applicant. 

I,  [or  we],  of  hereby  apply  under  the  Dominion 

Mining  Regulations,  for  a  grant  of  a  claim  for  placer  mining  as  defined  in 
the  said  regulations,  in  [Here  describe  locality], 

and  I  [or  we]  solemnly  swear: 

1.  That  I  [or  we]  have  discovered  therein  a  deposit  of  [here  name  the 
metal  or  mineral], 

2.  Tlidt  {  [<>  ■  wo]  am  [or  are]  to  the  best  of  my  [or  our]  knowledge 
and  bt'ie  ,  '  ut  dis'.overer  [or  discoverers]  of  the  said  deposit;  or 

3-  '^  '^  1  d  claim  was  previously  granted  to  [here  nr  me  the  last 
P"-antee],  but  ha i  renained  unworked  by  the  said  grantee  ire  not  less  than 

4,  That  I  [<.'•  we]  am  [or  are]  unav.rtre  that  the  land  is  other  than 
vacant  Dominic n  land. 

■   5.     That  I  [ui  wej  did,  on  the  day  of  mark  out  on  the 

ground  in  accordance  in  every  particular  with  the  provisions  of  the  mining 
regulations  for  the  Yukon  river  and  its  tributaries,  the  claim  for  which  I 
[or  we]  make  this  application,  and  that  in  so  doing  I  [or  we]  make  this 
application,  and  that  in  so  doing  I  [or  we]  did  not  encroach  on  anv  other 
claim  or  mining  location  previously  laid  out  by  any  other  person. 

6.  That  the  said  claim  contains,  as  nearly  as  I  (or  we)  could  measure 
or  estimate,  an  area  of  square  feet,  and  that  the  description  (and 
sketch,  if  any),  of  this  date  hei-eto  attached,  signed  by  me  (or  us;  sets  (or 
set  )  forth  in  detail,  to  the  best  of  my  (or  our)  knowled.-re  and  ability,  its 
position,  form  end  dimei     ••!,   . 

7.  That  I  (or  we;  •  tl  •  v'ns  application  in  good  faith,  to  acquire  the 
claim  for  the  sole  purr-  H  1  ;ni<.<ag,  to  be  prosecuted  by  myself  (or  us)  or 
by  myself  and  aasociatts,  ux  "/;  \.  _    (or  our)  assigns. 

Sworn  before  me  u-  this  day  of  iS 

(Signature). 


■■\ 


I 


No. 


Form  I. — (,'rant  for  Placer  Alining. 
Department  of  thk  I.nterior. 

Agency,  \i 

the  payment  of  five  dollars,  being  the  fet-  required 


Oominion  Mining  Regulations,  clauses  lour  and 

,  accompanying  his  (or  their)  applica- 

,  for  a  mining  claim  in  (here  insert  descrip- 


In  consideration  . 
by  the  provisions  c(   r. 
twenty,  by  (A    R. )  o' 
tion  No.  dated  18 

tion  of  locality). 

The  Minister  of  the  Interior  hereby  grants  to  the  said  (A.  B.)        , 

ia:  ;!■  '  term  of  one  year  from  the  date  hereof,  the  exclusive  right  of  entrv 
ur:  p';  'he  claim  (here  describe  in  detail  the  claim  granted)  for  the 

miner-like  working  thereof  and  the  construction   of  a  residence  thereon, 
and  the  exclusive  right  to  all  the  proceeds  realized  therefrom. 


78 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


I'.-:  >>, 


The  said  (A.  B. )  shall  be  entitled  to  the  use  of  so  much  of 

the  water  naturally  flowing  through  or  past  his  (or  their)  claim,  and  not 
already  lawfully  appropriated,  as  shall  be  necessary  for  the  due  working 
thereof,  and  to  drain  his  (or  their)  claim,  free  of  charge. 

This  grant  does  not  convey  to  the  said  (A.  B.)  any  surface  rights 
in  the  said  claim,  or  any  right  of  ownership  in  the  soil  covered  by  the  said 
claim;  and  the  said  grant  shall  lapse  and  he  '  '♦'•^ited  unless  the  claim  is 
continuousl}'  and  in  good  faith  worked  by  the  o    i  \.  B.)       or  liis  (or 

theirj  associates. 

The  rights  hereby  granted  are  those  laid  down  u  ..le  aforesaid  mining 
regulations,  and  no  more,  and  are  subject  to  all  the  provisions  of  said  reg- 
ulations, whether  the  same  are  expressed  herein  or  not. 

Gold  Commissioner. 


p.  if- 


V 


m 


Form  J — Certificate  of  the  Assignment  of  a  Placer  Mining  Claim. 
No.  Department  of  the  Intekior, 

Agency,  i8 

This  is  to  certify  that  (.B.C.)  of  has  (or  have) 

filed  an  assignment  in  due  form  dated  i8        ,  and  accotnpauied  by  a 

registratioi'  fee  of  two  dollars,  of  the  grant  to  (A.  B.)  of 

of  t'\e  right  to  mine  in  (insert  description  of  claim) 

for  one  year  '  rom  the  i8 

This  certilicate  entitles  the  said  (B.C.)  to  all  the  rights 

and  privileges  of  the  said  (A.  B.)  in  respect  of  the  claim 

assigned,  that  is  to  say,  to  the  exclusive  right  of  entry  upon  the  said  claim 
for  the  miner-like  working  thereof  and  the  construction  of  a  residence 
thereon,  and  the  exclusive  right  to  all  the  proci'eds  realized  therefrom,  for 
the  remaining  portion  of  the  year  for  which  the  said  claim  was  granjed  to 
the  said  (A.  B.)  ,  that  is  tosay,  until  the  day  of 

IS 

The  said  (B.C.)  shall  be  entitled  to  the  use  of  so  much 

of  the  water  naturally  flowing  through  or  past  his  (or  their)  claim  and  not 
already  lawfully  appropriated,  as  shall  be  necessary  for  the  due  working 
thereof,  and  to  drain  the  claim  free  of  charge. 

This  grant  does  not  convey  to  the  said  (B.  C.)  any  surface 

rights  in  the  said  claim,  or  any  right  of  ownership  in  the  soil  covered  by 
the. said  claim;  and  the  said  grant  shall  lapse  and  be  forfeited  unless  the 
claim  is  continuously,  and  in  good  faith,  worked  by  the  said  (B.  C.)  or 
his  (or  their)  associates. 

The  rights  hereby  granted  are  those  laid  down  in  the  Dominion  Mining 
Regulations,  and  no  more,  and  are  subject  to  all  the  provisions  of  the  said 
regulations,  whether  the  same  are  expressed  herein  or  not. 

Gold  Commissioner, 


EXTRACTS  FROM  MR.  OGII^VIE'S  REPORTS  TO  THE  DOMINION 

GOVERNMENT. 


ining 
said 


William  Ogilvie,  of  the  Department  of  the  Interior,  in  his  report  to  the 
Surveyor-General  of  Canada,  dated  November  6th,  1896,  says  the  name  of 
Klondak,  Klondyke,  or  Clondyke,  as  it  is  variously  spelled,  is  "a  mispro- 
nunciation of  the  Indian  word  or  words  Thron-dak  or  Duick,  which  means 
plenty  of  fish,  from  the  fact  that  it  is  a  famous  salmon  stream.  It  is 
marked  Tondack  on  old  maps.  It  joins  the  Yukon  from  the  east  -•■  few- 
miles  above  the  site  of  Fort  Reliance. 

Concerning  the  discovery  of  gold  on  this  stream,  he  says: — The  dis- 
covery, I  beli(.-ve,  was  due  to  the  reports  of  Indians.  A  white  man  named 
G.  W.  Carmach,  who  worked  with  me  in  18H7,  was  the  first  to  take  advan- 
tage of  the  rumors  and  located  a  claim  on  the  first  branch,  which  was 
named  by  the  miners  Bonanza  Creek.  Carmach  located  here  late  in 
August,  but  had  to  cut  some  l<3gs  for  the  mill  here  to  get  a  few  pounds  of 
provisions  to  enable  him  to  begin  work  on  his  claim,  the  fishing  at  Klon- 
dak having  totally  failed  him.  He  returned  with  a  few  week's  provisions 
for  himself,  his  wife  and  brother-in-law  (Indians),  and  another  Indian  in 
the  last  days  of  August  and  immediately  set  about  working  his  claim.  As 
he  was  very  short  of  appliances  he  could  only  put  together  a  rather  de- 
fective apparatus  to  wash  the  gravel  with.  The  gravel  itself  he  had  to 
carry  in  a  box  on  his  back  from  30  to  100  feet.  Notwithstanding  this  the 
three  men  working  very  irregularly  washed  out  $1,200  in  eight  tl  ,s,  and 
Carmach  asserts  with  reason  that  had  lie  had  proper  facilities  it  could  have 
been  done  in  two  days,  besides  having  several  hundred  dollars  more  gold, 
which  was  lost  on  the  tailings  through  defective  apparatus.  On  the  same 
creek  two  men  rocked  out  $75  in  about  two  hours,  and  it  is  asserted  that 
two  men  in  the  same  creek  took  out  $4,008  in  two  days  with  only  two 
lengths  of  sluice  boxes.  This  last  is  doubted,  but  Mr.  Leduc  assures  me  he 
weighed  that  much  gold  for  them,  but  is  not  positive  where  they  got  it. 
They  were  newcomers  and  had  not  done  much  in  the  country,  so  the  prob- 
abilities are  they  got  it  on  Bonanza  Creek.  A  branch  of  Uonaiiza,  named 
Eldorado,  has  prospected  magnificently,  and  another  branch  named  Tilly 
Creek  has  prospected  well;  in  all  there  are  some  four  or  five  branches  to 
Bonanza  Creek  which  have  given  good  prospects.  There  are  about  170 
claims  staked  on  the  main  creek  and  the  branches  are  good  for  about  as 
many  more,  aggregating  say  350  claims,  which  will  require  over  i,ck)o  men 
to  work  properly. 

A  few  miles  further  up  Bear  Creek  enters  Klondyke,  and  it  has  been 
prospected  and  located  on.  Compared  with  Bonanza  it  is  small  and  will 
not  afford  more  than  20  or  30  claims,  it  is  said. 

.\bout  1 2  miles  above  the  mouth  of  Gold  Bottom  Creek  joins  Klondyke 
and  on  it  and  a  branch  named  Hunker  Creek  after  the  discoverv  verv  rich 


i! 


ler. 


79 


80 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


1   1 


•■'ji 


ground  has  been  found.  One  man  showed  me  $22.75  ''^  took  out  in  a  few 
hours  on  Hunker  Creek,  with  a  gold  pan  prospecting  his  claim  on  the  sur- 
face, taking  out  a  panful  here  and  there  as  fancy  suggested.  On  Gold  Bot- 
tom Creek  and  branches  there  will  probably  be  two  or  three  hundred 
claims.  The  Indians  have  reported  another  creek  much  farther  up,  which 
they  call  Too  Much  Gold  Creek,  on  which  the  gold  is  so  plentiful  that  as 
the  miners  say  in  joke,  '"You  have  to  mix  gravel  with  it  to  sluice  it."  Up 
to  date  nothing  definite  has  been  heard  from  this  creek. 

From  all  this  we  may,  I  think,  infer  that  we  have  here  a  district  that 
will  give  1,000  claim  of  500  feet  in  length  each.  Now,  1,000  such  claims 
will  require  at  least  3,000  men  to  work  them  properly,  and  as  wages  for 
working  in  the  mines  are  from  $8  to  |io  per  day,  without  board,  we  have 
every  reason  to  assume  that  this  part  of  our  territor}'  will  in  a  year  or  two 
contain  10,000  souls  at  least,  for  the  news  has  gone  out  to  the  coast  and  an 
unprecedented  influx  is  expected  next  spring.  And  this  is  not  all,  for  a 
large  creek  called  Indian  creek  joins  the  Yukon  about  midway  betwee'n 
Klondyke  and  Stewart  river,  and  all  along  this  creek  good  pay  has  been 
found.  All  that  has  stood  in  the  way  of  working  it  heretofore  has  been  the 
scarcity  of  provisions  and  the  difficulty  of  getting  them  up  there  even  when 
here.  Indian  creek  is  quite  a  large  stream,  and  it  is  probable  it  w'll  yield 
500  or  600  claims.  Farther  south  yet  lies  the  head  of  several  branches  of 
Stewart  river,  on  which  some  prospecting  has  been  d'  ie  this  summer  and 
good  indications  found,  but  the  want  of  provisions  prevented  development. 
Nc.  '  :•■''>  '  has  been  found  in  several  of  the  streams  adjoining  Fell}'  river, 
and  alt-o  along  the  Hootalinqua.  In  the  line  of  these  finds  further  south  is 
the  Cassiar  gold  field  in  British  Columbia,  so  that  the  presumption  i.s  that 
we  have  in  our  territory  along  the  easterly  watershed  of  the  Yukon  a  gold 
bearing  belt  of  indefinite  width  and  upwards  of  three  hundred  miles  long, 
exclusive  of  the  British  Columbia  jiart  of  it.  On  the  easterly  side  of  the 
Yukon  prospecting  has  been  done  on  a  creek  a  short  distance  above  Selkirk 
with  a  fair  amount  of  success,  and  on  a  large  creek  some  30  or  40  miles  be- 
low Selkirk  fair  prospects  have  been  found,  but  as  before  remarked  the 
difficulty  of  getting  supplies  here  prevents  any  extended  prospecting. 

Dalton  informed  me  he  has  found  good  j)rospects  on  a  small  creek 
nearlj'  midway  between  the  coast  range  and  Selkirk  on  his  route.  His  man 
showed  me  some  coarse  gold,  about  a  dollar's  worth,  he  found  on  the  head 
of  a  branch  of  the  Aetsek  river,  near  the  head  of  Chilkat  Inlet,  which  is  of 
course  inside  the  summit  of  the  coast  range  and  of  course  in  our  territory. 
From  this  you  will  gather  that  we  have  a  very  large  area  all  more  or  less 
gold  bearing  and  will  all  3-et  be  worked. 

Good  quartz  has  been  found  in  place  just  across  the  line  on  Davis 
creek  (sie  my  map  of  the  41st  sent  you),  but  of  what  extent  is  unknown,  as 
it  is  in  the  bed  of  the  creek  and  covered  with  gravel.  Good  quartz  is  also 
reported  on  the  hills  around  Bonanza  creek,  but  of  this  I  will  be  able  to 
speak  more  fully  after  my  proposed  survey.  It  is  pretty  certain  from  in- 
formation I  have  got  from  prospectors,  that  all  or  nearly  all  of  the  north- 
erly branch  of  White  river  is  on  our  side  of  the  line,  and  copper  is  found  on 
it,  but  more  abundantly  on  the  southerly  branch  of  which  a  great  deal  of  it 


) 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


81 


1 


is  in  our  territory  also,  so  it  is  probable  we  have  tliat  metal  too.  I  liave 
seen  here  several  lumps  of  native  copper  brought  by  the  natives  from  White 
river,  but  just  from  what  part  is  uncertain.  1  have  also  seen  a  specimen  of 
silver  ore  said  to  have  been  picked  up  in  a  creek  flowing  into  Bennett  Lake, 
about  14  miles  down  it  on  the  east  .side. 

Before  closing  I  may  say  that  every  report  that  comes  in  from  Bonanza 
creek  is  more  encouraging  than  the  last.  Prospecting  has  only  begun,  and 
lip  to  the  date  of  mailing,  November  22d,  very  rich  prospects  have  been 
found  on  the  few  claims  prospected  on.  From  one  dollar  to  the  pan  of  dirt 
uj)  to  $12  are  reported  and  no  bedrock  found  j-et.  This  means  from  $[,000 
to  $12,000  per  day  per  man  sluicing.  The  excitement  is  intense,  but  at  this 
season  of  the  year  it  is  naturally  very  local. 

Writing  on  December  9,  1896,  Mr.  Ogilvie  said: 

Since  my  last  the  prospects  on  Bonanza  creek  and  tributaries  are  in- 
creasing in  richness  and  extent,  until  now  it  is  certain  that  millions  will  be 
taken  out  of  the  district  in  the  next  few  years.  On  some  of  the  claims 
prospected  the  pay  dirt  is  of  great  extent  and  very  rich.  One  man  told  me 
yesterday  that  he  washed  out  a  single  pan  of  dirt  on  one  of  the  claims  on 
Bonanza  and  found  $14.25  in  it.  Of  course  that  may  bt  an  exceptionally 
rich  pan,  but  $5  to  $7  per  pan  is  the  average  on  that  claim,  it  is  reported, 
with  five  feet  pay  dirt  and  the  width  yet  undertermined,  but  is  known  to 
be  thirty  feet;  even  at  that  figure,  the  result  at  nine  or  ten  pans  to  the 
cubic  foot  and  five  hundred  feet  long  is  nearly  $4,000,000  at  ifs  per  pan. 
One-fourth  of  this  would  be  enormous. 

Another  claim  has  been  prospected  to  such  an  extent  that  it  is  known 
there  is  about  five  feet  pay  dirt,  averaging  $2  per  pan,  and  not  less  than 
thirty  feet.  Enough  j)rospecting  has  been  done  to  show  that  there  are  at 
least  fifteen  miles  of  this  extraordinary  richness,  and  the  indications  are 
that  we  will  have  three  or  four  times  that  extent,  if  not  all  equal  to  the 
above,  at  least  very  rich. 

On  January  11,  1897,  he  wrote: 

The  reports  from  the  Klondyke  region  are  still  very  encouraging;  so 
much  so  that  all  the  other  creeks  around  are  practically  abandoned,  especi- 
ally those  on  the  head  of  Forty-Mile,  in  American  territory,  and  nearly  one 
hundred  men  h;ive  made  their  way  up  from  Circle  City,  hauling  their  sleds 
themselves  many  of  them.  Those  who  cannot  get  their  claims  are  buying 
in  on  those  already  located.*  Men  cannot  be  got  to  work  for  love  or  money, 
and  development  is  consequently  slow.  One  and  a  half  dollars  per  hour  is 
the  wages  paid  the  few  men  who  have  to  work  for  hire  and  work  as  many 
hours  as  they  like.  Some  of  the  claims  are  so  rich  that  every  night  a  few 
pans  of  dirt  suffices  to  pay  the  hired  help  when  there  is  any.  As  high  as 
$204  has  been  reported  to  a  single  oaii,  but  this  is  not  generally  credited. 
Claim  owners  are  now  very  reticent  about  what  they  get,  so  you  can  hardl)' 
credit  anything  you  hear;  but  one  thing  is  certain,  we  have  one  of  the 
richest  mining  areas  ever  found,  with  a  fair  prospect  that  we  have  not  yet 
discovered  its  limits. 


82 


GUIDE  TO  THEjYUXON 


I 


Miller  and  Glacier  creeks,  on  the  head  of  Sixty-Mile  river,  which  my 
survey  of  tVe  141st  meridian  determined  to  be  in  Canada,  were  thought  to 
be  very  rich,  but  they  are  poor  both  in  (juality  and  quantity  compared  with 
Klondyke.  Chicken  creek,  at  the  head  of  Forty-Mile,  in  Alaska,  discov- 
ered a  year  ago,  and  rated  very  high,  is  to-day  practically  abandoned. 

January  21,  1897, — There  are  applications  in  for  about  380  acres  of  land 
on  the  flat  north  of  the  Klondyke,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Yukon,  while  all 
the  extent  of  land  available  for  use  on  it  is  about  200  acres.  Jo.seph  Leduc, 
who  applied  for  160,  has  only  about  no  available  for  use  in  building  on,  the 
rest  being  steep  hill-side,  and  the  most  of  the  flat  is  a  moss-covered  swamp. 
He  had  laid  out  atid  disposed  of  a  few  lots  for  building  on  in  it,  making  his 
streets  only  50  feet  wide,  and  the  main  streets  along  the  river  even  less,  the 
builders  going  often  close  to  the  bank  for  convenience  in  getting  water; 
but  I  stopped  all  that,  and  have  the  river  front  at  least  66  feet  wide,  in 
most  places  much  more.  All  streets  parallel  to  the  river  are  66  feet,  and 
all  at  right  angles  to  those  I  have  left  at  50,  as  Laduc  had  them.  It  seems 
to  me  that  50  feet  is  wide  enough  in  this  country,  as  it  is  hardly  likely 
there  will  be  much  heavy  traffic  on  them.  Had  I  made  the  streets  running 
from  the  river  66  feet  wide  it  would  have  put  a  good  many  people  to  much 
inconvenience.  I  will  send  out  by  the  next  mail  a  sketch  showing  the 
position  of  all  the  applications  so  far.  The  American  government  has 
given  a  contract  for  four  mails  this  winter  to  Circle  City,  at  |i,7oo  each 
mail,  in  and  out.     The  mail  carriers  will  take  out  letters  at  $1  each. 

January  22,  1897. — A  quartz  lode  showing  free  gold  in  paying  quantities 
has  been  located  on  one  of  the  creeks,  but  I  cannot  yet  send  particulars. 
I  am  confident,  from  the  nature  of  the  gold  found  in  the  creeks,  that  many 
more  of  them,  and  rich,  too,  will  be  found. 

January  23d. — I  liave  just  heard  from  a  reliable  source  that  the  quartz 
mentioned  above  is  rich,  as  it  tested  over  Jioo  to  the  ton.  The  lode  ap- 
pears to  run  from  three  to  eight  feet  in  thickness  and  is  about  nineteen 
miles  from  the  Yukon  river.  I  will  likely  be  called  on  to  survey  it  and  will 
be  able  to  report  fully. 

Placer  prospects  continue  more  and  more  encouraging  and  extraordi- 
nary. It  is  beyond  doubt  that  three  pans  of  different  claims  on  Eldorado 
turned  out  $204,  ^212  and  $216,  but  it  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  there 
were  only  three  such  pans,  though  there  are  many  running  from  $ioto|50, 

1  have  just  received  a  petition  from  the  mtners  to  attend  to  the  survey 
of  their  claims,  they  doing  all  the  work  and  boarding  and  lodging  me.  I 
will  begin  at  it  in  about  ten  days,  and  it  will  likely  take  me  upwards  of 
two  months.  I  am  glad  to  have  the  opportunity  of  doing  it,  for  1  think  I 
can  considerably,  if  not  altogether,  straighten  out  the  tangle  there  is  there. 


George  M.  Dawson,  C.  M.  G.,  describes  the  Canadian  Yukon  as  bounded 
to  the  south  by  the  northern  limit  of  the  province  of  British  Columbia 
(lat.  60°),  to  the  west  by  the  eastern  line  of  the  United  States  territory  of 
Alaska;  to  the  east  by  the  Rocky  Mountain  ranges  and  the  136th  meridian; 


GUIDE  TO  THE  YUKON 


83 


ami  to  the  north  by  the  Arctic  ocean.  The  district,  as  above  defined,  has 
a  total  area  of  approximately  192,0(10  square  miles,  of  which,  according  to 
the  most  recent  information,  150,768  square  miles  is  included  in  the  water- 
shed of  the  Yukon.  "The  superficial  extent  of  the  district  may  perhaps 
be  best  realized  when  it  is  realized  when  it  is  stated  that  it  is  nearly  eciual 
to  that  of  France,  greater  than  the  United  Kingdom  by  71,000  miles,  ten 
times  the  area  of  the  province  of  Nova  Scotia,  and  nearly  three  tinus  ihrit 
of  the  New  England  states." 

Whether  or  not  the  whole  of  this  vast  area  is  auriferous  cannot  now 
be  said,  but  there  is  reasen  to  hope  that  in  all  parts  of  it  paying  depositsof 
gold  and  silver  may  be  found.  Suflicient  is  already  known,  although  only 
a  very  stnall  part  of  the  district  has  been  prospected,  to  rank  the  Yukon  as 
among  the  greatest  placer  gold  fields  that  h;ive  ever  been  discovered. 

Gold  was  first  discovered  in  the  Yukon  basin  in  1881,  when  a  party 
went  up  the  Big  Salmon  river,  a  tributary  of  the  Lewis,  for  a  distance  of 
two  hundred  miles  and  found  gold  on  all  its  bars,  many  of  them  paying 
very  well.  During  the  next  few  years  some  mining  was  done  on  the  Hoot- 
alinqua,  which  flows  out  of  Teslin  lake  and  into  the  Yukon.  In  1886  gold 
was  dug  out  of  the  Cassiar  bar  on  the  .Stewart  river  in  consideral)le 
(juantities.  Since  then  gold  has  been  found  on  Forty  Mile  creek,  .Sixty 
Mile  creek.  Miller  creek.  Glacier  creek,  Birch  creek,  and  last,  but  by  no 
means  least,  the  creeks  tributary  to  the  Klondyke. 

Forty  Mile  creek  is  for  the  most  part  in  .\laska,  that  is  in  United  States 
territory;  the  head  waters  of  .Sixty  Milp  creek  are  also  in  Alaska.  Miller, 
Glacier  and  Hirch  creeks  were  once  thought  to  be  in  .Maska,  but  are  now 
known  to  be  in  Canada,  and  Stewart  river  and  the  wonderfully  rich  Klon- 
dyke are  wholly  in  Canadian  territory'.  The  latter  flow  into  the  Yukon 
from  the  eastward,  and  the  whole  of  the  Lewis,  Big  Salmon  and  Hootalin- 
cjua  rivers  are  in  Canada. 

The  Klondyke  enters  the  Yukon  near  the  64th  parallel  of  north  lat- 
itude. As  yet  no  paying  deposits  of  gold  have  been  found  in  the  main 
river  itself,  the  rich  placers,  which  have  excited  attention  all  over  the 
world,  being  upon  its  tributaries  which  enter  it  from  the  south. 

THE  LATEST  ROUTES. 

Still  anotlier  route  is  from  the  head  of  Taku  inlet,  a  little  south  of  Ju- 
neau, thence  overland  by  the  valley  of  the  Taku  river  to  Lake  Teslin.  The 
distance  to  Lake  Teslin  by  this  route  is  approximately  the  same  as  via  the 
Slickeen  river.  To  Klondyke,  might  be  somewhat  shorter,  according  to 
the  point  at  which  the  trail  will  strike  the  lake. 

THE  WHITE  PASS  OPENED  UP. 


led 

Ibia 

of 

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The  White  Pass  route  starts  from  Skagway  bay,  which  is  five  miles 
below  Dyea,  the  head  of  Lynn  canal.  The  bay  is  a  fine  natural  harbor 
with  good  anchorage  for  vessels  of  any  size.  The  largest  ocean  vessels  can 
steam  directly  into  this  bay.  From  the  harbor  the  trail  follows  the  Skag- 
way river  to  its  head,  which  is  near  the  summit  of  the  pass,  a  distance  of 


M 


GUIDE  TO  THK  YUKON 


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Vi 

I 


16  inileH.  The  first  four  miles  are  in  the  bed  of  the  river  and  the  ascent  is 
gradual.  At  four  miles  the  canyon  is  reached,  and  here  the  route  becomes 
Tnore  difficult.  For  seven  miles  the  trail  works  its  way  aloni^  the  mountain 
side,  rising  steadily  for  almost  the  entire  distance.  This  is  the  only  hard 
part  of  the  route.  The  next  three  mijes  is  a  gentle  rise,  and  they  carry  the 
trail  to  the  summit,  an  elevation  of  2,6(x>  feet  above  the  sea  level.  The 
country  here  broadens  out  into  a  vallej'  five  miles  wide,  having  a  gtMitle 
slope  to  the  east.  In  the  twenty  miles  between  the  summit  and  Windy 
Arm,  on  Tagisii  lake,  the  total  descent  is  only  340  feet.  From  the  summit 
valleys  also  extend  to  Lindeman  lake  and  Taku  arm  011  Tagish  lake. 

At  this  date,  July  20th,  the  trail  has  been  cut  through  to  the  summit, 
and  work  is  steadily  in  progress  eastward.  A  trail  has  been  blazed  through 
to  Taku  Arm  on  Tagish  lake,  and  can  be  used  for  pack  animals  now.  In 
fact,  .several  trains  are  prepariukf  to  start  over  the  trail,  and  a  large  con- 
signment of  horses  has  been  sent  up  to  be  put  on  the  regular  transportation 
business  over  this  route,  which  is  now  open  for  business. 

The  final  location  of  the  trail  from  the  summit  to  the  lake  has  not  been 
decided  upon,  as  the  company  making  it  are  seeking  for  the  easiest  route, 
but  the  country  being  open  and  comixiratively  level,  after  the  summit  has 
been  passed,  the  lack  of  a  graded  trail  will  not  be  a  serious  impediment.  A 
liberal  allowance  of  time  would  be  two  days  for  a  pack  train  from  .Skagway 
bay  to  Tagish  lake,  of  which  not  more  than  six  or  eight  hours  would  be 
needed  to  reach  the  summit  from  salt  water. 

Skagway  Ray  and  the  trail  as  far  as  the  Summit  are  in  territory  over 
which  the  United  States  Government  now  exercises  jurisdiction,  but  the 
final  ownership  of  which  will  ilepend  upon  the  delimitation  of  the  boundry. 
Beyond  the  Summit  the  trail  is  all  in  Canadian  territory. 

For  winter  travel  the  trail  is  the  most  available.  The  average  snowfall 
on  the  Summit  is  not  more  than  four  feet,  and  the  company  expect  to  be 
able  to  keep  the  route  open  to  the  lake  all  winter  and  maintain  a  freight 
train  of  sleighs  on  the  river,  so  that  at  any  season  of  the  year  they  can 
carry  goods  and  passengers  from  Skagway  Bay  as  far  north  us  Dawson  City, 
at  the  mouih  of  the  Klondyke 


^ii 


THE  CHILKOOT  ROUTE. 

The  Chilkoot  route  starts  from  Dyea  or  Ty-a,  at  the  extreme  northern 
end  of  Chilkoot  branch  of  Lynn  Canal.  There  is  a  trading  post  here.  Dyea 
is  accessible  to  large  ocean  going  steamers.  Like  Skagway  Bay  it  is  in  ter- 
ritory over  which  the  United  States  at  present  exercises  jurisdiction. 

For  six  miles  from  Dyea  the  route  lies  up  a  river  valley,  the  stream  be- 
ing navigable  for  canoes  in  the  summer.  The  canyon  is  then  reached,  and 
here  begins  a  sharp  ascent  to  Sheep  Camp.  From  Sheep  Camp  the  trail 
extends  for  eight  miles  up  the  rugged  sides  of  the  mountain,  and  is  im- 
passable for  horses.  From  the  summit  to  Lake  Lindeman,  nine  miles, 
there  is  an  easy  descent,  that  is  easilj'  traversed  whe.i  the  snow  is  on  the 
ground,  but  is  very  rough  in  the  summer  season.  Thr.  total  distance  from 
Dyea  to  Lake  Lindeman  is  twenty-seven  miles.    The   lake   is  five  miles 


GUIDlv  TO  TIIK  YUKON 


86 


wide,  and  at  its  foot  a  sliort  ijortaj^c  is  necessary.  Lake  Heiiiu'lt  is  reai-lieil 
at  about  a  mile,  and  is  twenty-four  miles  loii^.  l"roni  this  point  the  route 
is  by  water  down  the  Lewis  river,  bcinjj  the  same  as  that  at  present  taken 
from  Tagish  lake  by  the  British  Yukon  Company's  route. 

THH  vSTlCKREN  ROTTR. 

The  Stickeen  route,  wlieti  opened,  will  have  the  advantage  of  being 
wholly  in  Hritish  territory,  for  although  the  month  of  the  river  is  in  United 
.States  territory,  Hritisli  subjeets  have  the  same  right  to  navigate  it  as 
American  citizens,  (loods  and  passengers  intended  for  this  route  would 
have  to  be  transshipped  from  ocean  going  steatners  to  river  steamers  at 
I'ort  Wrangel,  or  some  other  point  near  the  mouth  of  the  Stickeen.  Of  the 
river  itself  Dr.  Dawson  says:  "  It  is  navigable  for  stern-wheel  steamers  of 
liglit  draft  and  good  |)ower  to  (ilenora,  [26  miles  from  Rothsay  I'oint  at  its 
mouth,  and  under  favorable  circumstances  to  Telegraph  creek,  twelve  miles 
farther.  The  current  is  swift,  but  there  are  no  rapids  properly  so-called, 
'"tern-wheel  steamers  for  the  navigation  of  the  Stickeen  slioidd  have  good 
engine  power,  and  should  not  draw  more  than  four  feet  of  water  when 
loaded.  The  river  usually  opens  I'or  navigation  between  Aj)ril  2(ith  and 
May  1st.  The  river  generally  freezes  over  bef(n-e  the  end  of  November, 
althouv;h  ice  runs  somewhat  earlier.  On  the  low  lands  there  is  good  graz- 
ing for  horses  and  cattle  from  April  20th  to  about  December  ist." 

The  distance  from  the  Stickeen  at  Telegraph  creek  to  Teslin  lake  the 
source  of  the  Hootaliniiua  river  is  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles.  The 
trail  now  in  use  is  considerably  longer  than  this,  but  exploratory  surveys 
are  in  progress,  and  it  is  confidently  believed  that  a  nearly  direct  route  will 
be  found,  over  comparatively  level  country.  A  coniiiany  has  been  incopo- 
rated  to  build  a  railway  over  this  portion  of  the  route.  Traffic  going  by 
way  of  Teslin  lake  would  reach  the  main  Yukon  by  way  of  Ilootalintiua 
river,  above  referred  to. 

OTHER  ROUTES. 

The  Taku  route  has  not  been  opened,  or  even  surveyed.  A  conipany 
has  been  incorporated  to  build  a  railway  by  it  to  Teslin  lake.  Taku  inlet 
is  an  e.xtensive  harbor,  .somewhat  open  to  southwest  winds,  but  would  serve 
very  well  for  the  terminus  of  a  route  into  the  interior. 

Other  overland  routes  by  which  the  Yukon  can  be  reacheil  are  the 
Chilkat  pass,  the  trail  to  which  leaves  tide  water  near  the  beginning  of  the 
Chilkoot  and  White  pass  routes.  It  is  a  difficult  route  and  is  not  used;  the 
Dalton  trail,  which  starts  from  the  same  point  and  ])asses  overland,  a  dis- 
tance approximately  four  hundred  miles  to  the  Yukon  waters;  anil  the 
route  via  Dea.se  lake,  the  Frances  and  I'elly  rivers.  I?oth  the  latter  are  easy 
lines.  Ultimately,  if  the  development  of  the  Yukon  warrants,  there  will 
be  no  difficulty  in  finding  an  e.-isy  ami  all  rail  route  from  the  head  of  some 
of  the  inlets  in  northern  lirilish  Columbia. 


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Purchased 

FR0M...(2M.i,.i.^..£^:::^A^. 

Pl>*  ce  of  PuRCHASE...m:.i^.'. J^:'>.:^ 

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